Green compound for stropping...

M

Moonw

Joined
Nov 19, 2014
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Here in Yurp pretty much very producer has its own color code, so one can get green or white stuff at vastly different grits. Do you guys over there have a universal color code for these grits? How many microns is the green stuff I see mentioned for stropping every now and then?

Thanks.
 
Curious about this myself. I've heard white is the least aggressive, black is the most aggressive and Green is just right. But I got nothing to back this up with.

I wasn't aware that the color was always the for sure grit.

Our very own Wildman is making me a proper strop and gonna send some compound, leaning green but at first thought white, now I don't know what to think, not even certain what day it is, my mind is melted waiting to see if my Thamar trifecta is complete.
 
Some equivalent "grit" sizes (like sandpaper), instead of microns:


"Black Emery...used for steel...approx. grit 400-500"

"Brown Tripoli...used for alum.,brass,copper...approx. grit 800"

"White Rouge...used for alum.,brass,copper...approx. grit 1500"

"Chrome Oxide [green]...used for honing chisels...approx. grit 1800"

[from Supergrit catalog]


Steve Tall said:
The catalog from Supergrit includes these buffing compounds:

"Black Emery...used for steel...approx. grit 4-500"

"Brown Tripoli...used for alum.,brass,copper...approx. grit 800"

"White Rouge...used for alum.,brass,copper...approx. grit 1500"

"Chrome Oxide [green]...used for honing chisels...approx. grit 1800"


I am starting to experiment with using Black Emery and Chrome Oxide for stropping.
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gga357 said:
I was told elsewhere that the green is more consistent and more durable than the white. Green Chrome oxide is harder and has finer particle size, so it works really well on strops. So I guess all three(black, brown, white) are usable, not optimum.
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They surely vary....likewise if you are looking lapping compounds suchlike for valves....the stuff generally sold today made its way from knife factories as to what they charge their hard felt and mop wheels....i started years back in a different trade with tripoli and red rouge for final mirror polish....and also use papers and cloths such as 1000-2000 grit automotive paint sandpaper and favorite crocus cloth on soft backers....for consistancy of compounds i recommend jewelry supply places who have sold for decades very consistant products under old names such a Vigor.....

Mine own suggestion if not using power is to let heavier grits rather than heavier pressure do the work....especially on soft backers....otherwise the soft backer rolls around edge and rounds it off....also start with point to avoid flat-spotting side of tip when handle lifted at end of stroke...
 
Thanks, guys, much appreciated. I guess "Red Rouge" is always the jeweler's stuff, finest one. I'll make my research on a per-producer's catalogue basis. Safest approach.

Ad also good point with pressure...like always, when starting, one may be compelled to compensate technique with force...most always a bad idea.
 
Moonw said:
...I guess "Red Rouge" is always the jeweler's stuff, finest one...
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That's consistent with this info from SuperGrit:

Black Emery for steel Grit 500 aggressive.
Brown Tripoli for aluminum, brass & copper non-ferrous Grit 800 agressive.
Grey for stainless steel Grit 1200 medium.
White rouge for non-ferrous Grit 1500 medium.
Green Chrome Oxide for honing steel chisels/knives Grit 1800 fine.
Red Rouge for precious metals Grit 2000 ultra fine.
Blue Buff for acrylic & polycarbonate Grit 2000 ultra fine
 
Red rouge is far finer than any 2000 grit paper....you will be a while simply removing Brasso marks on brass with red rouge unless using a wheel...much less, 2000 grit paper marks....it finishes a razor or knife edge wonderfully, but some applications might actually require a toothy edge for bite ala' over-ripe tomato....i use it on cereal box or tablet backer for stropping off the knife wire edge....

So i would be very cautious in applying one manufacturer/industry "grit" to another....i have found most knife supply compounds far uglier a finish than supposedly equal stuff from jewelers old name suppliers...

And yes, red jewelers rouge is last step on gold before the ultrasound tank....and common forever on barbers straight razor strops...
 
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