Gransfors Bruk vs Wetterlings axe which is better

[Cimino]

Seen some videos on Youtube but thought Id ask the forum. which is better in quality, in use, to transport. If you have a favorite recommend it. If you have a favorite that's a different brand point it out the purpose is functionality what works best for you.

 

[jeffright]

The hand forged tools are not cost-effective. A drop forged tool gives you the same or better result at a fraction of the labor effort and therefore cost. Why hand forge something that isn't customized? They're just production axes. Some people might be willing to pay a high price just because someone made it by hand, but it doesn't actually result in a better tool. Would you pay more if they mined their own iron ore? Drop forged tools such as those from Estwing and Fiskars have proven just as effective or even better.

 

[Brisket]

I have some Gransfors Bruks and some Wetterlings and like them both. I think that it depends on the style as I do prefer the hatchets offerings from GB like the Hand, Wildlife and Outdoor models. I don't care that they aren't the most cost effective alternative, as with most of my buying decisions, but I do feel they are a good value and most importantly I enjoy using them.

 

[machineage]

You could say the same for knives. Why pay for a custom when any half decent production will do the same thing. Because if you love sharp things, you appreciate the look, the feel and the quality of being hand made.To me, if you love these qualities, it's worth every dollar. Same with quality axes. If you just need a tool to throw around and use, by all means get a Fiskars or Estwing, They'll certainly do the job. To the OP; I just got a Wetterlings Wildlife hatchet last week. Can't say enough about how beautifully made these are. I never owned a GB, but I'm sure there just as nice. The Wetterlings is four oz. heavier than the GB. Also the Gb has a thinner profile which means it does a little better at chopping. The Wetterlings is a little better for splitting. I think you would be very pleased with either. RP

 

[jonnyt16]

I have a Wetterlings Bushman axe and a Gransfors Bruk Wildlife hatchet. Love them both, especially the Bushman. You really can't go wrong with either. I did have to touch up the edge on the Wetterlings though to get it as sharp as the Gransfors and a few months ago when I discovered a little shop that carries both brands I noticed that nearly all the Wetterlings did not have quite as keen of an edge as the Gransfors.

 

[Chignecto Woodsman]

In the 1920s-1930s you made 1.50 a day and an axe cost 5-10 dollars. Today you make 100-150 dollars a day and truly handforged axes cost 400-500 dollars. Most of the cheap stuff is junk or a crap shoot. Most goods available are extremely cheap because of various scams in the economy, namely commodity leveraging in other countries where people can be paid what North Americans were paid 150 years ago. But that world of economy is ending really quickly and is likely a primary reason for many people buying up reliable old axes these days. We are paying for those cheap foreign goods, just in a different way than cash. One need only read the news to find hidden inflationary costs.

I don't have any of those 400 dollar axes, I have some Gransfors axes as I thought that was the best way to get started, and some rare old axes that cost around 100 dollars. I was willing to pay that since they are what I would consider the best design, and pretty hard to get ahold of. Not really that expensive compared to a lot of stuff today.

Gransfors and Wetterlings are fine axes. However, the best axes were probably made from 1920-1950 in the US/Canada (maybe Aussies too). Depending on your needs you can find old axes for 1-50 dollars easily, and more rare ones/complete ones in the 50-100 dollar range if you don't want to wait.

I see you are from Georgia. I don't know this region, but I am guessing there are lots of hardwoods. One problem with the Swedish axes is that they are designed for European softwoods. A lot of these trees are around the density of white pine, or even softer. The grind is therefore different and not very good for hardwoods.

Not so bad if it's a camping axe, hatchet or forest axe (they're very good at carving), but you will be using a less efficient axe if you're looking to gather wood. I would recommend getting a vintage axe, especially if you can fix it up or get a friend to help you. There are also the Council Forest Service axes if you don't want to fix up an old one; one seller does a good grind and allows options for a better handle. They are still fairly cheap while being much higher quality than second-world imports.

You may want to give us a better idea of use as well. Forest or Boy's axes are the best overall size unless you need to drop larger trees or carve a lot.

 

[joshiecole]

You may want to give us a better idea of use as well. Forest or Boy's axes are the best overall size unless you need to drop larger trees or carve a lot.

I'll second this. In fact I very often prefer a boy's axe for carving over a lighter hatchet. (I like to carve paddles and sometimes spoons if I'm feeling like a hippy). There's a reason traditional wood carving axes aren't light. The extra weight allows you to move more slowly and with greater precision while letting the weight do the work. The boy's axe is also darn useful for larger construction projects like cabins or whatever.

As for Wetterlings versus Gransfors. They're both much of a muchness, as my mother would say. Both will probably require a small amount of adjustment to suit your needs, as will almost any axe. Both are made using similar designs and the same production process, the same steel and heat treatment. For some reason I ever so slightly prefer the Wetterlings designs.

Actually, scrap that! Get a Hultafors (Hults Bruks). Cegga works there (I believe) and they use same process, steel and heat treatment as GB and Wetterlings.

 

[jeffright]

I say it's a "Gentlemans Axe."

 

[Cimino]

Personally I'd use them as camp axes/hachets depending on model but I wouldnt mind having a felling axe Ive cleared out many trees in my life and have never cut one down with an axe.

 

[Square_peg]

..... but I wouldnt mind having a felling axe Ive cleared out many trees in my life and have never cut one down with an axe.

You should go for it. You'd enjoy it. Do something 12" are larger and do it with only an axe. Take the usual precautions for felling a tree. It's very rewarding.

 

[ScooterJammer]

I have no idea which is better. But, I like Gransfors-Bruks Axes. I always wanted the G-B Scandinavian Forest Axe. So, one year I bought it for my birthday. I also have to admit I'm kind of a 'Axe-aholic'. Admitting you have a problem is the first step. I'm not as bad as one person I know who has 100-Axes. I only have 4. But, I digress.

