Good Idea for Horn Treatment?

wintermute

wintermute

Joined
Oct 18, 2007
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I want to start out on the right foot with maintenance of my khuk and want to help keep my horn handle hydrated. How does this method sound: wipe down with heavy layer of neatsfoot oil, let it sit overnight, then dry (maybe use a second application). After surface has been dried apply 100% pure modified lanolin that has been softened by setting tube in a hot water bath. Wipe on, let it cool and absorb, then wipe off excess. How does this sound, since I can't get Hooflex around me? Are there any concerns about the neatsfoot oil softening/breaking down the horn?
 
It may work quite well.

With all the horse farms in New York, it seems like you should be able to get Hooflex at a feed store. I guess probably not too many feed stores in the city though. I'm quite sure it is available online.
 
I just used Hooflex or baby oil for mine. Oddly enough, i have had a baby for nearly 7 months, and I still can't figure out where you add the oil. She's gotta be a quart low by now;)

Seriously, both of those work great. a tub of Hooflex will probably last you the rest of your natural life...unless you have horses, then i'm gonna guess you'd need to buy more. I have a feed store catering to equine critters literally right across the street from my office though, so getting it was super easy.
 
Plain old mineral oil (Johnson's baby oil) is all you need. Just rub some on every couple of months with your fingers and wipe off any excess. Then do you best to keep the horn handles out of the way of hot air that can dry them out. I use it on buffalo horn, ivory, rams horn and impala. All natural horn materials.

If you want something that is an "all-in-one" for your knives invest in Ballistol, either in spray or liquid. Yvsa turned us onto it years ago, and it can be used on blades, handles, sheaths and scabbards. It smells a bit funny but works great.

Norm
 
Thanks guys. I'm going to work with what I've got, so it'll be mineral oil for the blade, Brooks Proofhide for the leather, and lanolin and/or neatsfoot or mineral oil for the handle. Anyone have any experience mixing lanolin with neatsfoot oil? Seems like it might help the lanolin penetrate better. Any ideas on mixture ratios?
 
I would not mix lanolin and neatsfoot oil. I don't know what the combination would do - It's probably not needed and just adds another step.

If it can make a ratty baseball glove soft and pliable, neatsfoot oil is an excellent choice for protecting much harder horn from cracking.

I've left it sit on my horn handles for a week at a time (thin film) during our dry winter months with no ill effects. Great stuff. You could probably use it for long-term storage on the scabbard, blade and horn as well.

I've also used it to soften the "throat" of my BAS scabbard, due to the leather scratching the blade steel when it is drawn out and put back in. You wouldn't think Nepali water buffalo hide would be that abrasive, but if it's tight it will really scratch up the metal. Apply the oil on a Q-tip sparingly to the throat leather and let it soak in overnight. Then take a sock stretched over a wooden paint stick and buff the throat to soften it up. You may have to do this a couple times. After this is done the knife will draw much more easily.
 
For the last 15 years I have been using olive oil. It works great. I use it on all my old kukri. when I receive one I soak it for 24 to 48 hrs then let it drain and polish. Havent had any problems.
Olive oil is cheep and you can use it over and over. I keep mine in a old juce contaner and just stick the handle in it and let it soak. When you are through put the lid back on the container and keep it for the next handle. olive oil dosen't go bad. Use the cheapest oil you can find.
Jim
 
Good to see you posting, jim !!
Olive oil works well and is naturally food safe.

It also makes a good salad dressing..
Or vinaigrette...
Loves Popeye.

Ba dump bump...
( sorry jim, i'm being silly today)
 
In case anyone is interested Neatsfoot oil and Lanolin are the first two ingredients in Hooflex.
 
On horn, all I use is mineral oil, its very inexpensive, but yet it works wonders. You can get it anywhere. No need to use anything else. I cut out a plastic bottle put the khuk in handle first and fill until the handle is covered, I will leave it in the oil for at least two to three days, especially if it is new, this will rehydrate the horn and sometimes there is hidden streaking in the horn you will not see until it is hydrated. I have done this on all my horn handled khuks and never once suffered any cracks or shrinkage. After that it is good for at least a year, but you could give it some wipe downs once in a while if you like. Give it a try, you will like how it comes out.
 
I just use Ballistol. I bought a bottle years ago, and I'm barely 1/10th done with it. Works for nearly every firearm and knife application I can think of. :)
 
I wiped on a couple of appilcations of neatsfoot oil "conditioner", let it sit for 2 days between coats. wiped it down, but left the carved lines in my handle "wet". I'll leave that for a week or so then apply some lanolin.
 
I'm sure that the lanolin would be OK. I remember in the Archives that any lotion with a high lanolin content was recommended for the horn handles. The only caution with neetsfoot oil would be that it be pure. IIRC from the Archives, there was concern that petroleum products mixed in with the neetsfoot may damage stitching. I've found the Feibings brand is marked "PURE" and has no additional ingredients labeling.
 
You can get pure neatsfoot oil from Tandy Leather Factory, that's where I get mine from.
They also have leather conditioners and cleaners.
 
Karda said:
Good to see you posting, jim !!
Olive oil works well and is naturally food safe.

It also makes a good salad dressing..
Or vinaigrette...
Loves Popeye.

Ba dump bump...
( sorry jim, i'm being silly today)
Click to expand...

FWIW, olive oil (and vegetable oils in general) turn rancid after time.
I would suggest that you stay away from animal / vegetable based oils.

pete
 
For the horn, Pure Neatsfoot is good, so is mineral oil (go to the laxative section, the mineral oil there is unscented and costs less than baby oil). Mineral oil is also good to wipe on the blade as a rust preventative.

On leather I like pure neatsfoot, then let it sink in and apply a coating of beeswax.
 
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