Handle Modifications... The Complete Guide (Hopefully)

Guyon

Biscuit Whisperer
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I wanted to see if we might collectively amass a good, comprehensive thread on handle modifications. You know... one that you could link up when folks ask about this topic. It comes up fairly often, and it will continue to come up. I think it would be nice to have a thread with lots of good pics so we don't have to reinvent the wheel every time.

I've seen some really cool modifications lately, and I want to encourage folks to post up pictures of any modifications they've done or even modifications they've seen in other people's posts (being sure to give credit where credit is due). I've got a few in mind myself, but I'll first give the originators a chance to post up their mods. Grivory or micarta... doesn't matter. Even total reworks of scales are welcome here.

Here's one of the simplest mods I often bring up: the inner tube addition. And I'll say the same thing I always say. Stretch it on there with your knife in the sheath so you don't get cut.

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I'll stick this for a while, hopefully, it will gain some momentum.

Guys, keep it to handle mods only please, we may do something for modded knives, but for now, handles only here.

Moose
 
Good idea!

I took a wood file to mine. I think it handles very will with it just ruffed up a little bit, and a good lanyard. :thumbup: You can sort of see it, but I'll take a better pic and post that one later.

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(Stippling with a soldering iron and some stainless steel hardware is always a nice cheap mod)

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(Adding handle liners to some of the thinner blades can both look good and make the handle a better fit for those with large hands. All I did to make this was take the handle slab off and trace it on to some thin plastic I had found, but you can also you a colored DVD case. So trace it, cut it out, and sandwich it in there.)
 
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rit liquid fabric dye and micarta.

1. warm up (coffee sipping hot is enough, no need to actually boil it) 5 cups of water or enough to cover the scales completely. turn off the heat source.
2. add about half a cup of rit liquid fabric dye (powder works fine too but it takes longer to mix it well) to the warm water and mix.
3. toss in the scales and stir occasionally and let it soak for 10 minutes or so.
4. rinse the scales in cold, running water until water runs clear. dry and use.

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a few notes:
1. it's a permanent fabric dye. it won't stain your hands when you get the scales wet.
2. there's no exact recipe for the water to dye ratio. add more dye to darken the scales.
3. not all micarta are the same. some will soak up the dye and turn really black right away but some won't. you can re-soak multiple times to get it to turn really black...or whatever color you chose.
4. some scales (like the esee knives) have liners on the micarta. don't get the water too hot or you'll warp the liner or soften the glue holding it in place. if it does warp, no big deal...put the scales on the knife, tighten down the screws and once it dries everything is back to normal. don't leave the warped liner to dry off the knife or else it'll stay warped. use the knife to compress it back to flat while it dries.
5. rit dye will dye pretty much anything porous so use stainless steel kitchenware and carefully pour the dye liquid, avoiding splashing.


PLEASE NO CHATTING ON THIS THREAD!.
if you have a question regarding any of these mods, please start a new thread.
 
Okay, I'm going to add in a few from threads past and use the quote function.
This way, people can follow the info trail into the original threads if they so choose.

Here are some Amboyna Burl scales done by OREGON FAL'ER:


And here are some bamboo scales that OREGON FAL'ER did:

And this Bamboo. Went for the fast look on these.



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Some more stippling, along with scale liners, done by 80 sgyrene:

Just did these last nite. Stippled & added the liners.
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The extra thickness demanded new stainless hardware.

Here are some Cocobolo and Bocote scales that Marathonman did for Quarter Tank:

Marathonman did a SICK job!!!!

cant wait to get my hands on these!

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Cocobolo scales done by LostinTN:
I started on these a few weeks ago. My first try was pretty close, but once I got to putting them on the blade the holes didn't line up. I ended up re-doing the backside (the one with the nuts). I'm happy with the outcome, though I really, really wish I could find some 10/32 black screws that I don't have to buy in bulk. The original ones are too short.





And with my LMF
 
Wilson Tennis Racket Wrap. Super Comfy, Super Cheap, non-permanent handle "mod"

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Here are some cool mods to Grivory done by septer with a rotary burr and die grinder:
Rotary burr, die grinder, a few beers and some imagination.Here are a few more pics.

