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Got wood from K&G, how to process the whole lot?

Discussion in 'Shop Talk - BladeSmith Questions and Answers' started by PEU, Jun 18, 2019.

  1. PEU

    PEU Gaucho Knifemaker Knifemaker / Craftsman / Service Provider

    Aug 6, 2006
    I received from K&G my first batch ever of stabilized wood from a burl from the south of Argentina called Radal, I know how to polish stabilized burls, but I wonder how to process about 70 blocks so they look shiny so customers can pick their choice.
    I sent all of them sanded 80 grit, but what you receive its wild...not smooth at all :)
    Any advise to make such a task less painful? Thanks

  2. Greenberg Woods

    Greenberg Woods Wood Fanatic and Rosewood Addict

    Dec 27, 2013
  3. TRfromMT

    TRfromMT Gold Member Gold Member

    Jan 4, 2016
    A flat belt sander or disk sander with a coarse belt/disk, then a fine belt/disk will make quick work. Use fresh belts, and plenty of them.

    Then a quick wipe with polyurethane or shellac should do.
  4. PEU

    PEU Gaucho Knifemaker Knifemaker / Craftsman / Service Provider

    Aug 6, 2006
    Email sent

    I was thinking of removing the bulk of resin with 80 or 120 grit and then to the buffer.

  5. weo

    weo KnifeMaker / Craftsman / Service Provider Knifemaker / Craftsman / Service Provider

    Sep 21, 2014
    I do 80-220-440
  6. Alpha Knife Supply

    Alpha Knife Supply Always Innovating Dealer / Materials Provider

    Oct 14, 1998
    Do not spray with lacquer, polyurethane, shellac, etc. Knifemakers want to see the finish that is attainable by sanding and buffing. We never sprayed our wood with a finish, but we gained many customers who were upset by other suppliers who had used a clear coat.

    The other general rule we learned is, the higher the grit finish, the faster the wood sold.

  7. Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith

    Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith ilmarinen - MODERATOR Moderator Knifemaker / Craftsman / Service Provider

    Aug 20, 2004
    I have a 6X48 I use for my wood. I start with a 50 grit belt and flatten all sides, then switch to a 220 grit belt. I set all the blocks outside on a sheet of plywood and spray a coat of lacquer. I also take a couple representative blocks of each type and sand/polish it in the shop. I screw a screw-eye on the end and link them all on a loop of cable and a sample display. People can compare the finished blocks with the sanded and lacquered blocks that way.

    Steve came up with a great idea for next years show. He will make a basic knife handle shape from a sample of each wood. The tang hole will be a straight 5/16" round hole. We will make a stand with 1/4" dowels that the sample knife handles will drop on and put labels on the base to ID the woods.
  8. PEU

    PEU Gaucho Knifemaker Knifemaker / Craftsman / Service Provider

    Aug 6, 2006
    Thanks guys, I'm mid way in the process, did a 100>240>400 progression and they are showing their beauty already, will post photos after buffing (suggestions welcome here too).

    Since its my debut doing this I'm amazed about the transformation on how you receive the block in its ugly messy rough state and how it develops into the beauty you saw when it was cut in its natural state...

    Forgot to add, with the 100 and 240grits I used a piece of leather on top of the metal plate, made things way easier. And the 400 belt I used it on the rubber wheel using water to detect any scratch, worked like a charm, couple of passes per side and onto the next block.

    Ken H> likes this.
  9. butcher_block

    butcher_block KnifeMaker / Craftsman / Service Provider Knifemaker / Craftsman / Service Provider

    Dec 6, 2004
    i woudl use a old 80 grit to knock down the bulk resin then once you get to the wood swap to good belts and go up the grits till buffing
  10. PEU

    PEU Gaucho Knifemaker Knifemaker / Craftsman / Service Provider

    Aug 6, 2006
    I have dust even in my soul :D Buffing starts tomorrow, its holiday here in Argentina.


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