HELP i got rust spots

D

dbreeze225

Joined
Sep 12, 2014
Messages
84
Hey guys haven't been on lately but i have a question that needs a answer. I have a bunch of swords but the ones in question is 1 DISPLAY katana not functional at all and 2 smaller short swords of fighting knives. Recently i took the display katana down from the shelf. I was bored and decided to put a sharp edge on it. I noticed alot of spotty rusting (also noticed the same on the smaller swords but not as bad). So i tried a little CLR and also LOCTITE rust disolver jelly. Now it did improve it deffinitly but didnt get everything. I am using sand paper and polishing paper as a last resort. So looking on the web i came across the "rust eraser". I found a million different companies making basically the same thing. Has anyone ever used these? First is it hard like a sharpening stone or more of a rubbery material? Are all these different companies basically the same or is one better than another? Should i even bother with this or just go to a high grit sand paper followed by polishing paper (basically extremely high grit paper)? Any tips would be appreciated even if it is not on this product but some other method. THANKS
 
IF your blade is polished (mirror, or close to it), DON'T USE the rust eraser block. Those use a relatively coarse grit of silicon carbide, in a rubber(ish) binder material. If used on a polished blade, it'll reduce the finish to a 'satin' look. For satin-finished blades, that's not necessarily a problem. But it could ruin a mirrored finish very quickly.

Also, if the blade is polished, it should be much easier and safer to use something like Flitz or Simichrome paste polish to take the light rust off. Use a soft, clean rag or an old toothbrush to do the scrubbing with the paste polish.

If the blade isn't polished, some very fine steel wool (#0000) and WD-40 or mineral oil could be used to scrub light rust spots away. Steel wool isn't as hard as cutlery steel, and likely won't pose any risk of scratching hardened cutlery blades. This would likely work on a mirrored blade as well, but go about it carefully, and maybe test a very small spot first, to make sure you don't scratch the mirror.

Sometimes, scrubbing with baking soda can remove light rust; it works especially if there are any pits with rust down in them. A toothbrush could be helpful with that as well. Use a little bit of water with the baking soda, to make it a paste-like consistency, and scrub with that. Baking soda won't scratch the blade's finish at all, but it's still aggressive enough to knock off the much-softer red rust.


David
 
Hey guys so my last post i was having trouble getting rust off of a couple swords well....i got 99.9% of it off if ya look REALLY close there are a couple TINY dots here and there. I don't think i will be able to get that off without sanding and polishing which i really don't want to do. So now my problem is keeping the rust off. I have a couple of functional katana's that i put mineral oil on and it seems to work pritty good. But those ones are kept in the scabbard so you cant see the blade. These other swords either don't have a scabbard or i want to display with the blade showing. Putting mineral oil on them will make it look "oilly and messy" so i have been looking around and i keep coming across "renaissance wax". Has any one used this? how does it work? either way i can only find it online and i know its not much but i don't have the money right now to order. I read that in a pinch carnuba car wax will work and that i have so i used that for now. I was also thinking i have this bottle of liquid silicone (brush on not spray). I don't have my camera to take a pic of it but if you go to " https://sofsole.com/product/liquid_silicone " it shows a pic of it right there. I was wondering if that would work its made to waterproof fabrics like shoes ect.. So its a really thin invisible layer. But i don't know if it can be washed off so i am not sure if i should try it or not. Any one got any ideas on the subject or any other ideas to protect these swords? I know some one will help on this site you guys always do so thanks ahead of time i apprecate it.
-Dave
 
I have eight swords that I use on a regular basis. I'm a competitive fencer so my weapons are constantly being handled, thrown on the ground, beaten on by other swords, etc., etc., .... rough handling. Add to that the fact that I live in a very humid tropical climate in northern Thailand... jungle.... Unprotected, these swords would have a coating of rust in a week (as has happened when I simply forgot to clean a sabre after tournament use.) Two Sabres, three Épée's, three Foils, and all need constant protection from the elements.

The only product I use on my weapons is 'Sentry Solution's' "Marine Tuf-cloth." Following a practice, after knocking off the burrs and dings with a sanding sponge, I rub the blade with the Marine Tuf-cloth, let it dry, then wipe off any excess with a paper towel. Never a speck of rust! After being wiped down, you can't see or feel any coating, but it keeps the steel in beautiful condition.