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Athletic wrap,cohesive tape, pet tape.....leaves no residue
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Athletic wrap,cohesive tape, pet tape.....leaves no residue
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:thumbup: :thumbup:

ETA: slapper, you posted up while I was gathering info from your thread. Thanks for clarifying the names of this stuff:

THIS IS NOT HOCKEY TAPE!!
here is a cheap mod that can be there when you need it, and gone when you don't...no commitment required.:thumbup:

I found this stuff back when i played hockey, i didn't like the sticky feeling of hockey tape and the residue it left behind.:(

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It is stretchy so you can adjust the firmness/cushiness!
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It's offers great traction!
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you can use the same piece over and over( this is the same piece throughout).
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you can store it anywhere, bring a piece with you just in case you find the need.
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it's cohesive tape(the same stuff that is used for athletic bandages).
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It also comes in many colors. the only downside is that it doesn't last too terribly long. Hope this helps.;)
 
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Wilson Tennis Racket Wrap. Super Comfy, Super Cheap, non-permanent handle "mod"

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:thumbup: :thumbup:

Before his tennis racket wrap and micarta days, C_Tanner first tried some black hockey tape on Grivory:


But then he decided to go with some soldering iron action:

The hockey tape wasn't doin' it for me.

Since I plan on getting the Micarta anyway, I figured it was time to take my new baby (24 hours old!) and improve the grip.

I'm sure you guys have already figured this out, but anyway...

I heated up my $4.99 Harbor Freight solder Iron and then first tested it on a volunteer: A Cold Steel Black Rock Hunter. I wanted to get a feel for how the iron burned the grivory first. Very easy actually!

And so out came the Becker. Now the horribly slippery factory handles are grippy as HELL. This will do just fine till I get the new ones!!

Not often I'd take a chance like that with a brand new knife. But those handles were so slick, there was nowhere to go but up.

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I modified my BK7 handle a couple years ago. I wish I had some better pics but I recently turned the knife over to my son who is in the Navy.

I work for an auto paint company so I put an automotive grade finish on the handle scales with Texture Additive in it. The additive is basically tiny plastic beads and was used to match the textured finish of the old bumper strips on cars.

Sanded off the original Desert camo finish, repainted, and baked.

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The color is a very dark gray just to give it a unique look.
 
Tom from Chestnut Ridge shared some great pics of the handle mods they do in shop:
They would end up looking like this in Orange G-10. And you would have to send your knife to us.

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Here is an outstanding post by pietje on how he did his handle mods:

hi there!

Years ago I got myself a Camillus BK7 love it but the handle just was to slick and when my hands go wet it got impossible for me to use the knife safely. So I modified the handle. The same story with the Kabar BK7 I bought a month back. Lovely knife with the very nice big ego handle but to slick.


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Camillus square pattern
I moderated the handles of a Camillus BK7 by using a iron saw and sandpaper. I made the square pattern as seen on the picture. It improved the grip drastic and the knife is used in every weather we got over here!

- Remove the handles.
- I sanded the handle more round so it would feel better. Especially around the pommel so a 3-finger grip can be used during chopping with full control and comfort.
- The square pattern was drawned free-hand with a pencil followed by the saw. depth around 0,5-1 mm max
- With sandpaper I made the grip profile more smooth and less edgy. For gloved hands you can keep the edges made by the saw.


kabar round pattern
For the Kabar BK7 I just did a second mod with the standard Becker handles. A round pattern this time. It is pretty easy and looks great when you pay a lil attention. The grip is phenomenal!

- Remove the handles.
- I sanded the handle more round so it would feel better. Especially around the pommel so a 3-finger grip can be used during chopping with full control and comfort.
- I made a template using mm paper (see picture). Pierced the paper with a pencil,tape the tamplate to the handle and dwawed it unto the handles.
- With a round tip of a soldering iron I made the pre-drill holes. But a paperclip and candle will do the trick also.
- With a 12v hand drill and a 4mm steel drill bit I followed the lil holes. Don’t overdo this because the handle material is not very thick!! I put tape around the drill bit so the tip is uses only. depth around 1-2 mm max
- Remove the edges with a larger drill bit that u use in your hand. Twist between your fingers with very little pressure. I used a 8mm. This is optional to do.


