Glock Trigger Creep? (Solved)

N

N Gremory

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Oct 21, 2013
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Completely stock, our Glock has what is probably 1/4" of trigger creep. I can lower the trigger pull through changing the springs (striker, safety plunger, and trigger) and the trigger bar connector, but the creep is still there. Of the three Glocks I recently looked at, two had this awful creep, while one had extremely little.
I know a little about Glocks, but not a huge amount.

Unfortunately, reducing the striker spring and getting an increased-compression trigger spring seems to disallow the trigger safety to engage on reset? I had to stick with the original trigger spring, in order to keep that working properly.
I see a lot of people saying that this is normal, and I see a lot of people saying that you can have a much lighter trigger pull than even that (while still properly striking the primers); no creep; and a fully-working trigger safety (the trigger resets but does not get pushed far enough to engage the trigger safety), all without replacing the trigger?

Anybody happen to have some experience or ideas on how to remove the creep? I know that it can be done with the factory trigger, but I have no more ideas on how.
All help is appreciated!
 
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You should have an experienced gunsmith look at it. Sometimes roughness is the biggest problem or contributing one. I'm familiar with many pistols but not the Glock.
 
Agreed, have a Smith check it out. I consider myself good with triggers, but it is easy to screw up and make an unsafe gun. I had my glocks done by someone else. They are gen1 guns though. Fantastic triggers now.


-X
 
We have a friend that's been a gunsmith for about 40 years, now. He generally works only in rifles and turns down handgun projects, though. After talking to him, he doesn't seem to think that there's all too much that can be done with the factory parts. A Fulcrum Trigger was recommended to him, and it doesn't seem that there's much else to do. He's likely the best gunsmith around the area (I wouldn't trust the others for much more than the simply task of oiling, anyway), and our only other option would probably be to send it out.

The Fulcrum trigger claims to have an adjustable trigger pull weight between 2# and 5#; adjustable over-travel and pre-travel; extremely little creep; and the trigger reset shortened by half. Its description says that you can shorten the overall trigger movement to 1/4", and the trigger safety remains fully functional throughout the various adjustments.
Seems to be the best option, either way. Any opinions on it?
Of course, if anybody has any ideas on what causes the creep (friction?), I can further discuss it with him.
(mete, is friction the roughness you mentioned?)

Thank you all for your answers.
 
I'll see if I can explain this well. If you take two pieces with sliding contact -- each shaped like a sine wave , and move them against each other, That in effect is roughness and friction . Of course on a small scale. Polish those two surfaces and it will be much easier to slide them.
The trick in understanding a good trigger pull is that smoothness is more important than weight !! For example in the original Rem 700 trigger smoothness reduces trigger pull by a couple of pounds with no other work !
First step is to smooth the contacting parts WITHOUT rounding or changing angles ! Try the trigger .
Second , if necessary' is to reduce depth of engagement but there is a limit to this.
Third use lighter trigger spring.
Forth change engagement angles .
Third and Forth are for the expert tuners , and are rarely needed.
Test the trigger , rifle [empty] and cocked, hit the butt against the floor sharply a few times and make sure trigger has not released.
Similar tests on shotguns and handguns.I trigger releases start over ! Think safety !
 
I shoot a G34 with a factory (-) connector for USPSA and 3 gun...the trigger bar encounters several friction points... it must depress the firing pin safety plunger, drag across and down on the striker arm as the striker is moved to the final "cock" position, and the curved end must be cammed down by the angled lip on the connector... the contact points of the trigger bar need to be polished in these areas too.. I use a ceramic stone to break the top edge of the trigger bar where it contacts the striker arm...I use red rouge and a cloth wheel... hold the safety plunger in the jaws of a drill chuck... it takes a while to transition to the Glock platform if you have spent a lot of time with another, like a 1911... dry fire, while just releasing the trigger enough to re-set the trigger...
 
Trigger creep should only be an issue on the first shot. If you ride the reset you should never have to deal with the creep on follow up shots. I personally say just get used to it rather than mod the gun out too much. If you use a Ghost Rocket and trigger spring kit from Wolff (I never replace the stock striker or safety plunger springs with lighter weights) the creep acts like a two stage trigger. You can feel when you hit that wall and the trigger is about to break. So much so with practice you can take it up on the draw and make it a non issue. If the creep is making you shoot poorly... you need to shoot more, until it stops being a factor. My 2 cents.
 
If you get the Ghost 3.5lb "rocket" connector will remove most of the creep and all over travel. There is some fitting though. I did mine with a dremel and stock back plate and youtube. It came out great and I love it. But I am a grinder of aircraft engine parts that used to taking of .005 off a part.
 
omenwolf said:
If you get the Ghost 3.5lb "rocket" connector will remove most of the creep and all over travel. There is some fitting though. I did mine with a dremel and stock back plate and youtube. It came out great and I love it. But I am a grinder of aircraft engine parts that used to taking of .005 off a part.
Click to expand...

I've got the same part, I got the rocket kit and just went really slow taking off metal. It comes with a temporary cover for the back of the slide that you replace with the original part once you're done. Wasn't too bad of a job and the trigger is vastly improved. Their customer service was top notch too.

http://www.ghostinc.com/product/GHO_RIK/Rocket-Trigger-Installation-Kit-for-Glocks-GEN-1-4.html
 
I would suggest before you go and mod your glock put some rounds thru it. I put 400-700 rounds through my guns to break them in and in a glock it will usually smooth everything out and give you a nice trigger... But there are definitły other options as others have said. I will say depending on the fulcrum trigger add some locktite as the screws can back out you could also look at glock triggers.com I believe the skimmer trigger may work for you.
 
Thank you all for the help.
The Lone Wolf 3.5# connector did not help in the least, though I did get the Ghost Ultimate trigger bar connector (did not help in the other Glock) and replaced the trigger with another factory trigger. The break is very clean and there is no slop/play. Smooth take-up and breaks nearly as soon as the pull weight increases.
 
Infi-del said:
Trigger creep should only be an issue on the first shot. If you ride the reset you should never have to deal with the creep on follow up shots. I personally say just get used to it rather than mod the gun out too much. If you use a Ghost Rocket and trigger spring kit from Wolff (I never replace the stock striker or safety plunger springs with lighter weights) the creep acts like a two stage trigger. You can feel when you hit that wall and the trigger is about to break. So much so with practice you can take it up on the draw and make it a non issue. If the creep is making you shoot poorly... you need to shoot more, until it stops being a factor. My 2 cents.
Click to expand...

Couldn't have said it better.
 
Either need to shoot more or polish the trigger parts like the video. I used flitz and polished mine. Totally different feeling trigger now. It's the grittiness that is making you have the creep.
 
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