Glue on palm swells to axe handle?

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Jun 1, 2012
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i know that large palm swells increase the cost of the handle because they require a much thicker piece of stock to form the handle.

Has anyone experimented with flying on stalk to the end a blank in order to achieve a larger palm swells without incurring the costs of a larger blank?

I wonder if this would hold up under repeated hits of a striking tool such as an axe. I know some have had success with laminated handles so I wonder if this may work.

Any thoughts?
 
I was already thinking about using a dowel and a somewhat flexible glue. Any suggestions on the glue? Gorilla Glue?
Id use weldbond. Its flexible and has adhered very well to everything I've used it on. Quality stuff.
 
No reason this won't work just fine. There's not enough stress on a palm swell to cause a good glue joint to fail. I would use Titebond II and clamp it well.

Titebond II is slightly stronger than Titebond III but has less water resistance. If you plan to abuse your axe by storing it in a rainy spot then you should use Titebond III. If you plan to use your axe rain or shine but then put it away in a dry place then use Titebond II. And this is subject to some debate. III is rated as a stronger glue, but some experienced woodworkers have found III to fail where II held up. In truth, either would be fine.
 
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Warning; this is NOT pretty ... but it is very functional and I've split a lot of wood with it and it's held up just fine. I used E-6000 and 3/16" copper wire with the ends peened flat because the adhesive is elastomeric and wouldn't hold up alone but will hold up to the constant vibration. This was my learning project last fall and i learned how to do it much better so its attractive and functional next time. It's black walnut btw.
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Yankee Josh
I'd give ya an A for effort and two thumbs up for just taking a chance.
This is how we learn. Just Do It !
Thanks! I broke the handle hammering it while seating the head and wanted to salvage it if i could. I learned you need very flat surfaces to mate to and where the swell joins the handle at its uppermost point it needs a notch to butt up against so the transition point is flush. I tried to feather this one and while it works surprisingly well the other way would be better! I am looking forward to trying again but i have a thousand and one projects already... lol.
 
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