With CPM 154 I don't grind post heat treat. I go from 36 grit, 60 grit, 120 grit, 220 grit, 400 grit, 220 norax. Then hand sand at 400 grit. Send off to Pau Bos heat treating. When I get the blades back I hand sand with 400 grit up to 1200 grit. It goes fast.
I would say a 4" drop point blade would take less than ten minutes to put the primary bevels in with a ceramic 36 grit belt. Maybe more like five minutes.
Now, many years ago David Boyle used to advertise some kind of cobalt blade. I remember there were advertisements of him using a blade of that material to cut 1" hemp rope. He had a whole pickup truck full of cut pieces and was still cutting. A customer got one of those blanks for me to grind a knife out of. It was 1/8" thick. I couldn't believe how long it took to grind the bevels. Sharp belts just didn't want to cut it. I wouldn't have believed it if I hadn't tried it. That was the one and only blade I ever made out of that material. Sounds like you are using a similar steel.
Are you using a round contact wheel or the flat platen? A round wheel will cut faster.
That must be Talonite or Stellite . . . They say that if tool steel stays sharp for 6 - 8 hours then Talonite ® will retain an edge for 12 - 14 daysWith CPM 154 I don't grind post heat treat. I go from 36 grit, 60 grit, 120 grit, 220 grit, 400 grit, 220 norax. Then hand sand at 400 grit. Send off to Pau Bos heat treating. When I get the blades back I hand sand with 400 grit up to 1200 grit. It goes fast.
I would say a 4" drop point blade would take less than ten minutes to put the primary bevels in with a ceramic 36 grit belt. Maybe more like five minutes.
Now, many years ago David Boyle used to advertise some kind of cobalt blade. I remember there were advertisements of him using a blade of that material to cut 1" hemp rope. He had a whole pickup truck full of cut pieces and was still cutting. A customer got one of those blanks for me to grind a knife out of. It was 1/8" thick. I couldn't believe how long it took to grind the bevels. Sharp belts just didn't want to cut it. I wouldn't have believed it if I hadn't tried it. That was the one and only blade I ever made out of that material. Sounds like you are using a similar steel.
Are you using a round contact wheel or the flat platen? A round wheel will cut faster.
How many times do you stop and look at the progress as you're grinding? That may be a lot of your time, fixing things that would have otherwise fixed themselves.
Join the AEB-L bandwagon.Ya won't look back. I run it at 62 for kitchen knives and small slicer edcs. They cut and cut and cut and well ya know.... I run it at 63 for my leather working knives and holy cow......
Since I learnt the hard way that Niolox should be nearly finished before heat treat and I didn't want to toss my Moby Dick. Instead, I did a quick finish on it and will give it away to a friend as a utility knife.
Some blades just doesn't want to give up without a fight. Surely I managed to give it a scuff during WEPS sharpening also. Hahaha. I guess I'm allergic to Niolox and should keep away.
I ordered a couple of bars of 14C28N, can't wait to try it out.
http://smt.sandvik.com/en/products/...14c28n-piece-hardening-deep-freezing-70c-95f/
Your grinding looks great even with the effort you had to put into it! Frank
Wow, i thought my son was slow. Kyle does one to 120 grit in less than an hour.
Wow, i thought my son was slow. Kyle does one to 120 grit in less than an hour.
Now that's funny & a very good tip!Yeah, I believe I hold some sort of unofficial record with this.
As the current record holder, may I offer a pro tip: never grind and hand sand Niolox after heat treat.
@currenthill
i dont want to highjack the threat but i cant figure out to do a private message. i saw your grinders in the posted pic. can you tell me the model /maker ? or are they home build ? they do look really down to earth functional and i would love trying to get my grubby mitts on them.