- Joined
- Oct 22, 2018
- Messages
- 50
So I recently purchased a KME sharpener and I like it a lot. I have the diamond stones, stand, and some stops that I made up for it using glass blanks with basswood, balsa, and also leather. Some are on glass blanks some are on basswood blanks. The stops and their blocks they are attached to were made by me and are withing Half a millimeter in thickness of the kme stones so angle should be dead on even though they're on a new carrier. I also have a few made up that I use to put ryken 3k and 5k wet sandpaper on. Those seem to work way better tho if I just double side tape them to the back of my 1500 grit hone that I removed the sticker from.
So I guess my question is, I worked for a long time (2 hours probably) last night on my delica. I took this long because it was a full reprofile down to 15dps. I was VERY careful this time around, I made sure to not spend too much time in one place while trying to get my apex and remove sharpie. I did it a lot like how Brian from KME does, which is to say, even time per side, not spending too much time in one spot of the blade, til all sharpie is removed so as to keep my bevel consistent across the blade. This was a good idea because it worked a lot better than in the past. (I put a flat spot on my kizer dukes) and once sharpie was removed, I then formed my burr removed flipped removed and kept my lines very consistent then onto the next grit. I consistently checked with 40x loupe throughout the entire process that there was no wire edge or burr and by the 1500 diamond it was screaming sharp. Not sure if it could whittle hair cuz I didnt want to remove it from the stand and try to perfectly find its placement. It couldn't cut free floating hair though but the edge seemed to to perfect at least when viewed though my 40 x loupe.
Challenge I seem to be having is maintaining a super sharp blade once I get past the 1500 extra fine diamond. I moved onto 3k then 5k ryken paper but they were on the basswood blocks whick I made. Just used down strokes this time and used some 3 in 1 oil on them to help with polishing. I used only down strokes and since they aren't on an aluminum block that means almost zero pressure. After the 3 and 5 K it just didn't "feel" as sharp. Under mag it looked very consistent and very sharp. So I kept at it.... Tried using a basswood blank on its own, leather strop on its own and then the basswood with green compound, and even used some mothers mag polish on a basswood strop and with all of these metal was being removed as it was blackening the strops but the knife seemed to almost get duller the more I tried. I did not spend a long time stropping, maybe 15 minutes between all strops so like 40 light passes per side at most.
So after I was done it was shined up pretty good but didn't feel that sharp. It could cross slice paper towel but it needed help. So I ended up just cutting in a 20dps microbevel using my 600 and finished it on the 1500 and called it a day.
So what happens here? Is it because I just don't know what a 5,000 grit finished blade should feel like? Because I know that the 1500 almost "feels" duller to me after leaving the sharpener than the 600 does.
Could it be because I used 3 in 1 oil on the sandpaper?
Or was it all down to rolling over my edge? I'm pretty sure that's how it ended up being convex cuz it really seemed to have very little bite.
Or, is it more likely that it had to do with me not using the appropriate backer for the paper. Remember I used a basswood block, not glass or a kme blank this time.
I'm guessing it's the last one bit any advice would be appreciated.
So I guess my question is, I worked for a long time (2 hours probably) last night on my delica. I took this long because it was a full reprofile down to 15dps. I was VERY careful this time around, I made sure to not spend too much time in one place while trying to get my apex and remove sharpie. I did it a lot like how Brian from KME does, which is to say, even time per side, not spending too much time in one spot of the blade, til all sharpie is removed so as to keep my bevel consistent across the blade. This was a good idea because it worked a lot better than in the past. (I put a flat spot on my kizer dukes) and once sharpie was removed, I then formed my burr removed flipped removed and kept my lines very consistent then onto the next grit. I consistently checked with 40x loupe throughout the entire process that there was no wire edge or burr and by the 1500 diamond it was screaming sharp. Not sure if it could whittle hair cuz I didnt want to remove it from the stand and try to perfectly find its placement. It couldn't cut free floating hair though but the edge seemed to to perfect at least when viewed though my 40 x loupe.
Challenge I seem to be having is maintaining a super sharp blade once I get past the 1500 extra fine diamond. I moved onto 3k then 5k ryken paper but they were on the basswood blocks whick I made. Just used down strokes this time and used some 3 in 1 oil on them to help with polishing. I used only down strokes and since they aren't on an aluminum block that means almost zero pressure. After the 3 and 5 K it just didn't "feel" as sharp. Under mag it looked very consistent and very sharp. So I kept at it.... Tried using a basswood blank on its own, leather strop on its own and then the basswood with green compound, and even used some mothers mag polish on a basswood strop and with all of these metal was being removed as it was blackening the strops but the knife seemed to almost get duller the more I tried. I did not spend a long time stropping, maybe 15 minutes between all strops so like 40 light passes per side at most.
So after I was done it was shined up pretty good but didn't feel that sharp. It could cross slice paper towel but it needed help. So I ended up just cutting in a 20dps microbevel using my 600 and finished it on the 1500 and called it a day.
So what happens here? Is it because I just don't know what a 5,000 grit finished blade should feel like? Because I know that the 1500 almost "feels" duller to me after leaving the sharpener than the 600 does.
Could it be because I used 3 in 1 oil on the sandpaper?
Or was it all down to rolling over my edge? I'm pretty sure that's how it ended up being convex cuz it really seemed to have very little bite.
Or, is it more likely that it had to do with me not using the appropriate backer for the paper. Remember I used a basswood block, not glass or a kme blank this time.
I'm guessing it's the last one bit any advice would be appreciated.