Help me design a "Bushcraft" knife - [CONTEST]

Daniel Koster

www.kosterknives.com
Knifemaker / Craftsman / Service Provider
Joined
Oct 18, 2001
Messages
20,978
****Contest is over now - winner has been announced!****

http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=507303


I've been struggling with this one for some time. It's really hard, philosophically, to top a simple Mora knife. Cheap, sharp, hard-workin. :thumbup:


But, I am now getting asked about it at least 2-3 times a week.


"Ever think of making a bushcraft knife"

"Dan, how's that bushcraft knife coming along."

"Boy, a bushcraft knife would sure make a good companion to your nessmuk design"

...and so on.


I guess I'm kinda dense....:foot:


I can't seem to drum up a design of my own. So, I'm appealing to you - the buyers/users/collectors/etc.

YOU tell ME what a good Bushcraft knife should be....COULD be. ;)


What are the essential elements?

What blade length?

thickness?

grind type?


What kind of handle?



And throw in something you'd like to see incorporated into the design to "make it special". ;)


I'm a big fan (always have been, always will be) of getting customers involved first-hand in the design and implementation of new knife patterns. Sure, I'll put my creative spin to it...but I love working with YOUR ideas.

I'm also a big fan of traditional/ethnic/historic knife patterns - and of breathing new life into age-old designs.


Post your suggestions here...and we'll get the design engines running.

If you're unsure how this works...do a search on WSK on this forum, as well as pig sticker (you'll see what it's all about).



As long as you've posted something that contributes to the design...you are IN the contest. No "me too"s are gonna do it this time....gotta earn your keep. :D


When we get the design finished, I'll hammer one out for the contest and pick a WINNER.

Nothing like a FREE KNIFE, right?
(just for speaking your mind)

:D

So, bring on the suggestions.

Thanks!

Daniel Koster



.
 
I would love to see a 3-4" blade, spear lashing holes, full tang, 1/8" scandi grind, an exposed scraper/hammer and as an added touch,micarta or G10 handle, good carbon steel, a hole to hold the spindle on a bowdrill, like dan gray's ESK. Good luck!

this is probably the worst post number for a draw...
 
3.5 to 4" drop point blade, .18" thick.
A2 steel
convex grind
Olive wood handle
Lanyard hole
Minimal finger guard
Kydex sheath with loop for firesteel
 
it seems like the general consensus is a 3.5-4 inch blade.

from my experience in the field i too would like to see a well made knife with a good convex grind.

i would love to see cocobolo on the handle which would be my choice of material simply because of its natural beauty.

i know there are great many reasons to use kydex for a sheath however for a knife with these characteristics it would be best for the sheath to be leather. a fireloop would be a very nice addition.

for the steel i would think that because alot of woods affect steel differently, a stainless would be best choice.

a choil would be nice to allow a thumb on top grip for doing certain type of work and also to choke up on the blade.

i dont see spear lashing points/holes as a necessity in a bush-knife and think this would be a characteristic more in a survival knife. the point of a bushcraft knife in my opinion is to make things in the woods that will assist you "live" WITH the wild.. not merely survive in it.

thank you for the oppurtunity to input information in to the design of a knife.
 
I would like it about 4" blade, G10 or micarta handles, convex grind with a drop point carbon blade. I'd probably prefer no choil. Would prefer leather sheath, maybe with a couple carry options.
 
Over here in the UK Bushcraft knives allways seem to be the Ray Mears woodlore sort of thing, personally not my favorite. I think blade length 4"to 5", 4mm thick in stainless of some sort with a nice curly maple or hard wood of choice on a full tang, grind should be convex , will try e mail a pidccie of blade shape.
If you like ethnic, what about a Thai e-nep in stainless for those with a bigger bush.

Chris.
maplebush001.jpg
 
Came up with this:




S30V or 5160

G10 scales

Flat grind

Lanyard hole...

a little end cap to crack nuts and stuff

Kydex sheath for horizontal carry like a TOPS Tracker knife
 
Here are 3x designs I drew up.

I like the below specs.

Blade: 4-5", 1/8 or slightly thicker (s/s or carbon)
Grind: As per sketches, but I think scandi works really well for anything!
Handle: Length to match blade, contoured and non slip (bead blasted canvas micarta)
Pins: All hollow to allow for lashing options, s/s
Sheath: Deep pouch style leather with firesteel loop (f/s loop on front of sheath to allow warapping of cord over sheath).