The reason I like hand-forged blades, be they knives or Axes is I believe when a blade is hand-forged, it gets 'edge-packed'. Meaning the hammer is used to shape the Bitt of the Axe (or, knife edge) and in the process the edge is squeezed helping to concentrate, toughen and harden the steel. When I bought my first Randall knife many years ago, I spoke with Mr. Bo Randall and he told me this was the advantage of the hand-forged blade. It might all be hog-wash, but I believed him. All of my Axes are hand-forged, as are some of my knives.

Caveat: I have 3 superb Viking pattern hand-forged Carving Axes. Two made by Svante Djarve of Sweden and the other a John Neeman Tools of Latvia, Robin Wood Edition Carving Axe. While useful for general field-craft, these styles of Axe are probably overkill for the weekend camper.

In the case of the J. Neeman Tools Axe, the Black Smith actually inserts a Bitt of high-carbon steel into the softer steel body of the Axe and forge-welds them together. Its an old, but very effective technique.

JMHO, YMMV.

SJ

 

[Lieblad]

.....

 

[ScooterJammer]

Ha ha.
The 'ol edge pack of forging. It is hogwash...

Us mere humans cant squeeze molecules tighter together than they naturally will.

Yeah, might be so. But, since Bo Randall is recognized as one of the 'Fathers' of the resurgence of Hand-Forged knife making in America (along with Scagel and a few others) I believed him. I don't remember in the conversation the subject of molecular bonding coming up. Just the function of packing the edge down to make it more durable. But, hey! What do I know?

I still like forged blades. JMHO, YMMV.

SJ

 

[calc]

If you spend $100+ for yet another knife you don't truly need, I personally don't see why you wouldn't spend the same on an axe that gives you additional functionality.

I like my Gransfors Bruks Small Forest Axe. Its shallow cheeks allow it to bite deeper than a splitting axe and is perfect for light work like limbing:

 

[joshiecole]

On the issue of edge-packing, with forged blades there can be benefits to this process. (Bear with me). However, the benefits that are accrued come not from the fact of light tapping with a hammer while the steel is relatively cool, but from the fact that this process can with some steels confer normalisation on the steel after forging. This relieves stress and can reduce the grain size.

It's a case of observed actions not being the true causation. Smiths observed that 'edge packing' could improve edge retention and toughness, but attributed the gains to wrong thing.

It's quite an interesting topic... Anyway, moving on.

If you spend $100+ for yet another knife you don't truly need, I personally don't see why you wouldn't spend the same on an axe that gives you additional functionality.

As for this, I think the axe collecting disease is in quite a young phase. It is possible that thriftier people are more attracted to axes than knives, but I suspect that there may yet be a rise in the number of people willing to pay top dollar for top quality tools. There are already people willing to pay quite a lot of money for tools which aren't even close to my ideal specs (in terms of steel, heat treat and geometry)

For now the abundance of cheap and high quality vintage axe heads is probably keeping a ceiling on all of this. For example, I would far rather have a 20 dollar Kelly Woodslasher axe than a modern 100 dollar production axe.

 

[ScooterJammer]

It's a case of observed actions not being the true causation. Smiths observed that 'edge packing' could improve edge retention and toughness, but attributed the gains to wrong thing.

Thank you for the clarification. As I said, my conversation with 'Bo' was 30+ years ago. He died shortly thereafter. He may have attributed the result to the wrong cause and effect. It's possible. I'm not a Metallurgist so I don't know. There are many other factors that go into a well forged blade, such as the type of steel, heat of the forge, Black Smith's technique, impurities and most important (IMHO) the heat-treat.

"The riddle of steel." Or, something like that.

SJ

 

[Lieblad]

.....

 

[Square_peg]

For example, I would far rather have a 20 dollar Kelly Woodslasher axe than a modern 100 dollar production axe.

Absolutely.

 

[garry3]

Seen some videos on Youtube but thought Id ask the forum. which is better in quality, in use, to transport. If you have a favorite recommend it. If you have a favorite that's a different brand point it out the purpose is functionality what works best for you.

I have owned both and some Husky's also. I think that the Plumb National pattern hatchet or axe is going to be real hard to beat. I also see them listed as a rafting pattern or Cedar. They range in size from a scout hatchet to a boys axe usually, they have a hardened steel poll most often to boot. The steel in them old Plumb's never seem to disappoint. I see those little scout hatchets go in the $20 range most often on that auction sight. Its not unusual to find them with good original perma bonded handles.
Buy you a mask for it and you will still have cash left over for a nice boys axe or cruiser to go with it.

 

[joshiecole]

Thank you for the clarification. As I said, my conversation with 'Bo' was 30+ years ago. He died shortly thereafter. He may have attributed the result to the wrong cause and effect. It's possible. I'm not a Metallurgist so I don't know.

Hey, the most important thing is that you got to chat to Bo Randall. He made some beautiful knives.

Absolutely.

The thing is, that I know that I can get a vintage Kelly or Plumb axe in great condition shipped to me across the Atlantic for less than half of what it costs for me to buy a premium modern Swedish axe. And if I wanted a Velvicut axe it'd be 3 or 4 times as much, which doesn't really tempt me given that 5160 offerns no advantage at all in an axe tempered below 57HRC (over standard 1060) Because the whole point of the chrome in the 5160 is to enable better hardening and more toughness at higher hardness. And at 53-54HRC none of the benefits of 5160 are realised.

I have owned both and some Husky's also. I think that the Plumb National pattern hatchet or axe is going to be real hard to beat.

I agree. I've never had anything other than an excellent edge on a Plumb axe.