hand cutting vs forging a knife

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knifemaking01

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May 4, 2012
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hey all, guess i might post my first of many questions, what are the two main differences between cutting a knife out of steel to the desired shape as apose to forging your own knife on an anvil with hammers and heating and what not? what are the main differences between the two and when is one favoured over the other, also would it be best to learn but cutting your own knife or start by the more vintage way in forging a knife? ive seen the two just not sure why one is used over the other.
 
I forge because I enjoy it and my blade stock isn't 'ready to use' bar stock. It has to be forged.

Cut and grind is easier and faster.
 
i too can see myself really enjoying forging especially when i want to start using damascus, which has to be welded and forged, i think the only issue is i guess the cost of setting up to start forging, an anvil dosnt come cheap for one, then comes everything else

btw your knives are beautiful especially your fold away Damascus knives, something i hope to make myself sometime down the track
 
Stock removal limits your designs to the size of the barstock you can find, and large blades entail a lot of waste; a really skilled forger can twist bend stretch and otherwise manipulate his steel to pretty much any shape he wants, and make the most of every ounce. On the other hand, forging somewhat limits one's repertoire in terms of suitable blade materials (generally low-alloy steels), whereas stock removal alloys you to work with any material you can get in a suitable size (stainless, tool steels, Talonite, whatever).
 
Stock removal is certainly faster than forging unless you already have a forge and anvil. Keep in mind that you don't have to use the "traditional" type of forge or anvil like you see in the movies; anything that does the job will work for either.

But for a stock removal knife you really only need a handful of files and some time. I have seen very nice knives made with nothing but files and a rudimentary vise.

The difference between the two, in my opinion, is the amount of waste metal. You can forge a blank very close to the shape of the finished knife and lose almost nothing. You can also make knives out of round stock or spherical stock by forging them to shape.

Can't do that with stock removal techniques, really, but you also don't have to invest in a forge, tongs, anvil and all the other sundry bits that make forging relatively easy.

My advice would be to stick with stock removal and try to maximize the shape of the knife in the piece of steel that you buy. Draw a life-size sketch on a piece of paper and make it fit to the metal that you have.
 
ok thanks everyone, i really appreciate the details responses, makes all sense now, where do all of use buy your steel? in australia it hard to come buy and if available expensive so i will source my stuff from the states, just dont know what the best store is
 
And for goodness' sake, start small. It's folly to attempt a big bowie or chopper right out of the gate. A 3-4" blade made from stock no thicker than 1/8" makes a great cutter and you're less likely to drive yourself crazy trying to keep it straight and even.
 
knifemaking01 said:
ok thanks everyone, i really appreciate the details responses, makes all sense now, where do all of use buy your steel? in australia it hard to come buy and if available expensive so i will source my stuff from the states, just dont know what the best store is
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New Jersey Steel Baron

USAKnifemaker
 
Same here Bruce, as well as Alpha Knife Supply. But shipping to Australia might be problematic for this fellow.

Australia must have industrial supply companies, yes? They should be able to get you O1, D2, A2 and 440C if not others. All four make good knives.
 
james terrio said:
And for goodness' sake, start small. It's folly to attempt a big bowie or chopper right out of the gate. A 3-4" blade made from stock no thicker than 1/8" makes a great cutter and you're less likely to drive yourself crazy trying to keep it straight and even.
Click to expand...

Now, that right there is well worth repeating!!!!!!!!!!!
 
james terrio said:
And for goodness' sake, start small. It's folly to attempt a big bowie or chopper right out of the gate. A 3-4" blade made from stock no thicker than 1/8" makes a great cutter and you're less likely to drive yourself crazy trying to keep it straight and even.
Click to expand...

hahaha yeh mate i know that for sure, i would love a big camp knife/bowie type beast but start small, and working my way up, first knife will be a small drop point most likely :D

Same here Bruce, as well as Alpha Knife Supply. But shipping to Australia might be problematic for this fellow.

Australia must have industrial supply companies, yes? They should be able to get you O1, D2, A2 and 440C if not others. All four make good knives.
Click to expand...

yes we turn out some of the worlds best but in saying that, the steel used in knife making from what ive been looking into is expensive, ie $90 for a 1m piece of 40mm wide D2 steel, so ive found its not only cheaper to buy from the states but also i can get everything i need, woods, glues, pins, guards, and it works out cheaper because i can buy everything in one go, shipped in one go also, will see if this store alpha knife supply ships to australia, if not i will buy from http://www.knifemaking.com/
 
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