Great comp!

bushcraft.jpg


bushcraft2.jpg
 
I will break from the crowd here.

I feel it should be a spear point. I think that offers more control than a drop point or some type of upswept blade. Also, if it is complimenting the Nessmuck, that is already an upswept design. The spear point makes using the tip easy (easier) for drilling holes, say if you want to make a bow drill, etc. since the point is in the center of the knife.

3.5 - 4 inches. If you go more, then people will only want to choke up on the knife anyway. With that length, no choil. I just think that would be a terrible waste of edge in a knife that size. Edge is what you need in a bushcraft knife.

Scandi grind. I would also go carbon steel. Yes, they are more prone to corrosion, but what is easier--sharpening your knife more often in the field because it's "stainless", or wiping it down after use and sharpening a lot less???

Finally, I would go with micarta handles. I know everyone wants a pretty knife, but I have often heard that a knife is just to pretty to use. These should "beg" to be used. If someone feels that their premium wood might be in jeopardy, then I think they will turn the knife into a closet queen.

I want good design, durable materials with reasonable costs, and high quality workmanship in a knife that is great for what you designed it, and pretty much not that great for any other use. You can't make an "everything" knife here. If you try, I think it will only be a mediocre woodcraft knife at best.
 
1.) Symetrical, spear point blade,( would resemble a large,slightly pointier SAK blade.) carbon steel, just under four inches in length. The spine would be flat, with 90 degree edges that could be sharpened with an edge sharpener if desired.
2.) Full tang, shaped like a squared off dog bone, with holes drilled and tapped at each corner.
3.) simple wooden rectangular slab handles.

Many primitive blades of stone and bone had spear points, and for a modern bushcraft knife the shape is practical for drilling, and slotting material. Some foreign countries seem to allow people to carry knives that are no longer than the width of the persons hand who is questioning you on why you have a knife, so less than 4" blade is a logical choice. Carbon steel is easy to sharpen, and sparks better than stainless does, and since firemaking might be a primary use for a small bushcraft knife, carbon steel makes sense. The flat spine with 90 degree shoulders would be for scraping wooden projects smooth, like bowstaves, pegs, handles of digging sticks or other tools. Yes, the sharp spine can't take as much stress as rounded spines, but the idea behind "bushcraft" is to be able to make tools that can take the stress out of having to rely on your knife for everything.
The dog bone full tang is shaped like a primitive arrowhead so it can be lashed securely to a pole or a long handle for a little extra reach, or better leverage. The holes at each corner are tapped to recieve screws or left smooth for pins or pegs. The butt of the tang would be flat, so if it is used on a pole, it will rest stable in a slot cut at the tip of the pole.
The scales of the handle should be simple hardwood so they can be replaced easily in the field. (Also a reason to use pegs or removable slotted screws.)They can be sacrificed for dry tinder to build a fire, or notched for use as a fire board. Length should be about 4- 4 1/2".
The blade should be thin enough for detailed work, but able to do light prying, and the grind should be 3/4 flat, for ease in field sharpening.
 
Dan,
I cant draw for crap BUT i tend to agree with On the Edge

Me and Steve were talking about this last nite

5/32 thick S30V or 5160
4.5" blade
Nice comfortable handle (think Mears)
Micarta scales with those Busse rivets
Spear point blade
Convex edge
Cut out for fire steel
Kydex sheath with fireloop
Molle sheath for leatherman as an option
 
Greetings Dan,

4" spearpoint taperd flat spine,with a firesteel notch.
4.5" fulltang with two LARGE solid pins + lanyard hole with a rounded tang end.
thickness: 4mm-5mm
steel: O1 or S30V
handle:contoured micarta with a bow drill socket.
super tight ricasso
 
What I'd want.

4" spear point blade.
Convex grind.
Full tang.
1/8 " - 5/32" thick
W2 carbon steel or optional stainless ATS34 or similar high carbon stainless like S30V or VG10.
Hollow pins or removable pins for lashing.
Scales of stabilized wood, dymondwood or micarta.
Small serrated thumb ramp or filework serrations on the spine.
Leather pouch sheath with horizontal carry with firesteel loop.
Possibly a slightly exposed rear tang or metal buttcap.

What I wouldn't want.

A false edge.
Choil.
Anything thicker than 5/32"


I really prefer carbon steel and woods for my knives. Having the option for stainless and synthetic handle material should be an option for damp climates. A kydex sheath could be optional as well. Sort of like your nessies the knife will probably be available with options for several scale and sheath options.
 
