Help me design a "Bushcraft" knife - [CONTEST]

Dan,
That looks really good to me. What color micarta will be available, and what type of sheath are you thinking?

I really like it, the only thing I feel would make it perfect is a puukko shaped blade instead of the spear point (The back of the handle and back of the blade on the same line) like in the picture.



I really love the handle shape, and empty box idea, and I'm the biggest scandi grind fan in the world.

This project rocks! Thanks Ron
 
It's looking even better than I imagined Dan however I don't think I'd bother trying to create a compartment in the handle !
This is ,after all, a Bushcraft knife and not a Survival knife......besides I would think that the tool needed to remove the scales would take up more space than the items you could fit inside.....JMO !!!
 
pitdog said:
It's looking even better than I imagined Dan however I don't think I'd bother trying to create a compartment in the handle !
This is ,after all, a Bushcraft knife and not a Survival knife......besides I would think that the tool needed to remove the scales would take up more space than the items you could fit inside.....JMO !!!
Click to expand...

I agree. I think hollowing out the handles will also increase the cost.
 
pitdog said:
It's looking even better than I imagined Dan however I don't think I'd bother trying to create a compartment in the handle !
This is ,after all, a Bushcraft knife and not a Survival knife......besides I would think that the tool needed to remove the scales would take up more space than the items you could fit inside.....JMO !!!
Click to expand...

Agreed. I think #12 looks great, but it does'nt need the compartment. It would just be extra work since it is a bushcraft blade. Keep it simple. Scandi grind, Good steel, micarta scales, lanyard hole. That's it. It will work that way. Can't wait to see a prototype!:thumbup::thumbup::D
 
Thanks for the input guys.
I agree that it will add cost/time...but not much - I am going to have these waterjet cut. That part will probably add at most $1 to each knife (waterjet or laser cutting should come in under $10 per knife) So, to me, it's worth it. As in, it's something that I can "add on" at very little cost to me, no loss of time/labor...and has some practical use.


I'll think this one over...(sleep on it) :D





I think i've found some screws that will work. They are brass, 2 parts. They don't require any tapping (threads). They are flathead screws...not phillips. More practical and easy to remove "in the field - without a screwdriver"...can use a penny, another knife...anything you can pry with.


I'll try and get some pics.


Anyway, I do think it'll work great.


And those that don't want removable scales can always request theirs be glued down. In the which case, the interior "cutout" gets filled up with epoxy anyway. (not sure what this will cost extra...just thinking out loud).
 
Uhh... Dan.... you do realize that I was kidding about the hollow handle... right? I was just making a wise guy comment to what Danny In Japan said. :eek:

I think drilling some holes in the tang to lighten it but not effect the integrity could be a good thing, but hollowing out scales could be time consuming.

Personally I'd rather have your good old fashioned corby rivets that have some epoxy on their threads and will never loosen in the next 5 lifetimes.

The glued slabs, rivets, and thong holes will make for a redicliously stout handle. That's what I would want a single piece that isnt going anywhere.
 
I am new to this Forum and have been watching this thread, I like the design that every one has come up with, I own several "bushcraft" style knives and keep reaching for the Wilkinson sword Ray Mears, mostly because of the weight. it is heavier than all of the other knives of this type that I own. it is 4mm thick and does not have any lightening cuts, a skeltonized or a tapered tang. If you could make it heavy enough that a guy would know that he has a knife in his hand I would lie it. Thanks.
 
Dan, I love #12, consider this a pre-order for one in 3V-red micarta-right hand kydex with a fire steel loop!

This has been a great thread, I can't wait to see some random shop pics during production!!!

Stephen
 
I see the picture now.
I'd like to see bit more indent at the index finger and a swell on top of the handle.
 
Ok...I've got it drawn up showing the screws I would be using.


These are already tapped, etc...ready to go. Would be easy to use.


However, the diameter is significant in relation to the handle.

Have a look:

bushcraft12b.gif



I like the idea...but I don't know if I want screws that large. What do you guys think?


If I don't use these screws, then I'll probably just go with regular glued-up handles. (not removable).

Again, trying to go with simplicity and utility as priorities number one. Go with what's most readily available, as well as easiest to use, etc. :thumbup:


These screws are ideal and most practical...but might be too large. If I can find other screws that are just as simple....would be ok. But for now, most other screws are impractical - phillips head...or torx...or hex bit....don't fit the idea of ease-of-use.


You guys are great for providing feedback! :thumbup:
 
I would go with whatever you are the happiest with Dan, after all it is your name that is on the knives !!!!
 
SamuraiDave said:
Personally I'd rather have your good old fashioned corby rivets that have some epoxy on their threads and will never loosen in the next 5 lifetimes.

The glued slabs, rivets, and thong holes will make for a redicliously stout handle. That's what I would want a single piece that isnt going anywhere.
Click to expand...

x2 on this one. :thumbup:
 
As I stated before, I would prefer fixed handle slabs for ultimate durability. While in theory it is a cool idea to have removable handle slabs, It really isn't necessary and you know someone or multiple people will be shipping the blade back to you because their slabs keep coming loose. Those screws are a bit large also, but that blade design is perfect. I am a fan of the K.I.S.S. philosophy on bushcraft blades. Fixed, non removable slabs with no storage compartment, scandi grind with as forged finish and 3V steel and you have a winner! Can't wait to see an actual blade!!:thumbup::thumbup:
 
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