Got a DE safety razor, now what?

Coyja

Coyja

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Joined
Nov 7, 2009
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I was in a surplus store today and I stumbled on this Jagger for 5 bucks, so here I am.
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Main questions are:

-I have a beard, which I trim with clippers, so I don't beat up a blade much I just shave around my beard, and not always daily. Do I need the whole lather brush, fancy soaps and lotions, etc? Honestly, with the multi blade disposables, I just used warm water and no shaving cream and have no trouble now. I don't seem to get razor burn at all.

-Blades. I ordered a sampler from Amazon to get started, but is there anything worth knowing right off the bat, that would be helpful? Blades that are really well known for being quality... or the opposite, not good?
I love the idea of using this instead of some plastic throw away, don't get me wrong, I just would like to nail down a decent blade sooner than later.

-Anything I'm missing, need to know? Tomorrow AM is the first experiment...

Had been planning on picking up a Merkur 34c see sooner or later anyhow, so this is dumb luck.
Probably will still get that 34c...
 
Coyja, that's a nice razor. Those Derby should work. Some like Personna blades, others like Feather. Try the variety pack and
you'll find one you like. I would get a decent shaving soap with a brush. Wal-M--t & Wal-G---n's has them. There is a learning curve with double edge shaving. You should get a closer, smoother shave than with a Bic Tract II. Shaving every
other day you should get 6-7 good shaves from one blade. I hope you enjoy this new journey. DM
 
I rarely throw away my dull blades as one can strop them and this brings them back to life. Allowing many more shaves from
a blade. Just saying because you mentioned you didn't like 'plastic throw away stuff'. DM
 
Give it a shot. Shave several times with each blade, then go back through the rotation again, and that will help you find what works best for your face. Don't use canned goop, there is plenty of good creams and soaps that don't need a full lather if you are just doing the edges. Water only can work, but its better straight after a shower.
Feathers are the sharpest, but some find them too harsh, I use Gillett silver blues, or 7o'clock black package. But you will find what works, they are all still in the game for a reason. I do my full skull, Headblade headslick for the top and I think I've Taylors of old bond street in soap bowl. Also have a tube of proraso for travel.
Good luck to ya!
 
Thanks gents. Decided to hold off for today. We have this huge store locally that focuses on non electric equipment and supplies (think, Lowe's but nothing power tool related). Its essentially heavily Amish seeming... but they have a whole section for all the soaps and shaving accessories so I think I will plan to make a run there soon.
 
That store must be in Lancaster county.? They will have some good items to try out. Those gents are like you,-- have a beard
and mostly shave around it. So, they may have some good tips. DM
 
David Martin said:
That store must be in Lancaster county.? They will have some good items to try out. Those gents are like you,-- have a beard
and mostly shave around it. So, they may have some good tips. DM
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:D:D:D:D
LOL, Wayne County! Lehman's is the store... actually worth stopping by if ever in the area, its a unique place.
Now, while I do shave around my beard, I have the self respect to hold it up by a mustache and not my ears!
 
You don't need fancy soaps, creams or a brush. I've used the same old Gillett adjustable razor for over 20 years. Like you I just shave around my beard with just warm water. If this is your first double edged razor, be prepared to draw a little blood on your first try or two. :) I used a straight razor for most of my shaving life, but gave it up for a Gillett when I turned 60-ish. (Just was drawing too much blood with the straight razor and old shaky hands.
Rich
 
Prep is key, good prep good shave, bad prep maybe good shave maybe a lot of cuts. I recommend fragrance free oil, and a soap or creme. Get an entry level brush from the "River" a mug from the cabinet and make from hit lather after light oil prep on face. Lather shave wholesaled face with grain mostly down. Re-lather shave across grain. Re-lather shave up. Start with first pass and stop if irritated, do that for a week let face get acclimated. Then do pass 1 and pass 2, stop if irritated give it time.

Change variables 1 at a time. Get a system going then try different blades. Once you pick a blade play with prep oils, once you pick an oil play with soaps/cremes.

My recommendations. These aren't final for everyone but each piece is a good starting place if you have no starting place. You may hate one or all, it's all your face dependent, but relatively economical.
Astra Platinum Double Edge Safety Razor Blades
Truefitt & Hill Ultimate Comfort Pre-Shave Oil
Colonel Conk amber soap
Dreadnought Post Shave Balm
 
Alright, well warm water after a hot shower (my usual) didn't go so well.
Needed several passes and it didn't seem like a very close shave.
No cuts or anything, but I can see how razor burn can be caused by this method.
The biggest issue was less control over grooming around a beard with accuracy.
The head of this razor is pretty big and in the way...
I can also see how the short arm of the Merkur 34c is advantageous for my style of shaving.
We'll see, I'll keep at it until I at least run out of blades (I have an assortment of 30 on the way, plus the Derbys)
 
Forgot to mention no pressure, the weight of the razor should provide enough pressure on it's own. But you can stretch your face to make your shave easier with the larger 34C. Are you not using oil or cream or soap?