The Nessie you made me, with a spear point and an option for sawback and/or partial serrations would be a winner in my book.
 
Here is want I look for in a knife.

1. The knife should have a fixed blade, non-folding.
2. The blade should be made of good quality carbon steel. Carbon, unlike stainless steel can be used as the striker in the flint and steel method of fire lighting.
3. Four to Four and a quarter inch blade with an overall length of eight and a half inches will perform intricate woodcraft duties, and is large enough to present a good target for batoning. Batoning will assist a 4-inch blade in cutting down small trees, and splitting wood.
4. The knife should have a full tang; the metal of the knife blade should extend for the full length of the handle for strength.
5. The knife’s spine should be squared off to be able to spark a FireSteel/ferrocerium rod.
6. The knife needs a comfortable and easy to hold oval shaped handle, made of a water-resistant durable material, like micarta.
7. The handle should be a bright color so the knife can be easily found on the forest floor. I like to stay true to the Mora tradition, and prefer red.
8. The preferred grind is a wide flat bevel that runs to the edge of the blade with no significant secondary bevel, usually the edge bevels only goes 1/3 way up the side of the knife. The result is a very keen edge. This grind gives excellent control in woodcarving. If you carve wood, you will probably find that the flat bevels give you better control of the cut. The wide bevel face lies flat against the wood like a plain and slices wood into fine curls. Working with wood is a must when practicing wilderness living skills. Another advantage is ease of field sharpening. There is no special tool kit or other gadget required to get a razors edge. All that is required is to lay the bevel flat to the stone, and work the entire surface of the bevel. The wide bevel forms its own guide.
 
Hi Dan,

I like:

4.25" blade length, .125" thickness. , blade width 1" , square spine for fire starting
Full non tapered tang
01 carbon steel
Scandi grind
Canvas Micarta handle that fits the hand well ( almost an oval shape )
2 lashing Lanyard holes (one in front , one in back)
Traditional leather sheath with firesteel loop



Tigerdog
 
Here is Mors Kochanski's describtion of his ideal Bushcraft knife:

The general-purpose bush knife should be indestructible. The blade should be as long as the width of the palm, four to four and a quarter inches is ideal to perform intricate woodcraft duties, yet is large enough to present a good target for baton when cutting down small trees, and splitting wood. A general-use knife should have the blade tip close to the profile centerline of the handle. The back of the handle and back of the blade should be on the same line. The back of the blade should not be thinned down or sharpened so that a baton can be used more effectively without being cut up. The knife’s spine should be squared off to be able to spark a FireSteel/ferrocerium rod. The blade should be of good quality carbon steel. The blade should be one-eighth of an inch thick and about one inch wide. This size of blade is lightweight, yet difficult to break. The curvature of the cutting edge should extend for the full length of the blade. This grind needs to be a wide flat bevel that runs to the edge of the blade with no significant secondary bevel. The angle is engineered to match the quality of the steel and intended use, usually the edge bevels only goes 1/3 way up the side of the knife. The result is a very keen edge. The knife blade should have a sharp enough point to penetrate deep into wood with a minimum of effort. The steel should be soft enough to be maintained at a shaving edge, a Rockwell scale hardness of 58.5-60 seems ideal. Carbon steel, unlike stainless steel, has another advantage in the bush; it can be used as the striker in the flint and steel method of fire lighting. The metal of the knife blade should extend for the full length of the handle (a full tang) for strength. The knife handle should be durable and made of a water-resistant material. The knife should have a strong pommel that will protect the handle if the knife is driven tip-first deep into wood. The knife handle should be as long as the width of your palm, four to four and a quarter inches is ideal. The cross section of the handle should be oval instead of round or rectangular. A guard on a bush knife is in the way and detracts from many operations. It prevents the use of a simple, secure, deep sheath. One of the best methods in preventing the loss of a knife while carrying it is to use a deep sheath and wear it around the neck to be constantly aware of the knife’s presence. When the knife is not in use, the sheath is tucked in the shirt. The pouch sheath should be constructed from heavy cowhide and treated with beeswax/paraffin to help it become water-resistant.
 
Lots of good suggestions.

I too like full tang, 3.5-4.5 inches. I absolutely love a choil
Handle should have some good texture, knurling and shape to allow grip when wet with water, blood, etc.
 
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