Having trouble sharpening my GEC

sogflash

sogflash

Joined
Aug 28, 2011
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After using mostly modern folders for a while I wanted to use some traditional knives. Some of them were put away a little dull a while ago, others had a good edge and a leather strop made them even better.

Using diamond stones freehand I really struggled getting an acceptable edge on them. So I tried some sandpaper on a flat surface, and then on a mouse pad for a convex edge. It was rather frustrating removing material without ending up with a decent edge.

Is there any trick to sharpening thin 1095 blades that I've forgotten? Getting frustrated probably didn't help my sharpening skills.
 
Not sure of your technique, but 1095 is significantly softer than a super steel, so is it possible you are using too much pressure On your strokes? Another aspect is that any residue from a harder steel knife on your sharpening material may be interfering with the softer 1095.
 
I use a Hard Arkansas followed by a Translucent Arkansas. (You don’t need anything bigger than a 4x2 stone, and usually a pocket stone is enough. Light pressure and lots of strokes as JTB5 suggests. It’s a very different steel. Maybe stay with a toothier edge, as well.
 
Totally missed that sogflash was using a diamond plate. 1095 is way too soft for diamonds! I wouldn’t touch 1095 with a diamond plate coarser than 1200 and even then with no pressure at all. Buy a cheap 1095 knife on eBay and practice.
 
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It certainly could be the diamonds and over pressure. I bought a set years ago to tackle Queen's notoriously blunt & hard D2, I carried over the firm approach to some GEC carbons and found disappointing results. Take it light.
 
As mentioned, Diamond stones will do it fine, light pressure for 1095 then I suggest Stropping with Green Chrome compound on leather. I suggest you also buy a 10X eye Loupe like a Jeweler uses to see, what you’re doing ..Make sure you’re getting the wire off as others have mentioned! Stay safe & have fun!
 
I find it easy to sharpen with a large bench strop, green compound, and slow, light strokes. Very low pressure is the key for me.
 
I’m not sure, but I imagine a honing rod will remove the “burr” from sharpening.
 
JTB_5 said:
I’m not sure, but I imagine a honing rod will remove the “burr” from sharpening.
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It will, but you have to get the angle right. It's always about the angles.:rolleyes::thumbsup:. Most people cannot use a sharpening steel/rod because they cannot get or keep a consistent angle, eg. you sharpen at 15deg. on a stone, then on the sharpening steel they are between 12-22deg on each pass. Those TV chefs:eek::rolleyes: don't help, trying to impress everybody with how quickly they can SHARPEN their knife, they look like a Samurai warrior, and all the people at home watching try to do it.. Sorry for rambling and getting off track. Yes to your question, and you have a good weekend.:thumbsup:
 
cudgee said:
It will, but you have to get the angle right. It's always about the angles.:rolleyes::thumbsup:. Most people cannot use a sharpening steel/rod because they cannot get or keep a consistent angle, eg. you sharpen at 15deg. on a stone, then on the sharpening steel they are between 12-22deg on each pass. Those TV chefs:eek::rolleyes: don't help, trying to impress everybody with how quickly they can SHARPEN their knife, they look like a Samurai warrior, and all the people at home watching try to do it.. Sorry for rambling and getting off track. Yes to your question, and you have a good weekend.:thumbsup:
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Thanks, and I agree that the visual showmanship can discourage proper technique. I have a Shun rod that I finish with after my stones. It always seems to give me just a little bit better edge than when I use the stones alone. I’ve never really been good at “detect the burr” but I do run the blade through wood to try and remove any stray material.
 
JTB_5 said:
Thanks, and I agree that the visual showmanship can discourage proper technique. I have a Shun rod that I finish with after my stones. It always seems to give me just a little bit better edge than when I use the stones alone. I’ve never really been good at “detect the burr” but I do run the blade through wood to try and remove any stray material.
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Sounds like whatever you are doing works for you, that is all you have to worry about.:thumbsup: Run your thumb up the blade to the edge, if there is a pronounced burr you will feel it, just takes practice, you can also use your thumb nail, it will just catch. It is all down to practice and feel. But if i can suggest, as previously posted, get a jewelers loupe, or good magnifying glass, it will open up a whole new world for your sharpening. When you can see the scratch marks and see what it all looks like, makes a huge difference. It will also teach you so much about burrs, you can actually see them under magnification, and when you can see what is happening, not only makes you better skilled, but sharpening becomes so much more enjoyable.:):thumbsup:
 
cudgee said:
Sounds like whatever you are doing works for you, that is all you have to worry about.:thumbsup: Run your thumb up the blade to the edge, if there is a pronounced burr you will feel it, just takes practice, you can also use your thumb nail, it will just catch. It is all down to practice and feel. But if i can suggest, as previously posted, get a jewelers loupe, or good magnifying glass, it will open up a whole new world for your sharpening. When you can see the scratch marks and see what it all looks like, makes a huge difference. It will also teach you so much about burrs, you can actually see them under magnification, and when you can see what is happening, not only makes you better skilled, but sharpening becomes so much more enjoyable.:):thumbsup:
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It’s a little embarrassing to admit it, but I have a jewelers loupe and just have been too lazy to pull it out. I’ve been able to get good results without it, so it has been something I’ve only pulled out when I’ve bee curious about a particular edge I’ve done.
 
You don’t need a loop. Gently and slowly run the blade perpendicular to your thumb nail. When its sharp you will feel in bite in to your nail. Doing this you can easily tell what areas of the blade are sharp and what needs a little more work.
 
Thank you for the tips. No more diamonds for my GEC.

I have a hard Arkansas stone and another double sided stone of unknown origin with what I think is fine and coarse surfaces.

I also have a Spyderco sharpmaker, and the sharpening stones can be laid flat on the plastic base for unguided sharpening. According to Spyderco the stones are high alumina ceramic stones. One pair is medium grit and the other is fine. Would this be useful for sharpening 1095, or should I stick with the Arkansas stone?

I've ordered a jewelers loupe.

What knives would be good to practice with?
 
sogflash said:
Thank you for the tips. No more diamonds for my GEC.

I have a hard Arkansas stone and another double sided stone of unknown origin with what I think is fine and coarse surfaces.

I also have a Spyderco sharpmaker, and the sharpening stones can be laid flat on the plastic base for unguided sharpening. According to Spyderco the stones are high alumina ceramic stones. One pair is medium grit and the other is fine. Would this be useful for sharpening 1095, or should I stick with the Arkansas stone?

I've ordered a jewelers loupe.

What knives would be good to practice with?
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I start with a fine stone (sticks & stones) then deburr on ceramic sticks (colorado beaver teeth). It may take a little time but I have never had a blade that wouldn't shave. I wouldn't go anything higher than a fine grit unless you want to change the angle, have a chipped blade, or are sharpening stainless. The 1095 will take an edge easily and if your not consistent on the angle you hold you will know it. Get a cheep non-stainless blade to practice on.
 
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