Heat source for breaking loctite?

S

Squashfan

Joined
Jun 6, 2012
Messages
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Got some screws that I loctited on the sheath on my Spyderco Street Bowie. The screws are holding the belt clip thing on. I used blue loctite. Now I can't get them free because they aren't slotted. What kind of heat source should I use? Just a cheapo soldering iron?

Thanks!
 
If Loctite is like super glue, try using acetone or nail polish remover soaked on a q-tip. It works well to remove/loosen super glue. Don't know about Loctite Blue.
Rich
 
Blue loctite shouldn't have that much holding power (Not like red !). Try a blow dryer/heat gun on the screws for a little bit. If that doesn't work, put the tip of a hot soldering iron on the screw head for a minute. Either should soften up the loctite enough for it to release.
 
+1 on the soldering iron (small tip). A short touch to the head of each screw will soften the Loctite enough to get them out.
 
I am afraid that I will damage the polymer sheath or the plastic clip the screws are in with a heat gun. Normally, I would break it with a screw driver but the nut is round and just turns. I might have an old cheap woodburning kit around here. I wonder how hot it gets? Doubt it would be enough though.
 
It should. With blue Loctite you shouldn't need much heat.

The best way to find out is to try it.
 
Last edited:
edler9 said:
It should. With blue Loctite you shouldn't need much. The best way to find out is to try it.
Click to expand...

I just tried it and the pen was burning wood but it couldn't even get the screw warm to the touch. I will let the pen warm some more but I won't be surprised if it can't generate thatkind of heat. It is a cheap child's woodburner.
 
Remember- the rest of the knife that the screws are mounted in is acting like a heat sink. It's going to take some time to get the Loctite hot.
 
Squashfan said:
I just tried it and the pen was burning wood but it couldn't even get the screw warm to the touch. I will let the pen warm some more but I won't be surprised if it can't generate thatkind of heat. It is a cheap child's woodburner.
Click to expand...

I had one of those, a long time ago, and hated it for the same reasons. The tips on those woodburners, and on soldering irons, will oxidize very fast when hot; almost immediately, in fact. When it oxidizes, it's ability to transfer heat drops very quickly. If you have a wire brush handy, or some sandpaper, the oxide can be scrubbed off the tip. The 'best' way, with a soldering iron, is to 'tin' the tip of the iron with some solder, while hot, and then wipe the excess solder off onto a wet sponge (you'll hear it 'sizzle' or hiss). The fresh solder tinning on the tip will help transfer heat, and soldering irons work much better this way (sometimes it's all that works).

Heat transfer is also dependant on the tip shape & size. If your woodburner was like the one I had, it's kind of an angular/faceted tip and likely has a very small point, which makes it harder to get good contact.


David
 
I had a Spyderco Native that I couldn't get the screw loose from the pocket clip to move it to left hand carry. I tried soaking it in penetrating oil but nothing worked. So I asked the question here on the Forums and the soldering iron was suggested. I tried it and...voila! It worked. But sheath, don't know.
Blue loctite.
 
edler9 said:
Blue loctite shouldn't have that much holding power (Not like red !). Try a blow dryer/heat gun on the screws for a little bit. If that doesn't work, put the tip of a hot soldering iron on the screw head for a minute. Either should soften up the loctite enough for it to release.
Click to expand...

I had pretty much the same idea. I would use a wood burner on the head of the screw and see if I could hold the burner on for maybe 10 seconds a time and try with a driver until the Loctite is warm and workable.
 
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