Grizzly modifications

C

caver101

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Dec 3, 2010
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I have searched and can only come up with some old post/threads (like 2004 and older) and most of the links to photos and websites are now broken. (Back then a extra 10" wheel from Grizzly was $25 :eek:)

This thread was pretty helpful: http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=304024&highlight=grizzly+modifications

I saw in another thread where someone said you can buy the grizzly g1015 without the motor, just the sanding arm only. So far I can not see where that is an option. Would love to do that and just use step pulleys on a free motor I can get.

What other options are there for making modifications to the grizzly?

I am trying to upgrade without breaking the bank. The "grinder in a box" looks like my next option and not too much more money (but its still more money) if going single speed like the grizzly.

Anyway, just trying to explore all options before I start spending my hard earned money. Thanks in advance.
 
Something else I am unclear about with the Grizzly G1015 is the way the sanding arm rotates. If I want to put a 3/4" wheel on the end to do some small radius work will the arm rotate forward 90 degrees to make access to the small wheel easy??
 
caver101 said:
Something else I am unclear about with the Grizzly G1015 is the way the sanding arm rotates. If I want to put a 3/4" wheel on the end to do some small radius work will the arm rotate forward 90 degrees to make access to the small wheel easy??
Click to expand...

The arm has two set screws which hold it in place (or allow it to be rotated). I would think that the only way to efficiently use a small wheel would be to attach one (with axle & bearing) to a similiar pipe frame like what Grizzly uses to hold the top idler wheel. The other option would be to make a small wheel assembly that would bolt on in place of the platen (making it a three wheel grinder). Either way would take a little engineering on your part.

[Grizzly has a parts division where you may order any part for any machine independantly.]
 
This is going to sound like I'm being a jerk...but in my honest opinion, the best modification you can make to a Grizzly grinder is to tie a rope to it and leave it in your boat...that way when your out on the water and the wind is blowing, you can use it for an anchor.

I can say that because I have a Grizzly in my blacksmith shop, that I decided to put there for mundane jobs like deburring.....and it doesn't even do that very well. I had a friend drop it by the shop one evening, telling me that a co-worker had brought it to work and asked is anybody wanted it....he grabbed it, thinking he could trade me out of a knife. When I told him I didn't want it, he just left it laying outside the shop.
 
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Dang Ed, if you dislike it so much you can send it to me :D Don't know if the shipping cost would be worthwhile though...
 
James, you beat me to it :D


Like I said above, not set of the Grizzly, just exploring my options. The "grinder in a box" or Coote is the next two I am looking at.
 
Ed Caffrey said:
This is going to sound like I'm being a jerk...but in my honest opinion, the best modification you can make to a Grizzly grinder is to tie a rope to it and leave it in your boat...that way when your out on the water and the wind is blowing, you can use it for an anchor.

I can say that because I have a Grizzly in my blacksmith shop, that I decided to put there for mundane jobs like deburring.....and it doesn't even do that very well. I had a friend drop it by the shop one evening, telling me that a co-worker had brought it to work and asked is anybody wanted it....he grabbed it, thinking he could trade me out of a knife. When I told him I didn't want it, it just left it laying outside the shop.
Click to expand...

:) "A rose by any other name......."

When it comes to buying tools you normally get what you pay for and it is a good practice to get the best tools that you can afford.
 
I have a Grizzly and I use it a lot. And like almost everyone I know of that runs a Grizzly G1015, I'm saving and planning for a "real" knife grinder.

A basic No-Weld-Grinder or Grinder-In-A-Box can be built for $300-400 more than the Grizzly. I wish that's what I had done.
 
ok - everything I have ever made was done with a Grizzly. Sure, there are better grinders, but not for the cost. When you first start, you don't always have the money or the confidence in your decision to buy the best.

Sure, I am gonna upgrade, too.

But - to get the best out of a Grizzly, which is the best thing for a new knifemaker to buy until they are certain they are going to stay with it, etc.

1. raduis the edges of the platen by taking it off and grinding it against the contact wheel. Make the platen a little more narrow than the 2" belt and put different radii in different areas to use as sculpting tools.

2. grind a notch in the work rest so that it goes around each side of the belt and your blades can't be sucked between the rest and the platen and ruined.

3. Careful about getting the 10" wheel - it is better for hollow grinding, but I have hollow groud viking sword fullers on the 8" wheel. The reason to be careful, the contact wheel is the drive wheel. Larger wheel - faster belt speed. That is the second biggest problem with the griz - one speed, real fast. It is hard to do finish work or fine detail.

4. the biggest problem is the belt will skate under your work when you grind, it is worse if you don't radius the platens. Still, you have to work very hard to get good plunge cuts on the platen.

5. like with many grinders, you may want to raduis the wheel a little.

6. problem - there are not any smaller contact wheels to be bought, you gotta have one custom made, and then you would not be able to access it because of the placement of the motor housing. 8" and 10" are all you get.

Still, look at what I make. Grizzly and hand tools, some all Griz, some all hand. Anything longer than 8", most of it was done with the Grizzly. I am not a glutton for punishment. I do use hand scrapers and files to get my lines set, but I don't have to. I just like hand tools better.

So, that's how to get it to the best of its ability. It will get you to a high level. You just have to learn to work with the tool, like everything else.

If you become super-talented, then you are likely to be able to do better or faster work with a kmg or bader. But, for the first year or two with a big grinder, it won't make much difference.

have fun,

Kevin
 
if you have a motor already, the coote is a better choice. If not, Grizzly is good unless you know for certain you are going to need a good grinder for years to come. Then, it is up to how much money means to you and how much time you have to build.

kc
 
The no weld grinder is a first rate grinder. I have and use a Grizzly and a NWG and use them bouth, If I had to use only one it would be the NWG.
 

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this was my approach when I wanted to get into knife making, I done the same thing what was the cheapest grinder I could find and after all of the debate about the cheaper grinders I decided to find a good used grinder (kmg, bader, etc) what I found was these grinders sold for about the same price new or used. I decide I would buy the KMG and if knife making wasnt for me I could always sell it. So thats what I done and have never looked back it was one of the best decisions that I have ever made. just a thought
 
The Grizzly is one of the most used tools in my shop. When my old one died, I ordered another. It's a very versatile tool. I have a Hardcore grinder that I use for certain things.
I don't make a lot of knives-I'm more of a cutler. But when I do make a knife, I do it on the Grizzly, and finish it on the Hardcore-mostly to avoid as many belt changes.
 
Thanks guys.

I did some more searching on the Grizzly and I think the versatility of the "Grinder in a box" kit is more what I am looking for.

If I could find a used grizzly for a song then I would jump on it.
 
Another modification that I made to my Grizzly was to put a slight crown on the drive wheel. There are instruction with the assembly instructions.

Mine seems to track pretty consistently when I change belts.

I had to change the push/pull power switch with a toggle.

Ric
 
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