Stitchawl
 
Amen brother, I totally agree! The stuff is amazing. Actually I apply it from the bottle (4 oz.) with some cotton. I can control how thin or thick I apply it. I live close to salt water and the wind is always blowing so everything rusts and corrodes unless we deal with it constantly. Sentry Solutions Marine Tuff Glide dries to a film, waxy sort of. As Stitchal said he uses the pretreated cloth which is real handy on the go and in the field. It's been out for many years to.
The other reason I use the liquid is that I lube everything with it. Most of you who are familiar with Spyderco's PM 2 know how smooth the blade joint is. Well when I applied it there and to the locking mechanism it felt like ball bearings. It's lubricating ability is outstanding. In the machine shop wear, rust and corrosion are our enemies. So anything we can do to prevent it is our number one priority. This stuff does it. But as you know us blade folk are always pushing the envelope to find the newest and greatest so let us know what all of you think about it and what works best for you.

Happy trails Dave
 
Dave,

I was thinking about how Stitchawl uses Tuf glide with the cloth applicator so I got an old one out I had sitting around for years. It was dried out even though it was in its zip bag. The direction say just add a little mineral spirits and it rejuvenates. I put a little of my liquid stuff in it instead. It works great to so now I'll keep it in my car for on the road use. Actually it applied better than the cotton and no lint either. Thanks Stitch for the reminder.

Have fun guys,

D729
 
D729 said:
Dave,

I was thinking about how Stitchawl uses Tuf glide with the cloth applicator so I got an old one out I had sitting around for years. It was dried out even though it was in its zip bag. The direction say just add a little mineral spirits and it rejuvenates. I put a little of my liquid stuff in it instead. It works great to so now I'll keep it in my car for on the road use. Actually it applied better than the cotton and no lint either. Thanks Stitch for the reminder.

Have fun guys,

D729
Click to expand...

The instructions state that we can either add mineral spirits to re-wet the cloth (which rejuvenates the Tuf-glide solution that has dried,) or refresh the cloth with an application of more Tuf-glide. I've been keeping one of my cloths going for at least 7-8 years, just re-wetting it with mineral spirits. It doesn't seem to be any less effective than a brand new (less than 6 months old) cloth. One of these days I'll probably give it a few drops of Tuf-glide, but more to satisfy my own feeling that I 'should' rather than I 'need to.' As long as I sand down my blades after an afternoon of fighting and before I apply it, the cloth doesn't suffer any physical damage and coats the blade evenly with enough to do the job.

I have four different Marine Tuf-glide cloths, three of which are in use, being carried in different equipment bags, with one unopened package (Living in northern Thailand, I tend to stock up on things I can't get easily when I travel to Europe or the US and bring back.) I keep the users in their own bag, and the bag inside an "Aloksak" heavy-duty plastic bag. Obviously, this combination works well to keep the protection going and going!



Stitchawl
 
+1 for TufGlide and the TufCloth!
I live within a few miles of the ocean and I've never had any of my knives or firearms rust after being treated with TufGlide/TufCloth.
 
WD-40 as some things are hard to beat! i use this stuff on guns/knifes along with a tufcloth coat all things metal.:thumbup:
 
is this marine tufcloth the same as "cape cod metal polishing cloths" or "nevr-dull wadding polish" seem similar i wooked on some sites and the stuff your talking about comes in the same type of lil pouch as the cape cod cloths and it says the same thing about adding mineral spirits if it dries out the cape cod stuff is made from petroleum distillate's i could find a ingredients on the web of the stuff you guys are talking about any ideas?
 
Actually the Sentry Solutions Marine Tuf Glide stuff comes two ways in liquid and in a cloth. It is not a polishing cloth but rather a rust/ corrosion preventer. The liquid will do that to but is a lubricant also. The others you mentioned are not the same at all. eBay has many sellers selling all their different products. I buy from Ecop, best prices and free shipping.
Let us know if you try it, what you think.
 
Fred fantastic site, thanks for sharing. The tests were extremely well done. Frog Lube looks great for rust/corrosion long term prevention, as well as lubrication. I have it and their grease to. I use it in my shaver foil to extend screen cutter life as well as it being non toxic. I still like the Sentry Marine Tuf glide, I wish he did a test on it to. I like it in blade joints and other mechanisms where I don't want it wet to attract stuff.
Thanks for the heads up.
 
I use fluid film or edci for day to day stuff. Hdci for long term protection. Or fuild film without wiping it off.
 
I use Hoppes Weathergaurd. It doesn't collect dust, and keeps steel clean and ready for use. Weathergaurd also doesn't leave any "slick" of silicon. It is petroleum based, so use care not to get excess amounts of it on leather or wood as it will darken. Ballistol is the best for what you want.
 
Sadden said:
I use fluid film or edci for day to day stuff. Hdci for long term protection. Or fuild film without wiping it off.
Click to expand...

Both those products cover all the bases in my book. Went through the lube drawer today. Down to 18 cans and containers of stuff I never use anymore. LOL
 
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