Good carry folder for whittling?

M

MO-Knight

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Dec 13, 2019
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Hello. I have been getting into whittling lately. Nothing fancy, just carving sticks and small blocks. I have a Mini Griptilian 555 Sheepsfoot that works nice enough for this, but I was looking for something with a smaller blade (2.5”-ish), made of good steel that holds an edge well but doesn’t punish sharpening, and with a carry clip.
I am brand agnostic. Most sites I’ve looked over emphasize larger handle fixed-blade knifes, and some folders with no carry clip.
Any recommendations?
 
They lack a clip, but I would take a serious look at the just-released GEC Pocket Carver.

Big thread on it over in the Traditionals forum.
 
Ummm, how about a Whittler? LOL

1488251112_51_511_1.jpg
 
I don’t want a pocket knife because of other items in the pocket, so that is why I am looking for a carry one.
 
My whittlers of choice are a Cold Steel mini Tuff Lite and a regular Tuff Lite. They are cheap, easy to find, and work well. The smaller is great for detail work or small areas, the larger does just about anything else. If you do a thread search on the Tuff and whittling, you will get more information than I could easily write.
 
My favorite carry folder for whittling is a Boker carvers congress. Four different blades shapes, each useful in different aspects of whittling. But no pocket clip. My second favorite carry knife for whittling is a stockman . I favor the USA made Colonial large stockman knives. They have thin blades that are easy to sharpen, and hold their edge reasonably well. They also can be fished out of the bay for cheap. I usually get them for under $15 including shipping. But still no pocket clip.

The knives that come to my mind with a pocket clip and an under 2.5 inch blade are the Kershaw Chive and Kershaw Scallion. Of the two I would choose the chive because it's blade is smaller and narrower. The Kershaw leek has a 3 inch blade, but is narrow and comes in several choices of blade steel. Be aware that when whittling with a knife with a pocket clip, it is easy to develop hot spots, that quickly turn into blisters.

O.B.
 
Like others, I think your best bet is to get a traditional whittler pattern like the GEC pocket whittler or Böker carver's congress mentioned above. But if you really want one with a clip, take a look at the Spyderco Urban. Decent steel and a very ergonomic handle (for my hand). It is a slipjoint, not locking, but has a strong spring. Thin edge bevel, which is a must for good wood carving. And if you get really lucky you can find one with the K390 blade.
 
MO-Knight said:
Hello. I have been getting into whittling lately. Nothing fancy, just carving sticks and small blocks. I have a Mini Griptilian 555 Sheepsfoot that works nice enough for this, but I was looking for something with a smaller blade (2.5”-ish), made of good steel that holds an edge well but doesn’t punish sharpening, and with a carry clip.
I am brand agnostic. Most sites I’ve looked over emphasize larger handle fixed-blade knifes, and some folders with no carry clip.
Any recommendations?
Click to expand...
I doubt any modern is going to whittle as we as a good traditional with a properly thin blade that actually cuts well.
Whenever I wanna whittle to pass some time I like a good stockman.
Of course a dedicated whittler pattern might be a better choice.
I have yet to try whiting with my Camillus Carpenters whittler.
 
I found the urban for $65 brand new. Looks quite promising. Also looking at the Cold Steel tuff lite 2.
lambertiana said:
Like others, I think your best bet is to get a traditional whittler pattern like the GEC pocket whittler or Böker carver's congress mentioned above. But if you really want one with a clip, take a look at the Spyderco Urban. Decent steel and a very ergonomic handle (for my hand). It is a slipjoint, not locking, but has a strong spring. Thin edge bevel, which is a must for good wood carving. And if you get really lucky you can find one with the K390 blade.
Click to expand...
 
I whittle with folders all the time and I highly recommend the cheap and excellent Cold Steel Tuff Lite and Mini Tuff Lite. I own dozens of whittling knives at this point, including piles of fixed blades and every traditional slip joint whittler pattern I've found, but I mostly just use the Tuff Lite knives, they work for me. I like them so much that I've wrapped a couple of them such that they're bulked up and can't be folded (I also cranked down the pivots with thread locker before wrapping them).

If you're going to try a Tuff Lite I would recommend taking five minutes to tune it up first. New out of the box the plastic handles have some sharp spots and a quick sanding will do away with. Similarly I break the edges on the blade spine to make it more comfortable when I thumb it.

