Grinding a Tanto ?

[Kosa_PL]

Hello everyone

I have small question for you guys.
What is the best method for making tanto grind on KMG ?
I want to make some tanto knives, but I not sure what method of grinding them to use.

I hope you will help me with this guys

Best Regards,
Konrad

 

[Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith]

If you are referring to the chisel grind:
Start with flat bar stock or a forged blank. No need to forge in the fine details or tip shape. A basic profile is all you need. Generally, don't do the tip yet.
Flatten the back and make sure it is truly flat.
If the front side upper blade is going to be polished, flatten the front side and add the distal taper. If the upper blade surface is going to be Brut-de-forge, go to the next step.
Do the main bevel all the way down the blade. Get it straight and even.
Grind the tip shape and add its bevel to intersect with the main bevel.

After the main grinding, hand sanding is far better on these blades.

 

[J W Bensinger]

+1 on hand finishing. Too easy to get it right, bugger it up and chase the bevels for half an hour trying to fix it.

 

[Daniel Fairly Knives]

Unagi or American Tanto (compound) grind - practicing on a few kiridashis will help as the tip grind is the tricky part. I like to do the main grind first then the tip... either through the belt progression or completely separately.

The points should meet up nicely if everything is even... same height and geometry to each bevel.

 

[Kosa_PL]

I want to make propper American Tanto grind on my Tengu, ONI and Grendel
And thinkin about best method to make front grind on both sides.

 

[coldsteelburns]

This might help you visualize how they are ground since his tanto is very exaggerated... at least the front (tip) portion of the grind, or "kissaki" rather... Not my vid btw
[video=youtube;4lh01vX55AI]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4lh01vX55AI[/video]


~Paul

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My YT Channel Lsubslimed

 

[coldsteelburns]

I should add some intructions that were given to me about 4 years ago, when I could not, for the life of me, wrap my head around how guys were able to grind an american tanto and achieve such a crisp yokote. Here are intructions paraphrased:

1. First, grind the main bevel all the way from the ricasso to ( or "through") the end of the blade.

2. Now grind the bevel for the tip (kissaki) portion with it's edge running perpendicular (square) to the belt on your grinder (edge up), being carfull not to grind into the main bevel too far near the actual cutting edge. You may tend to put too much pressure near the yokote side when starting out, which will wash out the crisp facet (yokote). Just remember that more steel needs to be ground away from the unground tip area than from the side that intersects with the main bevel, which was already mostly ground in the first step.

3. Finally, touch up both bevels until you get the desired crisp grind like line (yokote) that seperates the two bevels.
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Also, I would listen to Daniel, he does some of the nicest compound grinds on his eastern/western fusion, mixed with a bit of new school - type blades.

~Paul

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My YT Channel Lsubslimed

 

[Kosa_PL]

OK, I ordered parts for new work-tables

1. for extreme small angles ( for making tanto tips and nice swedges )
2. For making angle started grinds

Power wiilll RIIISEEE

 

[Daniel Fairly Knives]

Also, I would listen to Daniel, he does some of the nicest compound grinds on his eastern/western fusion, mixed with a bit of new school - type blades.

I tried explaining this to my mother in law and she still isn't buying into it!

Thanks Paul!

 

[Daniel Fairly Knives]

Here's a quick graphic I worked up...

1. Grind straight across evenly and parallel... when you are done if you look down the blade from the tip you will see s cross section of the blade geometry. No distal taper here!

2. Do the same exact depth and height grind aross the tip keeping the grind paralell to the tip angle

3. Tanto! Poke it through a phone book for kicks!





This is generally done using a flat grind, a main hollow bevel and flat or convex tip will give you a sweeping grind. Bob Lum's grinds are a great example.

 

[Bob Ohlemann]

I grind my tanto EDC's freehand with a 10" wheel for the main bevel. Hollow grinds are easier to get a straight line on. I then switch to the flat platen and freehand the tip. For me the key to doing the tip is to be looking straight down the belt to ensure contact is always made the same way especially when changing grits. I also wrap the fingers of my guide hand around to the back of the platen for stability when doing the tip. The swedge (obviously not a traditional tanto) is done the same way. I really like the way the hollow grind and the flat come together.

Bob

Untitled by Bob, on Flickr

 

[Kosa_PL]

By the time I was thinking about work rest for making tanto and swedges, and there he is

I just need to mill mounting do grinder arm.