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Both handle mods are done with basic tools and skill. The both improve the grip a lot even in wet conditions. I equally like the round one more!

Most of my knife have modded handles. Sand them more round, put a pattern on them them, remove unwanted corners/edges and/or just improve the comfort in different grips. Some others I have done: Micarta of a Ontario-RAT TAK, FRN of a several Byrd’s, Mora Plastic and Kraton G from a Kabar bowie.

I like to see your modifications! stippeling, wood, micarta....does not have to be a Becker.
 
More stippling done by ahiredgun:

If you're like me and find the handle on the BK2 a little too smooth and slippery, but you can't or won't come off the hip for a set of micartas, you may want to consider stippleing the handle. The handle on the BK models is plastic with a fancy name and will stipple quite easily. I used a cheap wood burner that I had bought from Lowe's, and a medium point tip. You want to tap the handle with the wood burner tip createing small dimples as you work. Use a fast tapping motion and overlap the pattern as you go. It took me, roughly, two hours to do the complete handle. When you're finished, you may find that the handle will have some sharp points. Take some fine grit sand paper and buff down the sharp edges until you get it to your likeing. Remember, if you decide to do this, it's permanent, so you may want to practice with a peice of plastic you don't want to help decide which tip you want to use and get your technique down pat. For me, this has really helped me keep a firm grip on my knife.

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And some similar stippling on Bushman5's LandShark!

Another Bush Lab Designs modified Kabar/Becker BK2. I set this one up for woods use. I affectionately call it the "LandShark"

it now has:

- "Shark eye" billy can lifter notch/wire breaker
- "Sharks Mouth": double cut shark teeth serrations on the sweep of the tip, for making fine curly shavings from fatwood or ripping thru rope
- "pelvic fin" cord/thread/fishing line cutter notch
- "shark skin" textured scales
- Dorsal fin: firesteel notch
- Adipose fins: thumb jimpings

:D

Shark Eye billy pot lifter/wire breaker (on top) , Sharks mouth rope slicing/chopping teeth (bottom)
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Dorsal Fin firesteel notch (in front of Adipose fin jimping)
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Pelvic Fin cord/line cutter:
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Shark Skin stippling on scales
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:cool:
 
I'm also going to include this old 2003 nugget from BladeandBarrel, who once worked for Mike Stewart at Blackjack.
It's just text, but he offers up a couple of ideas we don't see regularly in this conversation.
People used to advocate sand blasting a lot when the topic came up in W&SS, but I'm yet to find a good pic of sand blasted Grivory.
I am a little dubious about the 1/4" per side figure in #4 though.

I have been using and working with Ethan Becker's superlative handle design for over 10 years now, and I have read several threads where folks want aftermarket, or modified handle scales to suit themselves a bit better.

There are several ways you can modify your BKT handles without destroying them, that will enhance grip/traction if that is what you desire or change their shape/feel in subtle ways.

1)Sandblasting-changes the texture of the Becker handle to a velvety "frosted" feel that adds a lot of grip without being too tacky. This is my #1 recommendation for people who want more traction. It doesnt damage the tough GV6H grips and looks good too.

2)SprayGrit. You can buy spray grit at the hardware store that embeds tiny sand/abrasive particles in a painted finish. It works.
It may be a good option for the smaller knives as I wouldnt want to use it on a chopper.

3)PlastiDip or other rubbery materials. You can use plastidip on your scales for more grip. It will not stay on there long, but it does work.

4)Reducing scale width. YOu can reduce the width of the scales somewhat by placing the flat back on a belt sander. Almost 1/4" per side can be removed with no adverse effects. A good mod for people with really small hands.

5)Cord-Wrap. I have seen some really nice cord wrapping done to BKT Knives in the past with epoxy coat on top-a real indestructible handle with unbeatable grip qualities. Also not good for a chopper as the cord will eat your hand up in short order.

Some options here. Let me know what you think.

My favorite is the sandblasted, unmodified BKT handle.
It was my favorite almost a decade ago when I worked at Blackjack, and is my favorite now.
 
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