Having layout dye problems

J. Doyle

J. Doyle

Knifemaker / Craftsman / Service Provider
Joined
Feb 17, 2008
Messages
8,148
Lately, I've been having problems when I go to scribe lines on my blides for grinding the bevels. I've always used starrett layout dye and still do for the moment. Lately when I try to scribe the lines, the dye just flakes off in pieces and can even be wiped off with my hand. The dye is a new bottle. I've shaken it up good. I've tried scribing right after I dye the edge and also waiting a whole day to let the dye dry. It's doing it on all my blades and I've tried using a sharpie marker with the same results. It's suddenly almost impossible to get nice clean scribe lines.

Is the tip on my scriber dull? Anyone have any ideas? Thanks for any input.
 
did you clean metal with alcohol first?
 
I have a similar problem with Sparyon Ultra Blue Layout Dye, but for me it doesn't flake off it peals off. I have tried cleaning the steel with alcohol and acetone and get the same results. It has done this with every steel I have, 1084, O1, 5160, and a piece of 1084/15N20 damascus. I have given up on the sprayon dye and went back to marker till I can get some dykem layout dye, I never had a problem with dykem
 
Thanks guys. I haven't been cleaning the steel off at all. Maybe some kind of oil or grease on it that needs taken off. I'll give that a shot.
 
unky_gumbi said:
I have a similar problem with Sparyon Ultra Blue Layout Dye, but for me it doesn't flake off it peals off. I have tried cleaning the steel with alcohol and acetone and get the same results. It has done this with every steel I have, 1084, O1, 5160, and a piece of 1084/15N20 damascus. I have given up on the sprayon dye and went back to marker till I can get some dykem layout dye, I never had a problem with dykem
Click to expand...

I have the exact same results with the spray on stuff. I was all stoked to be able to speed up theprocess too.:barf:
 
If you get Dykem on too thick, it will also flake when you scribe. I would assume they are all similar. The Dykem spray was the best I have ever used, but I can't find it anymore.
 
Raymond Richard said:
I haven't owned any lay out dye for years. I just use a black felt tip pen.
Click to expand...

+1 Especially since they started ordering these at work;)

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~Chip
 
I use dykem and make sure the steel is clean before I apply it. I put on a thin coat and then spray it with the air hose. This flash dries it and I can start working with it in just about a minute. The steel does have to be clean first though.
 
I have found that even after cleaning surface with soap, alcohol, acetone I still had flaking problems. I started using windex with bleach and got much better results. The dykem seems to stay on better.
Chip Kunkle
 
Is it layout fluid, or staining fluid?

Staining fluid sucks.

Dykem layout fluid, thin, on a pretty clean surface is hard to beat.
 
Dykem has never given me any problems. I have cases of it here. :D

Blue for machine work, and red for high heat.

Mike
Maker
The Loveless Connection Knives
 
Thanks for the replies everyone.

I tried cleaning the blades first with a swab of alcohol. Worked like a charm.

I've been using cutting/tapping oil lately to thread the ends of tangs and drill holes. It's been on my hands and evidently, in turn, on the blades.

Soon as I cleaned the blades, I was back to getting nice clean scribe lines. Thanks again.
 
lacquer thinner, after wire-wheel cleaning works good. I also use the Starrett blue layout dye as a rust preentive after cleaning. My biggest user of the rust preventive? The starrett steel tools made from NON stainless steel. I've got $300 rulers that are UNREADABLE . . . .CLEANED UP, SPRAYED WITH star blue layout that I leave on (and can still see through) It's ugly, but U can still read the hundredth of an inch scribes on the steel rulers.

2) Where can I get titanium the cheapest? I am a musical instrument maker and I am building a stand-up bass, using a piece of magnesium 1/2" thick x 2" x 18" long for the neck with a standard orchestra piece of ebony ($300) for the fingerboard. I would prefer to use the titanium, as I think it is lighter, and definitely stronger . . . . any tips?
 
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