Hammerite Paint vs Rustoleum Paint for protecting tools?

[Brian Avila]

I am starting to make some tools and jigs and I just painted my newly acquired KMG frame.

I used some Rustoleum hammer finish on my KMG. I have used rustoleum on a couple of this over the years and didn't know one way or another so I figured why not try it on some of my tools to protect them.

I then heard from a buddy that rustoleum really doesn't do anything and that Hammerite rust cap paint is better.

Anyone one know the differences? Which one is better?

-Brian-

 

[Bob Ohlemann]

I have about 200 cans of spray paint sitting on my shelf. They are all different brands and formulations from BBQ grill paint to engine paint to camo flats, crinkles, and hammered. The only thing I have found to really matter in the durability of a spray paint is the quality of the surface preparation.

Bob

 

[Brian.Evans]

I found on my Wilton vise restore that the rustoleum never seemed to "get hard" or cure. It is still slightly soft, even now.

 

[Overmountain]

Something to look into if going retail with your stuff... IMHO there is nothing that tops or equals rolling your own. I use Spies Hecker products mostly and like RangerBob says, surface prep is key. Beyond that, it is even application of the final product, a quality product, and the right paint for the piece. You don't have to have a high dollar gun in a downdraft booth, just a decent airbrush and compressor works wonders.

Paint is much like the epoxies we use. Pigment, mixed with other ingredients can give you various final products. Hardening time, gloss, toughness or elasticity can be tempered with a bit of chemistry. A good gun lays it down nice and smooth. A good airbrush is plenty to do tools and jigs, even a grinder. If you are going to be doing a lot of it, I suggest going pro.

Hammertone is created by adding a silicone thinner to the paint. It was done a lot in the 40's - 60's as it was a cheaper and tougher way to coat the equipment. It also looks really cool so it has stood the test of time. Aditol is a brand additive that will give you the hammertone finish.

Don't get me wrong, the rattlecan stuff thats out these days is really great. And gives a great final finish. Other than the startup costs, (and the learning curve,) pro systems will ultimately be cheaper. Again, if you are doing a lot of it and for retail, it might be the way to go.

Medic, some rustoleum paint is designed to go on plastic, thus it stays elastic and 'soft.' It has elasticisers in it and lots of them.

-Eric

 

[Brian Avila]

Good info. I don't plan on retail anything. Just want to protect my jigs and metal working tools (kmg). Wiped it down with ETOH and sprayed it as even as I could.

It came out good with rustoleum. I even helped my buddy use some hammerrite this evening I couldn't see a real big difference. But maybe it will be more wear resistant than my rustoleum. We will see.

 

[Overmountain]

Good info. I don't plan on retail anything. Just want to protect my jigs and metal working tools (kmg). Wiped it down with ETOH and sprayed it as even as I could.

It came out goo with rustoleum. I even helped my buddy use some hammerrite this evening I couldn't see a real big difference. But maybe it will be more wear resistant than my rustoleum. We will see.

Was it a single can or a several can 'system' of paints? I have been curious about some of their multi-can stuff like the wheel paints etc...

In the future, if painting bare steel a self etching primer coat never hurts. Usually dirt cheap, but will help the paint stick a bit better...

Good choice on the hammertone BTW. It is one of my favorite finishes. It just seems to convey 'heavy duty' when you see it...

-Eric

 

[Brian Avila]

Eric,

It was a single can. I have used primer before as well. If you prep the surface well the rustoleum sticks just fine. I have painted wheels with the flat black and it held out for years and no problems.

Here is my hammered finished rustoleum KMG now.

-Brian-

 

[elementfe]

I got really tired of Hammerite, after using it on everything for a few years- it seems to me to be a replacement for powdercoating, and has the same drawbacks- if you chip it, the rust begins and travels under the film.
My bro-in-law does a lot of tower work and outdoor installations (solar and wind power installer). For his stuff, I paint with a couple coats of rustoleum red primer, and it just last and lasts...and it doesn't start flaking off just because you chip it!

 

[Travis Fry]

I've used the Rustoleum hammered stuff on kitchen cabinet pulls withh good results. After good cleaning and a coat of primer, they're going on 4 years of regular use and still look good.

It looks real nice on that KMG. :thumbup:

 

[NickWheeler]

I have used both brands and have felt they are pretty much equivalent to one another.

I prime most things I'm going to paint with the Rustoleum "Rusty Metal" Red primer first. But I don't actually paint over rust with it.

Like has been mentioned, even with a $2 can of store brand paint, you'll get the best results with the best prep, several thin coats, and proper cure time.

 

[Brian Avila]

Oh, I agree with that Nick. I was just curious. I have used the rustoleum for years. But a buddy said the hammerite was better.

I wasn't smart enough to prime my KMG, it was super clean and the Rustoleum can says no primer needed. If I have problems I can always redo it. ( don't have a motor or pullies for it yet.... :grumpy: )

 

[james terrio]

My tools are all protected by a crusty layer of machine oil and dust. Works great, and tends to be self-healing

 

[12345678910]

I have about 200 cans of spray paint sitting on my shelf. They are all different brands and formulations from BBQ grill paint to engine paint to camo flats, crinkles, and hammered. The only thing I have found to really matter in the durability of a spray paint is the quality of the surface preparation.

Bob

Out of curiosity, what do you do that takes that variety of paint ?

 

[Brian Avila]

My tools are all protected by a crusty layer of machine oil and dust. Works great, and tends to be self-healing

That works. But for me I want it to be clean and no rust. So I paint it.

I heard of browning. Which is like a controlled rusting? That's not for me either I can't stand rust.

 

[Darrin Sanders]

That works. But for me I want it to be clean and no rust. So I paint it.

I heard of browning. Which is like a controlled rusting? That's not for me either I can't stand rust.

You better stay in CO and never move to LA. On some days anything made of steel will have "sweat" on it, even INSIDE the shop. You can actually watch stuff rust here. LOL
Thats the main reason that I chose a Bader over a KMG. The Bader came with a nice powder coat finish that has yet to rust.

 

[Brian Avila]

You better stay in CO and never move to LA. On some days anything made of steel will have "sweat" on it, even INSIDE the shop. You can actually watch stuff rust here. LOL
Thats the main reason that I chose a Bader over a KMG. The Bader came with a nice powder coat finish that has yet to rust.

Depending on the time of the year you get that problem because of the huge temp swings creating condensation in the shop. Which is why I choose to paint it. I picked the KMG because that is what I liked compared the the one Bader III I touched like 4 years ago.