Help me design a "Bushcraft" knife - [CONTEST]

11 in 3v and what size would the blade be? large enough to baton wrist sized things atleast? and would it stand up to it?
 
11 in 3v and what size would the blade be? large enough to baton wrist sized things atleast? and would it stand up to it?

I think the blade should be around 4" ( Mora Size ) if this was made from CPM3V and 5/32" stock with a Convex edge it would be plenty tough enough for any task !!!:D:thumbup:
 
Tom Krein and I had a discussion about this today....here's what we came up with:

From hardest to sharpen (top) to easiest (bottom)

S30V
D2
.
.
3V
A2
1095
O1
5160


This is not a scientific analysis...it's just based on our experience...and limited to just a handful of steels we are familiar with.

I left a gap between S30V/D2 and the rest...because there really is quite a gap.

3V is going to be just a little more difficult to sharpen than A2 - which is not really difficult to sharpen.

With any CPM steel....diamond hones are best...but 3V will also respond to standard arkansas hones.

Would be interested to hear from some of you that are using 3V already. :thumbup:
 
Tom Krein and I had a discussion about this today....here's what we came up with:

From hardest to sharpen (top) to easiest (bottom)

S30V
D2
.
.
3V
A2
1095
O1
5160


This is not a scientific analysis...it's just based on our experience...and limited to just a handful of steels we are familiar with.

I left a gap between S30V/D2 and the rest...because there really is quite a gap.

3V is going to be just a little more difficult to sharpen than A2 - which is not really difficult to sharpen.

With any CPM steel....diamond hones are best...but 3V will also respond to standard arkansas hones.

Would be interested to hear from some of you that are using 3V already. :thumbup:


Dan, I would be interested to see your opinions on some other catagories as well.

Hardest to sharpen top/\ Edge holding ability cutting top /\Edge holding ability Chopping top/
#1 S30V
#2 D2
#3
#4 CPM154?
#5 CPM3V
#6 A2
#7 1095
#8 O1
#9 5160
#10
 
Edge holding ability cutting
(vanadium influences this most)

S30V
3V
CPM154
D2
A2
O1
1095
5160



Edge holding ability Chopping
(otherwise known as toughness)

3V
5160
A2
O1
1095
S30V
D2
CPM154





(the steels above are ranked from best at top, to lowest at bottom)
 
now you can see why I consider 3V a "super steel".

Very tough
Great edge-holding
Moderate difficulty in sharpening


Perfect compromise.

:thumbup:
 
So it sounds like 3V would be a pretty good choice for this project. I like using 3v. I find 3v not too difficult to sharpen and I can get it sharper than my s30v knives. Would like to hear from others.
 
Dan,
3v is not stainless correct? What about humidity and salt water. How is 3V in those scenario's? Better than D2? Pretty good I asume with the high vanadium content? (Not that I get a lot of those things In the interior of BritishColumbia where I am. :D)
 
Something I should have included....rust resistance:

CPM154
S30V
-
D2
-
-
3V
A2
5160
1095
O1


(from stainless on top, to most likely to rust at bottom)




Yet another reason to use 3V...of the "carbon" steels...it ranks highest in rust resistance (7.5% chromium).
 
For me ease of sharpening in the field is of primary concern. Rust resistance is at the bottom of my list. After reading the information in this post the steels that meet my criteria for a field use knife are 1095 and 01. I prefer 01 because of the edge that it takes and I like the patina that it eventually takes on. I read the steel frequently asked questions written by Joe Talmadge and this is what he has to say about 3v.

"cpm's incredibly tough 3v gives excellent wear resistance and good stain resistance as well, although when it does stain it is said to pit rather than surface rust. When maximum toughness is desired, with very good wear resistance, 3v is a great choice.
 
who else would like to see removable handles?




Another thing to consider (trying to think of everything....)


It would save time/money if I limited the options available - then I could always have the parts "on hand" rather than waiting to order a different steel or handle material. Make sense?

Let's say I limit the steel options to 3V and 1095, and the handle material to green micarta & black G10. Then I can buy those materials specifically for this knife in bulk...

Then, those that want special materials can still get them - added wait/cost - and I can keep costs down for the regular versions.



Seems micarta was the overwhelming majority. Maybe two different types? (green canvas, red linen)


What say ye?

:D

I like your handle material suggestions, I don't care for removable handles, though.

This kind of a project, it certainly makes sense to limit the choices to some degree.

Andy
 
Here ya go...#11


bushcraft11.gif

OK, here is where it's at for me: this design, convex grind, 3v steel, 5/32ds thick. Personally I would like a 5" blade.

Non-removable micarta or G10 scales. Green canvas or red linen.

Now that we have that settled....:D, what about sheaths?

Andy
 
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