Getting the bull on bole bowls .

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Aug 26, 2005
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How hard is it to cut a hardwood bole off a tree? Could I use a good quality ordinary cross-cut saw ? The bole I saw was about twelve inches across close to the tree . Does this harm the tree? As it is about 40 degrees F here at night would the tree be dormant? Would this make it easier on the tree ?

My aim is to make a bowl . Is it hard to chisel out and shape bole wood? The grain must be screwy in there .
 
I have done some wood working with big knots like that and the grain is amazing, but I was cutting them into slabs not bowls. Will you be using a lathe? I dont think a chisel is going to work too well.
 
Ah the voice of experience . So a froe wouldn,t work ? Perhaps I would make trenchers instead of just one bowl . It may be an easier first project .

The question still remains . Can I remove them from the tree with a cross cut handsaw ?
 
The croscut will work, but as for the tree. thats quite a chunk out of it, its possible it would still grow,... I guess
And no, a froe wont work. I've only use them for wood chucks,(fire wood) so I dont think so, also the grain wont work in favor of the froe
 
Traditionally and in botany, the bole is the trunk of the tree between the ground and the first branches. That said, like Wade, I've done a lot of slab-work with burls/knots and it's always interesting! As far as making a bowl, is this a true burl, an outgrowth of the trunk of the tree or is it a healed branch wound? The broken off branches that heal over are very often hollow and just covered with bark so they don't make good bowls or cups since there'll be a hole in the bottom.

Burls, on the other hand make REALLY neat bowls and vessels, but the work I've done on them has been with a lathe. There's no reaon you couldn't do it with a chisel, it's just more work. (Lathes use chisels, it's just that the bowl spins and the chisel stays still.)

A couple good gouges would be invaluable. If you can get an adze for larger work or an inshave or scorp that much the better. Keep 'em sharp, find a good way to hold your wood solid and whack away!

As far as saving the tree, outgrowths can be removed and it's possible to keep the tree alive, but I wouldn't do it on a tree that MUST be protected. Get some pruner's wax or other tree wound protectant to put on the wound once you've removed the burl and hope for the best.

my $.02

J-
 
Burl it is . This tree must be protected . I thought because it is only on one side that the rest of the tree would be O;K; . Darn .
 
A saw is the tool of choice for removing a burl from the side of a tree. I'd say use a chainsaw for efficiency, especially on large burls. They can grow to several feet wide.

Drying the wood is one step I didn't see mentioned. It would be something you'd have to consider though.

Wood works more easily when it is green, wet, and fresh off the tree. Its moisture content fresh off the tree can be in the 50% or greater range. NW Coast Native wood sculptors/carvers sometimes drape wetted towels over their "in progress" totem poles overnight to keep the wood damp enough to carve/sculpt easily the next day.

Typical moisture content of wood furniture & products inside your house is likely in the 8-12% range. That is a considerable loss in moisture (and weight) from the green moisture content level. That moisture loss as it dries causes wood to shrink. You need to accomodate that movement to prevent checks, cracks, splitting, and buckling. Burls, being typically irregularly shaped make it harder to achieve an even drying rate for the whole of the piece to prevent splits, compared to the even surfaces of rectangular milled lumber.

As noted, gouges and chisels will work the burl into a bowl.

As for the survival of the tree, a contiguous filament of cambium from the roots to the leaves seems to be one of the minimal requirements. So unless removing the burl from the tree somehow circumscribed a ring of cambium from all the way around the tree, the tree would likely survive. However, opening the bark offers an entry point for insects, so tree wax would be in order to seal it up.

In Japan they venerate old trees and prop up the branches of some ancient ones with crutch-like supports to keep the sometimes half-rotted base of the tree from snapping off. It seems that as long as there was a thread of cambium (and sometimes it was very very narrow, like an inch or so wide is all) making a food path from the roots to the branches, it would keep the upper part of the tree viable.

If you go to Google images, you can find pics of bristlecone pine trees that also illustrate this. Much of the trunk of the tree may be bare wood. But there is a strip of bark connecting the roots to the branches.
 
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