God help you if you ever need service from Kizer

Could you take it to a shop like a small engine repair shop or a gunsmith? I'd think they would deal with seized up parts pretty often.
 
NWPM2 said:
Could you take it to a shop like a small engine repair shop or a gunsmith? I'd think they would deal with seized up parts pretty often.
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Yeah, I was thinking of taking it to either a local gunsmith or to a jeweler. Then I have to get new hardware and then try to repair (tumble) the scratched frame. I offered to send the knife back to Kizer. They keep stonewalling me.
 
Sharperthansticks said:
This sounds more difficult than you make it out to be, but like I said, even if you did this, you have the problem of the Loctite binding the bits left to the threads, and now you have even less leverage to free the parts than you had before. I'm open to ideas, but I think this one requires a high degree of skill and is doomed because of the threadlocker, anyway.
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You are still missing the point, there is no thread locker left, the threads are drilled through with a larger diameter drill bit. There aren't even threads left.

Either way it's a lost cause....knife sounds pretty badly damaged and passed the point of salvaging.
 
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As a professional contractor, I have little or no patience for devices/tools that don't work as they should. OK.... almost none. I make my living with my tools, I rely on them, so I can imagine how pissed off I would be with a knife like that. A $35 foreign made knife (think Kershaw here) works properly and has great customer service and a vaunted $200 Kizer doesn't serve up either for your hard earned dollars.

So, back to being a contractor. I am called upon from time to time to repair tools (nail guns, brad guns, saws, drills, compressors, etc.) and have been fixing them for about 45 years. The advent of tools being made off shore a few decades ago also brought along Loctite and its cousins to the tool world. To remove some screws that have been secured in place with a locking agent, I have had the best luck with my heat gun. I had a more expensive one, but at this time I have one from HF that works just as well. For larger pieces like the pivot, I would use the gun because it will apply a LOT of heat across a large area. I never had a soldering iron work one time except on tiny screws. I have also used my butane powered soldering torch (fire danger!) and my butane cigar lighter. All have worked, but can melt plastic, rubber, and ABS if you aren't careful. But the high heat has always melted the "loctite" regardless.

On smaller stuff that is all metal (metal scale on the knife?), I use acetone, which was the recommendation of the Loctite corporation to me when calling their tech support many years ago. Soak it, or in my case I was able to use a dropper to keep a small joint moist on one of my repairs until the joint adhesive finally dissolved. It took a few hours, but the acetone did work. I always have acetone on hand, but if you don't get fingernail polish remover at the dollar store. It is actually a low VOC version of acetone which might be better as it will evaporate much more slowly.

Good luck. No doubt, I would have thrown it in a box or smashed it with a hammer by now!

Robert
 
Maybe worth trying old method - close the knife, apply tourniquet to center of the handle, capturing the blade (gently, but inexorable), until blade will wedge pivot mechanism by itself through the leverage. Then try to unscrew the stuck pivot.

P.S. I've got one Kizer long ago, not gonna repeat that mistake - stop pin was installed not perpedicularly, but slightly angled. Can't use the guaranty service - work of postoffice was slightly restricted due to the beginning of sorta war over here.
 
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