God help you if you ever need service from Kizer

Knifenuts podcast was talking about internet in China being restricted like crazy right now with the protests and everything specific to Kizer being affected. That may be why videos or YouTube isn't working for them right now.
 
ErocSD said:
That's a shame. can you go back to the store you purchased it from? BladeHQ and Knifecenter are usually very good about that amongst many of other retailers on the forum.
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There's no sending it back to a dealer after taking a dremel to it. That knife is his. I'm not even sure the manufacturer should take it back after drilling on it.

That said, kizer should have taken it in for warranty with out question. Our other top manufacturers do this. It is an industry standard.

OP, I'd keep on @Kizer Cutlery . They have a sub here and are also likely on social media (I don't know as I despise facegramchat platforms). Often times, putting pressure on a company like kizer outside of personal contact gets results.
 
This sounds like a tough situation. Does anyone think heating the pivot with a soldering iron and then cooling it quickly would break the loctite?

Immediately after heating the pivot, do you think spritzing the pivot with a can of compressed air held upside down would break the pivot free?

OP - I haven't used one, but do you have a drill bit that is used to remove broken bolts with broken heads? If the pivot is already scarred up, it might be worth a try. You'd have to clamp the knife down in a vise, but you might be able to use that drill bit to turn the pivot while you held the other side with your driver and torx bit.

I'll be rooting for you. This kind of stuff frustrates me.
 
AntDog said:
If you drilled it out, there would be no threads. He’s talking drill a hole through the middle of the whole pivot assembly and replace the whole thing.

Brhowser87 - no, I don’t think so, from the way OP is describing things. If you can’t get a grip on two screws with two flatheads hard enough to bust it loose, it’s a safe assumption that loosening a scale and mushing it up against “the spinny side” wouldn’t work to hold it steady.

OP - no insult meant here - maybe have somebody who is stronger than you give it a try.
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No insult taken. I'm not sure who to take it to? A jeweler?
 
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If i did that [in other words, if I drilledit out], then even if I got new hardware from Kizer, it wouldn't work, because I'd have to cut bigger threads.

Also, i think i may just have to cut my losses, already. This is a lost project.
 
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I have not had any problems with a Kizer yet but this would piss me off since they have a presents here. Bummer, now might be a chance to get even and pull out the drill press.:mad:
 
And people wonder why I hesitate to buy Chinese made knives (even the so called "good ones")? Returns are difficult at best unless they have a US location for such. I only own one Kizer knife and I think it will be my last. I would be extremely frustrated with this situation if I were living it. I would punt and move on down the road.....
 
Sharperthansticks said:
If i did that, then even if I got new hardware from Kizer, it wouldn't work, because if have to cut bigger threads.

Also, i think i may just have to cut my losses, already. This is a lost project.
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I dont think you understand what we are sayin . Just drill the center out and the rest of the pivot can be removed with needle nose pliers. You dont touch the threads.
 
ErocSD said:
I dont think you understand what we are sayin . Just drill the center out and the rest of the pivot can be removed with needle nose pliers. You dont touch the threads.
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I'm not sure I have the skill for that, it lets just say I did, for the moment. There's all that Loctite in the threads. How am I going to extract the part still in the threads when it's Loctited to the other side of the pivot? I'll have even less leverage at that point, with needlenose pliers on both sides of the pivot.
 
Buy a drill press. :D Yep, spend a bunch of money to try to repair a $75-$150 knife. I don't think I would have the skill necessary to drill out a pivot without hitting the threads by hand.
 
I've read people applying fingernail polish to one side as a binder, don't know about superglue. Or boil some water and dip the pivot end in the boiling water to heat/loosen the loctite. A soldering iron will take a while for the heat to migrate down far enough for the loctite to soften up.
 
Sharperthansticks said:
I'm not sure I have the skill for that, it lets just say I did, for the moment. There's all that Loctite in the threads. How am I going to extract the part still in the threads when it's Loctited to the other side of the pivot? I'll have even less leverage at that point, with needlenose pliers on both sides of the pivot.
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You would drill out the media in the center of the bolt and the nut then so all that is left is the outside ring of the nut and it would fall free. You just need to size the drill bit properly to extract all the seized parts therefore negating any need for twisting the threads at all.

Imagine you have a 3mm pivot screw and it goes in to a 5mm outsode circumference bolt, you would drill 4mm bit through the center and then the remaining 1mm would be left. If is not threaded to the frame it will fall free. If it is threaded then you use needle nose pliers to extract the remaining 1mm since it will be much easier to work with now. I've done it before many times. Even my 1911 bushings once.
 
I've been kind of disappointed with most of knife manufactures i've tried to contact so far.
Mostly looking for some product info that's not posted online.
None of them post a phone number for you to call.
They force you to use email or webform and then they don't even respond to the first email.
Copy paste same exact email a week later and they write back, only answer 1 of 3 questions forcing another week wait and copy pasting same q's never responded to from first email.

I guess i'm just easily annoyed by 'retail industry standard customer support' of having to repeat my self 5 times to 3 different people and still not getting a proper answer.
 
