gorilla glue

koyote

koyote

Joined
Mar 29, 2007
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Don't laugh, it held up remarkably well in the glue wars, and I've been playing with it. It's a hell of a lot easier to use in really tiny quantities than multi part epoxies.

I've learned 2 things on scales- (we all already knew about water)

get your fit GOOD. I know, sounds silly to say, but it's important. This is not a void filling glue, no "epoxy rivets"

wet rags and qtips. if you wipe the glue line down with damp rags and damp qtips periodically during the "foaming" phase of drying, you can get a picture perfect glue line right away. I generally wipe it down a few times over a half hour or so, depending on temperature.


on cord wraps- I've tested it for a linen cord (about 1.5mm cord) wrap and on paracord.

The paracord is a mess. if there's ANY gaps you can't get into with rags and qtips, you're screwed. paracord always seems to leave gaps.

The linen cord works fantastic. soak the cord in water, glue up the handle, start wrapping- you can cover finger choils and do odd curves without a hitch. I use a popsicle stick to keep pushing the cord together so that there are no gaps and do lots of wet rag wiping as I go along. I use a tannish brown cord, too. This makes a great base layer for over wraps.
 
What about plain 'ol superglue mixed with some sort of mysterious concoction harvested under a full moon or something for paracord wraps? :D
I mean superglue works great, except it makes the paracord stiff, thereby reducing the cushioning effect, however slight, that the paracord gives you.
 
well, now- there's a couple flexible curing clear liquid adhesives I'm looking at for that.
 
I looked around that Devcon site...nothing available for purchase ref. that new Safety Clearcoat stuff. :mad:
 
minwax wood hardener works good on paracord. wrap your handle and then dunk it and let it soak in.
 
to get it to cure faster pop it in the oven and warm it up. and when it cools it mostley cured. but let it sit over nighi and it will be good to go.
 
Jt,
Will it keep the paracord in place, yet not get hard like superglue?:)
Good for paracord-to-metal bonding???
 
JTknives said:
to get it to cure faster pop it in the oven and warm it up. and when it cools it mostley cured. but let it sit over nighi and it will be good to go.
Click to expand...

Forgive me if I've misunderstood, but are you suggesting to put something wet with Minwax in the oven?

That's an extremely flammable solvent the polymer's dissolved in.........
 
nooooooooooooooooo dont put it in the oven
that stuffs like napalm....... dont ask me how i know :(
 
i onley take it up to 170 and its not a gas stove so there is no flame. i would never even think of doing this in a gas stove
 
Your initial "instruction" wasn't so clear and it'd sorta suck if someone blew their ass and home up using an old gas oven because they didn't have the same savvy as you about the explosivity.....

Sorry to be a harda$$, but you have to be careful about recommending things like that without the appropriate caveats.
 
ya i could see how some one could get very very injered if using a gas oven. yes we must be carfull when talking about things like this because some people might not think and just falow blindley.
 
Christof - you can try epoxy thinned with acetone for cord wrapped handles. Another option is bar top laquer. The Jones brothers use this and it seems to work fantastically.

I've used Gorllia glue on wood scales and carbon fiber with very good success. I have considered switching to it over epoxy for slab handles because it's easier to clean up, in my opinion. Although it did well in the glue wars, I've read that it will break down in water over time, something that has me leary. One too many soakings in a sink, or too much time in a damp area and it could come loose. That's my only concern, I guess the only way I'll think it's safe is if I test that aspect.
 
If cord wrapped handles is what you want to do...paracord, nylon, polyester, heck even cotton you want coated so it won't fall apart and almost appears as if there is nothing on the wrap at all.....or even if you want a nice sheen without the plastic look...do i have an epoxy for you!

Hopefully that is what you want. =) Let me know if it is, otherwise i'm just blabbering on and on about nothing that has to do with this thread and i'll post the answer when someone says that's what they are looking for.

I tried devcon and gawd knows how many different kind of lacquers and clear coats....but they just didn't give me what i was looking for. This specific kind of epoxy impregnates practically by itself without having to wipe any of it off so long as you don't lay a big GLOB over and over in the same place.

I've not tried it on scales, but it's epoxy and i'm sure it would work just as well and it cleans up very easy with acetone for all the excess crap that might drip an squeeze out. Very low viscosity stuff. :D
 
yes tell us tell us ::)
 
JT,

Well since you asked so nicely :) lol....I'm sure you've heard of it. It's actuall6y epoxy systems designed for Marine use. West Systems Epoxy. Heard of it? There is a Part A Resin 105A, B or C Group....(sizes) and a hardener group depending how much much time you want to play with it/cure time. Personally I use the 207S Hardener which is a 3 part epoxy to 1 part hardener mixture and it sets in about 30 minutes.... maybe i'm wrong...better go read www.westsystem.com. The epoxy itself is clear and the hardener that I use 207S is an amber color, but if you use it on anything other than white, it won't make a difference to the color of the handle. If you want to use it on white cord, get the 206 or 205...can't remember which one it is, i'd have to go look tomorrow in my garage at home. Both dry very well overnight. If you did it say around 9pm, you cou use the handle in probably 10 hours. I use it on all my japanese cord wrapped handles.

RJ Martin personally uses System 3 epoxy. I haven't used it myself, but it also appears to be a very low viscosity epoxy resin/hardener. I don't know if it gives the untreated look to paracord or nylon or polyester...but it looks like great stuff to!

I think the smallest amount of west system resin you can buy is 32 oz at around 25-30 bucks + whatever the hardener costs...maybe 15-20 on that Group A.

Here's a blade I made for some guy that has the epoxy on it.

unnamed3.jpg


appears to have nothing on the polyester cord and is nice and firm but does not give a stiff feeling like superglue would do...unless you put on a few more coats which would give it a nice sheen, but not like Devcon 5 or 30 minute epoxies would do. Plus this stuff is self leveling so long as you don't goop it on. :D

Hopefully that helps whoever out that's been looking for "STUFF" for paracord handles and cord wrapped handles

A warning though, when this stuff dries, it's HARD, not like Devcon which you can just slice off if you don't like the look. You can still cut/slice it off...but it takes quite a bit more effort.
 
very nice. i will have to get some. i have been experamenting with mixing wood hardener with gorila glue. its called gorilas wood hardener :), wate is that a pill. any way if you get the mix right you dont get foam but the para cord is very solid but can be bent in half and it pops right back stright.
 
I heard you guys were here sniffing glue so I thought I'd stop by.
Gorilla Glue is great stuff. It is will give a good bond when others fail. Wood always failed first before the gorilla glue did. If you don't like the idea of foaming glue, try Depend 330 by Loctite. It's a 2 part urethane glue is better in almost every way but it's quite a bit more in price.

I used to use West System when I was building a homebuilt airplane. I then used it for knives for a long time until my supply ran out. It's good stuff and works well for making mosaic pins. Home builders of airplanes and boats mostly use West System for a reason. It's great stuff that has a high water resistance and sheer strength.
The one down side is that is needs to be measured with some precision. The pumps you can buy will measure it accurately but pump out too much for one knife handle. There is a lot of waste. That leaves measuring by scale but that is just a pain. When it kicks off, it gets fairly warm and if you have a large amount mixed up it will suffer from exothermic runaway. The hotter it gets, the more the stuff cures and gives off more heat. I had a dixie cup full of it on my wooden work bench when it kicked off and it got so hot the bench was scorched with a nice round burn mark. I learned pretty quick to mix smaller batches after that
 
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