Also need to remember what I found when moving from Mach 3 to DE. Three blades were cutting on one pass on the Mach 3, starting and finishing the job. With a DE it's more beard reduction passes than beard removal like a cartridge with all the pressure one uses. With a down and across pass it should feel like you described, not a very close shave. But after a week or so, when your face can handle it, you can add another pass...maybe up maybe across the other direction and you get a BBS (Baby Soft) shave.
 
Yeah, all that makes sense, and is to be expected.
do need to get the right soap before I continue, but I have some can shave cream with aloe I'll (blasphemy, I know) try tomorrow or Saturday.
 
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I've used a few creams as well Dreadnought & Shaving Edge, but the fragrance just killed my face after shaving. I stick no fragrance, reason for amber soap, but everyone's face is different. Try what you have for a week and see how it develops. If prep is working out, but still no better on shave, try a different blade.

Last recommendation would be only try Feather blades as last half of the blade sampler. They are the light saber of DE blades and unless your face is up to it cuts galore. They also love to expose weakness in technique...cut central. Some people swear by them, but I wouldn't try them in the first half of blade samples for sure. Once you get a month or so under your belt technique will come. You will be surprised by the middle of week 2.
 
To me Feather blades lack refinement. When I started using them I got nicks. Then it occurred to me that the cause maybe
something else. So, I stropped a new Feather blade, then shaved with it as normal. Bing, no more nicks. Thus, I determined it was from a rougher edge. So, with these blades I strop them before use and the shave is smooth as butter. DM
 
Seems kind of excessive to strop these blades, but thus isn't the first time I've read that.
Luckily I have a strop so I'll keep it in mind.
 
Ha, 'excessive' yes. But that's what many embrace in shaving, especially with straight razor shaving. Still, proofs in the pudding. Stropping brings Feather blades to the point where they will give a very smooth shave and that's what we're after. DM
 
Not to be disagreeable David, because we each have our own experiences. Before SRP imploded there were SEM photos of various blades, and the feather blades were finer, and sharper than the others. I would suspect that your stropping is dropping that final bit of edge and bringing them closer to the other blades in sharpness. This was a common comment in regards to straights coming off 30k stones being "harsh". Of course there is no way that those edges would be rough at all! But they certainly didn't agree with some faces. A bit of clean leather, and they were alright. It may simply be a factor of pedantry, but I wouldn't call feathers rough, but calling them too sharp for comfort is fair.
I can do a two pass shave with a fresh feather and get a closer shave than I can with any other, but it takes time and care, and I cannot do it daily.

Because of the way we all describe different blades, its often hard to quite know what another person is actually feeling. Some blades get great love, and huge hate. A lot of guys love Persona blades, I can't get them to work. I've been a big fan of the russian blades, Iridiums, pol-silvers (when you could get those), 7-o'clock blue, gillette silver-blue, and greek blades, 7-oclock black and Bic chrome platinums. I've also read reviews where each of those was hated by another guy, even one who loved others in that list. So it can be so very personal.
Your use of the word rough, to me sounds like how I would describe Wilkenson, or persona blades, where they feel like they don't glide nicely. I've also had "smooth" blades that didn't shave well, and left lots behind. Its certainly a hard thing to describe to someone you don't know.
 
Feather blades are the only blades I own and shave with. I have years experience with them and I think I'll stay with my assessment of rough or ragged. What ever that means in your mind may be different in mine. And very few double edge
shavers here have experience stropping a double edge blade. DM
 
David Martin said:
Feather blades are the only blades I own and shave with. I have years experience with them and I think I'll stay with my assessment of rough or ragged. What ever that means in your mind may be different in mine. And very few double edge
shavers here have experience stropping a double edge blade. DM
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Fair enough. As I said, I'm not out to be disagreeable. I've seen many threads in other places about stropping DE blades for various reasons. I've tried it a little myself, but just never felt it was all that valuable for me. As mentioned I've used feathers occasionally, and have found them to be very consistent and reliable blades, just more aggressive than what I want all the time. The value proposition for me is such that I'd rather have a blade that works out of the pack. To each their own.
 
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