22-rimfire said:
Buy a drill press. :D Yep, spend a bunch of money to try to repair a $75-$150 knife. I don't think I would have the skill necessary to drill out a pivot without hitting the threads by hand.
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I never said buy a drill press, if you dont have one that's a different story. Just offering solutions since nothing else seems to be working. Most Kizers I looked at are about $200. Maybe I just have good taste :)

Every man should own a vice and drill, but a drill press is a good investment. If he did buy a drill press it's not a one time use tool, it will last 50+ years if properly maintained. I buy tools for one job and then I own them for life, that's just me... I can use for many other jobs later on.

You can criticize if you like but I'm just trying to help the guy. OP If you live close to San diego I'll drill it out for you bud.
 
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ErocSD said:
I never said buy a drill press, if you dont have one that's a different story. Just offering solutions since nothing else seems to be working. Most Kizers I looked at are about $200. Maybe I just have good taste :)

Every man should own a vice and drill, but a drill press is a good investment. If he did buy a drill press it's not a one time use tool, it will last 50+ years if properly maintained. I buy tools for one job and then I own them for life, that's just me... I can use for many other jobs later on.

You can criticize if you like but I'm just trying to help the guy. OP If you live close to San diego I'll drill it out for you bud.
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I appreciate what you are trying to accomplish. The buy a drill press comment was intended to be more of a joke as I assumed the OP didn't have one. I also buy tools for a single job, but buy good enough ones that will last and be potentially used for many jobs. No criticism intended.:D

At this point in my life, lasting 50 years is not a big interest to me. I am more interested that the power tool works as intended and has some durability. I have bought enough junk power tools over my life to know better.

Believe it or not, about the only need I have for a bench vise is sharpening lawn mower blades. I generally just buy new ones if they are dinged up much. I do own a couple vise's, but do not have a work bench per se any more that I would mount a vise on. That was at my last house and it didn't get moved.
 
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I've only dealt with Kizer CS once, for a clip that I broke trying to adjust it. Two months after contacting them, I got my free replacement clip (on a slow boat FROM China apparently).

However, as I'm in Canada (as the OP is as well), warranty doesn't mean a whole lot, as I am not going to send any of my knives out of country and have the border pirates steal it from me on the return trip. So, I have to fix anything myself, unless it is so FUBAR'ed that it is beyond fixing then it would be no loss sending it out of country.

My Sliver had a scale screw fall out into my hand (playing with it the first day), requiring me to loctite all the screws, as well as the pivot. The only screws that had any loctite from Kizer, was the clip screws. I can't remember if the pivot was captured or not, but it was easy to take out. A retailer, on the Kizer SF, said that Kizer sometimes used loctite, and sometimes they didn't.

I do hope you get the damn thing fixed and working.
 
22-rimfire said:
I appreciate what you are trying to accomplish. The buy a drill press comment was intended to be more of a joke as I assumed the OP didn't have one. I also buy tools for a single job, but buy good enough ones that will last and be potentially used for many jobs. No criticism intended.:D

At this point in my life, lasting 50 years is not a big interest to me. I am more interested that the power tool works as intended and has some durability. I have bought enough junk power tools over my life to know better.

Believe it or not, about the only need I have for a bench vise is sharpening lawn mower blades. I generally just buy new ones if they are dinged up much. I do own a couple vise's, but do not have a work bench per se any more that I would mount a vise on. That was at my last house and it didn't get moved.
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Ya I get it, I just like having a bench and vice for rifle building and various gun smithing.... I could use an armorers block and the ground I guess but the table and vice are better for my back. I also like to reload long range ammo so the bench helps a lot. To each their own i get it, either way OP's knife sounds pretty much a lost cause so I was trying to find a last ditch effort since nothing seems to be getting any traction. IT's a shame that Kizer wouldn't take a warranty even at a small charge.
 
ErocSD said:
You would drill out the media in the center of the bolt and the nut then so all that is left is the outside ring of the nut and it would fall free. You just need to size the drill bit properly to extract all the seized parts therefore negating any need for twisting the threads at all.

Imagine you have a 3mm pivot screw and it goes in to a 5mm outsode circumference bolt, you would drill 4mm bit through the center and then the remaining 1mm would be left. If is not threaded to the frame it will fall free. If it is threaded then you use needle nose pliers to extract the remaining 1mm since it will be much easier to work with now. I've done it before many times. Even my 1911 bushings once.
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This sounds more difficult than you make it out to be, but like I said, even if you did this, you have the problem of the Loctite binding the bits left to the threads, and now you have even less leverage to free the parts than you had before. I'm open to ideas, but I think this one requires a high degree of skill and is doomed because of the threadlocker, anyway.
 
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ErocSD said:
I never said buy a drill press, if you dont have one that's a different story. Just offering solutions since nothing else seems to be working. Most Kizers I looked at are about $200. Maybe I just have good taste :)

Every man should own a vice and drill, but a drill press is a good investment. If he did buy a drill press it's not a one time use tool, it will last 50+ years if properly maintained. I buy tools for one job and then I own them for life, that's just me... I can use for many other jobs later on.

You can criticize if you like but I'm just trying to help the guy. OP If you live close to San diego I'll drill it out for you bud.
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I appreciate the help. I've been looking for an excuse to buy a drill press, actually.

I feel like the whole repair process has really gotten out of hand, though. It's requiring more and more time. And you know that after this, I'll need to get replacement hardware, anodize it, and try to use a tumbler to fix up my now badly scratched scales. This is getting to be a bit much, don't you think?
 
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