HAP40 Stretch

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Lucked out at work and was able to head to the post office. Awesome...







Superb laminate job on the rear side. I'm pretty ignorant to the cladding process, but looks like on the show side it's almost "running out" of HAP40 near the base. Would this mean after several sharpenings I'll be grinding into the SUS 410? Or one side of the edge will be HAP40 and the other side of the edge SUS 410? Would probably take awhile to get there though but just curious.
 
uofaengr said:
Superb laminate job on the rear side. I'm pretty ignorant to the cladding process, but looks like on the show side it's almost "running out" of HAP40 near the base. Would this mean after several sharpenings I'll be grinding into the SUS 410? Or one side of the edge will be HAP40 and the other side of the edge SUS 410? Would probably take awhile to get there though but just curious.
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No. Remember the Hap40 is sandwiched between the 410. You could sharpen that knife all the way up to the spine and you would still be cutting with Hap40. Of course by then it would be so short it would be virtually unusable.
 
ToxicBot11 said:
No. Remember the Hap40 is sandwiched between the 410. You could sharpen that knife all the way up to the spine and you would still be cutting with Hap40. Of course by then it would be so short it would be virtually unusable.
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Oh ok thanks a lot for the info. I knew it was sandwiched, but had assumed incorrectly that the only usable HAP40 or Super Blue was that "below the line". What would be the reasoning then for not trying to take the laminate as close to the edge as possible? Or is it just part of the process and something that's hard to control?
 
uofaengr said:
Oh ok thanks a lot for the info. I knew it was sandwiched, but had assumed incorrectly that the only usable HAP40 or Super Blue was that "below the line". What would be the reasoning then for not trying to take the laminate as close to the edge as possible? Or is it just part of the process and something that's hard to control?
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To get the outer steel any closer to the edge, you would have to use a very thin piece of hap40. Then you would also risk the outer steel reaching all the way to the edge bevel which would mean always sharpening a mixture of hap40 and 410. It would work I suppose, but could create edge stability issues as the laminate is a much softer steel.

Disclaimer- These are just my speculations. ;)
 
I can't say for certain and I'm just speculating here. To give the blade any real strength they needed to have the Hap40 blade steel be a minimum thickness. Then the 410 is applied over that.

The wavering lines you are seeing could be due the variances between the Hap40 thickness, 410 thickness and the variances between how thick each blade is ground. Remember these are production knives so they aren't all going to be exactly the same. The differences are tiny.

They could also be made that way to make each one unique. Like snowflakes.
 
Great info, everyone. Always interested to learn more on these new processes. Really liking the ergos on the Stretch. I thought the Endura was too large, and the handle never really felt right to me, but the Stretch is just right. It also has a slightly heavier, quality feel to it.

I love the Delica big time, but this feels higher quality to me and like a real workhorse. Very smooth and probably the smoothest FRN Spyderco I've experienced. And Spyderco factory edges just put every other company's to shame. Great knife.
 
mapper66 said:
Well nice, I just happened on this one on Ebay. Good price as well.

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You got a Great price on that! Just a buck over retail with priority..

Got mine today! (Tracking said tomm)
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Laminates are just about perfect..

Pretty stoked about this one! The Stretch, that is..
Alot of good talk about them around here and now I know why!
Very smooth and feels Great, in hand..

And what a awesome steel, to give one a try... [emoji106] [emoji41]
 
Yeah, plenty annoyed with BladeHQ's email notification process. There are lots of great retailers out there that will get my money until they decide to do something different.

Congrats to everyone that has picked one up so far.
 
I was really impressed that mine came with a little note and a waterproof writing pad. They shipped my order the next day with 2 day priority. It's hard to be a grumpy old man with service like this.

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It's rained almost every day for the last two months, so pretty much all of Oregon has cabin fever and needs to get outside.

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Can anyone that has received their knife measure the thickness behind the edge with calipers? My CF ZDP Stretch is thin enough to be .019" behind the edge bevel sharpened at only 7 degrees per side. Let factory knives would be nearly double that thick at such an acute angle. I'm just hoping the HAP 40 Stretches are similarly thin to my CF ZDP model.
 
Measured on the bottom with the knife open in inches.

HAP40 - .108
ZDP - .110
SB - .120

EDIT: I also get .019 right after the edge along most of the grind. Different stock, same grind?
 
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As for tips for using a knife. Never have a tight grip and hold it between your thumb and forefinger for maximum movement and flexibility and if defending against one, where possible, just get away. If you have no choice, always keep your eyes on the persons upper body, never the knife, grab the knife by the handle (never the blade obviously) or take control of their arm by the wrist and stun them, but most of all, never underestimate the damage that the knife can do, they are more lethal than a bullet!
 
gunmike1 said:
Can anyone that has received their knife measure the thickness behind the edge with calipers? My CF ZDP Stretch is thin enough to be .019" behind the edge bevel sharpened at only 7 degrees per side. Let factory knives would be nearly double that thick at such an acute angle. I'm just hoping the HAP 40 Stretches are similarly thin to my CF ZDP model.
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.022" behind the 14 DPS I just put on. Just did all that work but I'm so happy with the responsiveness of the steel that I'm going to go regrind it right now.
 
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