gflex mix ratio 1.2:1 by weight

scott kozub

scott kozub

Joined
Jan 1, 2018
Messages
861
So I recently came across this link for Gflex.

https://www.westsystem.com/wp-content/uploads/G-flex-tds.pdf

I use a scale for mixing. I noticed the bottles seem to be depleting at a different rate. The chart above notes that when mixing by weight the ratio is 1.2 to 1. Nowhere in the packaging does it say this. Everywhere else I look I just see 1:1. Does anyone know if the 1.2:1 ratio is correct when mixing by weight? I'm surprised they don't make it more clear in the instructions.
 
Just mix it by volume - 1:1. buy two large hypodermic needles at a vetinary supply store and fill each needle, 1 with Part A and 1 with Part B. Tip each needle up and depress the plunger until all the air bubbles are gone - wipe of the ejected resin. Use a non-waxed paper cup for a mixing pot. Squirt a measured amount of part A in the cup. Example 5 ml. Squirt an equal amount of Part B (5 ml) into the same cup. Mix and apply. Since this allows you to accurately measure equal small amount of epoxy, you will not waste any and the ratio is always correct. Leave the unused epoxy in each syringe for next time.
 
uhhhhh whelp, I've been doing THAT wrong for years. Crap. I don't see which (hardener or resin) is the 1.2 by weight.
 
Yes. 1.2:1 ratio is correct by weight. I mix the same way as well. Also a little trick I’ve learned is to mix in the bottom of a beer can. No hard corners and it’s a perfect size for 2-3 knives worth of epoxy.
 
I just started mixing at the 1.2:1 ratio myself wirh Gflex, though I can not tell a difference from when I was mixing 1:1 by weight.
 
I have also been weighing at 1:1 but will now do 1.2:1 although it’s still unclear which is 1.2...
 
Scott, have you ever tried blade bond?
I know this is a g-flex thread, but when you run out of it, you may want to look into blade bond.
 
Well it’s 1:1 for one. It was designed specifically for knives for 2 and has a lot higher strength. G- Flex for sure has it’s applications. I do like how thin it is so for hidden tangs, kitchen knives, I really like g-flex, but for a lot of other knives I prefer blade bond.
 
tim37a said:
Just mix it by volume - 1:1. buy two large hypodermic needles at a vetinary supply store and fill each needle, 1 with Part A and 1 with Part B. Tip each needle up and depress the plunger until all the air bubbles are gone - wipe of the ejected resin. Use a non-waxed paper cup for a mixing pot. Squirt a measured amount of part A in the cup. Example 5 ml. Squirt an equal amount of Part B (5 ml) into the same cup. Mix and apply. Since this allows you to accurately measure equal small amount of epoxy, you will not waste any and the ratio is always correct. Leave the unused epoxy in each syringe for next time.
Click to expand...
It's early, but I'm pretty sure this is the best idea that I'll read on the internet today.
 
i use a digital scale set to grams. 1 gram hardener (tan color) to 1.2 grams of resin (clear). usually 2 grams of hardener to 2.4 grams of resin is plenty for hidden tangs. i mix it in paper dixie cups. i also make sure to leave the cup on the bench to check it the next day that its solid.
 
New glue nut here.... Here's a rule of thumb for determining which part is hardener and which part is resin if it is unclear. When mixing a non-1:1 ratio....as in when mixing by weight West G/650....the resin will be the larger amount (mass in this case). The most robust 2 part (resin/hardener) compounds that thermoset...like say bondo ......have relatively high resin to hardener ratio....3:1 10:1 50:1 are common. In other words if you ever see an epoxy with a greater than 1:1 ratio by volume (hardener to resin) , think twice. Its design is likely obsolete, has slower setting, and lower structural strength properties. The lowest ratios of hardener to resin usually set the fastest, and definitely get the hottest while curing, and are often the hardest.. As in burn you if not careful.
In other words, epoxy technology has been moving in the direction of lower and lower hardener to resin ratios. Interested to see if anyone knows different.
As kids In '65 my dad came home from work one day with a translucent yellowish brick of something just invented called Epoxy. Told my brother and I that its a new material that is very tough to break,...we were handed some claw hammers and told to try. No such luck. I think it was Apollo program stuff.
 
Welcome Isogear. Fill out your profile so we know where you live and a bit about you.

This is a 5-yer-old thread. Look at the dates before resurrecting an old thread.

I can't figure out the point of your post.

We have done extensive resin testing here is Shop Talk. Use the customer Search Engine in the Stickys to look up "Glue Wars". In knifemaking a slow cure resin will create the strongest bond. Surface preparation is one of the most important factors.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top