I'm no artist, so I mostly carve chains and balls in various cages, the sort of stuff that requires no talent. Here are a few photos, because threads need photos:

4Qe7WLy.jpg


LEfbCW6.jpg


NaC8OCS.jpg


3tbo2Ds.jpg


yiDLpdf.jpg


If you're set on a traditional, give a seahorse pattern a try, that's my favorite of the bunch I've tried.
 
evilgreg said:
I whittle with folders all the time and I highly recommend the cheap and excellent Cold Steel Tuff Lite and Mini Tuff Lite. I own dozens of whittling knives at this point, including piles of fixed blades and every traditional slip joint whittler pattern I've found, but I mostly just use the Tuff Lite knives, they work for me. I like them so much that I've wrapped a couple of them such that they're bulked up and can't be folded (I also cranked down the pivots with thread locker before wrapping them).

If you're going to try a Tuff Lite I would recommend taking five minutes to tune it up first. New out of the box the plastic handles have some sharp spots and a quick sanding will do away with. Similarly I break the edges on the blade spine to make it more comfortable when I thumb it.

I'm no artist, so I mostly carve chains and balls in various cages, the sort of stuff that requires no talent. Here are a few photos, because threads need photos:

4Qe7WLy.jpg


LEfbCW6.jpg


NaC8OCS.jpg


3tbo2Ds.jpg


yiDLpdf.jpg


If you're set on a traditional, give a seahorse pattern a try, that's my favorite of the bunch I've tried.
Click to expand...

That's absolutely awesome!!! Both the carvings and the recommendation with pics.

OP the way I see if is you have teo options. Id personally probably go with the tuff lite and a tuff lite mini and wrap them the way that is pictured. Alternatively you can get any whittling slipping listed above and get a pocket "Slip" thin walled leather usually equipped with a pocket clip. I have seen many of them if you google it. Win win either way you go is how I see it.
 
Don’t be afraid to modify the blades. You want a generous handle and short blades. This gives you the best mechanical advantage. Look for blades that are flat ground then rub them flat on a stone and thin them down a little. You also want flat edges, coping, wharncliff, etc.

view


The knives in this picture are all KA-BAR the big one is similar to a Case Loomfixer. I think it’s the ideal whittler. The big blade for general shaping the smaller one for detail work. Carbon steal blades and a palm filling handle with no hot spots.

The other 2 started out very different with a large clip point master. You can see how they are headed in the direction of the Loom Fixer pattern.

Notice all three have very round ends. Anything rough on that end will wear into my palm over time. That’s why I chose knives with both blades on one end no bails no clips no hot spots.
 
Last edited:
evilgreg said:
I whittle with folders all the time and I highly recommend the cheap and excellent Cold Steel Tuff Lite and Mini Tuff Lite. I own dozens of whittling knives at this point, including piles of fixed blades and every traditional slip joint whittler pattern I've found, but I mostly just use the Tuff Lite knives, they work for me. I like them so much that I've wrapped a couple of them such that they're bulked up and can't be folded (I also cranked down the pivots with thread locker before wrapping them).

If you're going to try a Tuff Lite I would recommend taking five minutes to tune it up first. New out of the box the plastic handles have some sharp spots and a quick sanding will do away with. Similarly I break the edges on the blade spine to make it more comfortable when I thumb it.

I'm no artist, so I mostly carve chains and balls in various cages, the sort of stuff that requires no talent. Here are a few photos, because threads need photos:

4Qe7WLy.jpg


LEfbCW6.jpg


NaC8OCS.jpg


3tbo2Ds.jpg


yiDLpdf.jpg


If you're set on a traditional, give a seahorse pattern a try, that's my favorite of the bunch I've tried.
Click to expand...

Thanks - I love the carving and knife pics!
 
eveled said:
View attachment 1311501 Don’t be afraid to modify the blades. You want a generous handle and short blades. This gives you the best mechanical advantage. Look for blades that are flat ground then rub them flat on a stone and thin them down a little. You also want flat edges, coping, wharncliff, etc.

The knives in this picture are all KA-BAR the big one is similar to a Case Loomfixer. I think it’s the ideal whittler. The big blade for general shaping the smaller one for detail work. Carbon steal blades and a palm filling handle with no hot spots.

The other 2 started out very different with a large clip point master. You can see how they are headed in the direction of the Loom Fixer pattern.

Notice all three have very round ends. Anything rough on that end will wear into my palm over time. That’s why I chose knives with both blades on one end no bails no clips no hot spots.
Click to expand...

Thank you -great pics to help me understand this!
 
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