Gyuto knife - Take 3

H

Heli00

Joined
Oct 19, 2017
Messages
325
Hi again,

Here is my first proper, I hope, kitchen knife. It is my interpretation of a Gyuto knife made from O1 steel.

I say proper, because I kind of made another kitchen knife, by trying to save the build, but not really by design, see this and go to the end of post
https://www.bladeforums.com/threads/help-me-with-this-knife-design-and-build-take-2.1641810/

Blade length: 7 1/4”, distally tapered
Width: 2” at the widest point
Spine: 0.11” at the widest point

It has an FC then mustard etch. It will rub off, but I just wanted some protection until the natural patina forms and the pattern looks interesting.

The spacers are made of cooper, G10 and African black wood.

Comments welcomed.

IMG-1840.jpg


Thanks again,
Constantin
 
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Well done! I’m not sure I would have used FC for a kitchen knife but I don’t know if it would hurt anything either. Looks good for sure!
 
Thanks Matt.
Yeah, I hear you. I neutralized and washed it very well, but you have a very good point, since I’m using it in the kitchen. It better be safe, since I have already used it.:eek:

Could anybody please comment on this.

Thanks,
Constantin
 
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Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith said:
Looks good.Now go cut some food with it and see how the edge geometry is.
Click to expand...

Thanks Stacey.

Yeah, already did. Cuts nicely, I think. Tried with a chery tomato and it starts the cut and cuts it completely under its own weight, without any pressure applied. It will be put to good use and will monitor performance with different foods.

The edge before sharpening was at 0.012. Maybe a little thick by Japaneze standards?

What should one shoot for when aiming for a really good slicer?

Thanks again,
Constantin
 
Heli00 said:
Thanks Matt.
Yeah, I hear you. I neutralized and washed it very well, but you have a very good point, since I’m using it in the kitchen. It better be safe, since I have already used it.:eek:
Click to expand...

It's perfectly fine, you already neutralized and washed it all away...
 
I take a Japanese blade to a near zero edge initially ( .005" or less) and then put a micro bevel at around 15 degrees.

For example. in .10 stock, if you use 10 degrees as the bevel angle and grind it around 1/2" high it will make a near zero edge. Then you increase the angle to 15 degrees and make a nearly invisible secondary bevel.
 
Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith said:
I take a Japanese blade to a near zero edge initially ( .005" or less) and then put a micro bevel at around 15 degrees.

For example. in .10 stock, if you use 10 degrees as the bevel angle and grind it around 1/2" high it will make a near zero edge. Then you increase the angle to 15 degrees and make a nearly invisible secondary bevel.
Click to expand...

Thanks again!
Constantin
 
Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith , forgot to ask.
How do you set such precise secondary bevel angle for the edge? Do you use a sharpening tool?
And also for the primary bevels angle, do you use a tool, or just geometry math?

Thanks again,
Constantin
 
Pretty much by eye. If you are not experienced, the Bubble Jig from Fred Rowe is a great tool.

Here is how I do the edge:
I already know that the primary bevel is around 10° just by grinding it to 1/2" (12mm) high on a .10" (2.5mm) thick blade. All I do is slightly increase that angle to ghet around 15°. It isn't important that it is exactly 15° … just that it is less acute than the primary bevel. It could be 20° and would work just as well.

In the same way, the exact angle of the primary bevel isn't important. If I grind the bevel 3/4" high, the angle is around 7°. This would be a more delicate slicer, that is the only difference. People get too concerned over this angle and that angle for a blade.

I talked with a fellow in the grocery store (he saw my "bladesmith" shirt) and he asked me why his Gerber folding knife wouldn't get sharp. I looked at it and told him the edge was so worn that the blade was almost round edged. He said he only sharpened it at 19°. I told him if he looked at it with a magnifier, he would see that he was only sharpening the sides of the bevel, and not the edge. I said to get a good stone and sharpen the blade until it makes a burr, then re-set the edge at 19° if he really wanted that exact of a number. He said he spends an hour sharpening his knives, I told him I spend less than 60 seconds. He checked the edge on my pocket knife and was impressed. Hopefully, he learned that the exact angle isn't nearly as important as getting the right edge.
 
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Great, thanks again, awsome information and I also enjoy your stories ;).

Constantin
 
My comment on the FC finish is more about taste. I can taste the patina(rust) when I use carbon knives with heavy patina on certain foods. . It doesn’t bother some people.
 
Matt R said:
My comment on the FC finish is more about taste. I can taste the patina(rust) when I use carbon knives with heavy patina on certain foods. . It doesn’t bother some people.
Click to expand...

I agree there is some sort of taste/smell of the patina, but I guess it will be there regardless if it was forced using FC or just natural. Is there a difference?

Thanks,
Constantin
 
Heli00 said:
I agree there is some sort of taste/smell of the patina, but I guess it will be there regardless if it was forced using FC or just natural. Is there a difference?

Thanks,
Constantin
Click to expand...
To some degree, yes. It just takes longer to naturally occur.
 
Matt R said:
To some degree, yes. It just takes longer to naturally occur.
Click to expand...

Sorry, I wasn’t clear enough. What I meant by “is there a difference”, was in terms of taste/smell.
That’s why I used FC to get some patina now, instead of waiting for the naturally occurring one.

Thanks,
Constantin
 
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