Hand plane blades

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DanH45

Joined
Feb 12, 2015
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248
Hi all, I'd like to make up some hand plane irons (blades). Any recommendations for steel?

Only setup for heat treat of high carbon stuff at the moment, so maybe 1084 or W2; but could send out if O1, A2, etc. Any thoughts?

How about chisels and carving tools?

Thanks
 
This is about like asking what steel to make a knife out of. It will help if you tell us more about your intended use for the tools.

High carbon steel is the traditional material, tough enough and easy to sharpen. If you are working abrasive or particularly hard wood, then another alloy might be superior.
 
Well I know veritas and LN tend to use A2, I have heard of aftermarket blades being O1 as well. People claim old record planes had a vanadium steel. Many vintage blades are marked simply "tool steel".

Use would be normal furniture making in a home shop. Typical domestic hardwoods.
 
A2 and O1 are popular. Many old irons are W2. Those who like high end Japanese tools prefer Hitachi blue or white steel. 1095 or 52100 would also work.

In truth, with a proper HT, all the above will make good plane irons. Chisels and carving tools use the same group of steels.
 
Thanks Stacy, do you think simple 1084 or W2 would work well then. Is one better than the other? Should I get 1095 or some other easy HT steel instead?
 
I like 52100 for woodworking tools, just an opinion though. So many steels would work great. What kind of plane? I guess you could go with tougher steel if it were a scrub plane or something hitting rougher and dirtier wood, but really I don't think you'll notice much of a difference in general.
 
I have used a hand plane for many many hours hand planning bamboo strips for bamboo fly rods. O1, A2, 1095 and W2 all are excellent.
 
Thanks Adam, the experience in use related to alloy is good info!

Park, i guess I forgot to include what type plane; thinking rabbeting planes, smoothing planes, possibly chisel planes.
 
If I had to suggest one steel for a plane iron, it would be Hitachi blue. That is mainly because it is a good quality steel, and partly because the name has cachet. W2 would be just as good.
With a HT to get fine grain and full hardness, followed by a sufficient temper, both of these steels can shave tissue paper thin slices of wood.

Again, A2, O1, W2, 1095, Hitachi blue - all will make superb irons with the right HT and geometry.

1084 would work fine, but isn't quite as good as the above. I doubt anyone but a master carpenter could tell the difference. To be honest, any simple steel above 1070 will probably make a fine iron.

People get too hung up on the "best" steel for this and that. The main item you need to be "best" at is HT and geometry, not the steel type.
 
Thanks Stacy! The main descision for me was between 1084 and W2 (which I have) or to buy sonething else. And, to heat treat myself or send out.

I'm not really hung up on type and know a variety will work well for any given application. But I'm still really new to blade making. So the advice is always appreciated.

Fwiw, my favorite, and sharpest knives in my collection (production made) are A2 (older blackjacks).
 
i would choose O1 or A2 mainly because of the sizes offered. you should be able to find a piece where all you have to do is cut it to length. if you go to a wood working forum where they discuss hand planes, it usually 50-50 as to which is better, O1 or A2. for a first attempt i would use O1 because it usually half the price of A2. 80CrV2 would also be a good candidate.
scott
 
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