Heat treating AEB-L with a torch

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May 29, 2004
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I have been making some slip joints using 15N20 and heat treating with a torch and quench plates. This morning I decided to try heating some AEB-L using mapp gas. I made a blade and heated it as hot as the mapp would go then plate quenched. It got hard enough to skate a file so I tried another piece of scrap and clamped it in the vise and snapped it. Definitely hard but how hard I don't know. I made a spring with the same treatment then torch tempered the blade to approx. 400F and the spring to approx 1000F based on a heat color chart. These knives I am making have not been for sale, they mostly are just piling up on the kitchen counter. I carry a different one every day. I have given a few away (that is a whole 'nother story) but I would like to see them last. I know that I am not reaching the full potential of the AEB-L but I am getting SOMETHING. Has anyone else had any experience treating stainless in this way? TIA, Steve B
 
This is not a good idea. High alloy steels are very sensitive temperature. Heat treating is the most important part of knife making.

Hoss
^^^^^^^This. Use the right equipment, a kiln. AEB-L also needs cryo to get it right.
 
As I said, this is a knife for me. I know this is not the correct heat treat for AEB-L. Right now I have a blade and spring that skate a fIle. I am really asking if anyone else has any experience. I may ultimately not finish this knife but I have nicely fitting liners cut and a pretty decent action and I am going to see where this goes. I assume you all have been following the news and this beer virus has turned off my business phone almost completely so I go into my shop (glass business) every day. I have a lot of time on my hands. I'll let you know how this turns out.

As an after thought I'll say that I have had AEB-L heat treated in the past by Jarod Todd and I have several folder blades and springs as well as several kitchen knives ready to send to him for heat treating. He has done a fine job.
 
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We have someone post threads like this all the time. Some makers give lots of anecdotal evidence for their backyard heat treating. Over the 42 years of making knives, I’ve heard lots of tall tales of all kinds of super duper heat treatments. These stories are what got me and Larrin interested in metallurgy. Larrin now has a PhD in metallurgy. Every time we see heat treating like this it makes us cringe.

Heat treating takes the right equipment along with lots of practice and proper testing. A file is not a good way to test heat treating.

Make the best knives you can make using the best materials and equipment. You can’t make something of value using subpar methods. If you sell or give away knives with poor heat treatments, they will come back to haunt you.

Hoss
 
The short answer is NO, you can't HT AEB-L with a torch. (If your definition of HT is getting a properly hardened and usable blade)
 
I have been making some slip joints using 15N20 and heat treating with a torch and quench plates. This morning I decided to try heating some AEB-L using mapp gas. I made a blade and heated it as hot as the mapp would go then plate quenched. It got hard enough to skate a file so I tried another piece of scrap and clamped it in the vise and snapped it. Definitely hard but how hard I don't know. I made a spring with the same treatment then torch tempered the blade to approx. 400F and the spring to approx 1000F based on a heat color chart. These knives I am making have not been for sale, they mostly are just piling up on the kitchen counter. I carry a different one every day. I have given a few away (that is a whole 'nother story) but I would like to see them last. I know that I am not reaching the full potential of the AEB-L but I am getting SOMETHING. Has anyone else had any experience treating stainless in this way? TIA, Steve B

It’s like doing push-ups with your knees instead of the regular form. Great if you are 80+ years or weight 600 pounds, but almost useless otherwise.
 
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