Good light axe under $200

FLINT77 said:
How about this?

http://counciltool.com/shop/velvicut/velvicut-2-25-premium-bad-axe-boys-axe-sheath/
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I'm beginning to lust after this same axe, for the same purposes as the o.p. But the following from the above link raises a question for me:

the axe is pierced with a special punch forming ribs horizontally and vertically inside the eye. Our unique upsetting technique creates more contact area and “bite” between the head to handle joint. The result? A stronger, more durable tool.
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I suspect this has probably been discussed elsewhere in the forum, but do these ribs make it hard to re-handle when the time comes? I can't imagine how to get a good fit with horizontal ribs.
 
JackJ said:
I'm beginning to lust after this same axe, for the same purposes as the o.p. But the following from the above link raises a question for me:

the axe is pierced with a special punch forming ribs horizontally and vertically inside the eye. Our unique upsetting technique creates more contact area and “bite” between the head to handle joint. The result? A stronger, more durable tool.
​
I suspect this has probably been discussed elsewhere in the forum, but do these ribs make it hard to re-handle when the time comes? I can't imagine how to get a good fit with horizontal ribs.
Click to expand...
I don't know this but i think they are referring to a kind of cross hatch pattern on the steel instead of actual ribs. Like glorified machine marks. I'm interested in knowing this too so i hope someone who knows will chime in!
 
I imagine you just fit the haft as usual and then when you drive the wedge in, it presses the haft into the ridges .
 
I just hung a little cruiser axe with eye ribs. I actually think it was easier to keep straight with the handle. Once started I could tap the head off to sand the handle to fit. Then start it on the grooves on the handle and tap it on down
 
I'll chime in with a nod to the Hults Bruk Kalix axe. 2.25 lbs on a 28" haft for right around $100 US. I find it isn't as nice as some pricier options but it is well worth the cost. I use mine very frequently for limbing hickory and felling small trees. It isn't much of a splitter (at least not for the stuff I split), but it is a fast hand at getting stuff cleared out. I haven't packed it anywhere yet, but I don't think I would be hard pressed to use it for camping or possibly backpacking. I think it weighs in at just under 5 lbs total.
 
As far as I know the Husqvarna Multi Purpose axe is still made by Hultafors/Hults Bruk. I have had one for a few years now and it's a fine user for under $100. For a better sheath and finish the Hults Bruk Kisa is the same.
 
Fmont said:
US golden age make ~2.5lb boys axe should fit the bill nicely. You're going to get a lot of suggestions. Plumb, Kelly, Collins, Mann, etc.

In your shoes I'd get two or three really good US heads to fit your needs more specifically. Best ever made and they won't be around forever at bargain prices.
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I don't understand this post. What is a "US Golden Age" and where would you find "good US heads". Sorry, newb to axes. Have an old Wetterling 19" by the fire place, but looking for something shorter for motorcycle camping- and longer for RV camping. Thanks.
 
The 'golden age' is prior to 1965-1982 +/- depending on brand. It's when you could still buy a high carbon steel axe with convex cheeks (vs. flat cheeks which stick in the cut). Prior to about 1965 most axe makers in the US made very high quality axes and some lower priced good quality axes that still had good geometry. I think the last top tier place still making these was the Kelly Works in Charleston WV which closed in 1982. Mann Edge Tool persisted into the 2000's but mostly they were making flat-cheeked stuff by then. Council still makes a few axes with good convex cheeks but they are the last one now.

But many axes from that time period still exist on the used market and can be had for much less than the cost of a new axe. But they require some edge work and re-handling.
 
Alternatively, get an axe with flat cheeks that's a size up from what you want, and grind a high centerline onto it with an angle grinder and flap disc.
 
I too am interested in a “boy’s axe” so I’m poking around a in here. Interested for slightly different reasons, but the tasks remain the same. I Also kind of had my heart set on a GB, but the QC story’s as of late have me wanting to head in another direction.

Most importantly, I just want to say thanks to all involved for your posts and comments in this thread. Invaluable experience, knowledge and history shared in here. It’s refreshing to see folks helping out and sharing experiences and information like this. I haven’t posted much in the past, but I’m constantly reading and learning from folks like you. I’m sure there’s hundreds of other people out there like me soaking it all in. So on behalf of the creepers out there. Thank you sir’s and thank you BladeForums.

Also: I haven’t decided which direction I’m going yet either. You can rest assured, my main priority is quality, durability and a great connection. 2nd to none, a story. Some history, to hand to my son one day.

God bless
Adam
 
davemonkey said:
Or how about a hand made small axe for under 200. The H&B felling axe is a quality piece.
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I have one of those as well. First one had some bad pockets in the haft, and they were super about getting me a new one before the other one was returned. I think the haft is too long and heavy, I knocked mine down to 28" and thinned it out quite a bit. The other things: the poll is mostly token, and the heel is a liability it's so hooked. That said it chews through smaller hardwoods like nobodies business. I've thought about reprofiling the heel a little less extreme and it'll be a great SFA killer.
 
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