Help me sharpen my GSO 4.1

[wolverine_173]

I have a 4.1 in 20cv and I just spend two hours trying to sharpen it on an india stone this one http://www.amazon.com/Norton-614636...F8&qid=1410038436&sr=8-1&keywords=india+stone

I used it on a backpacking trip, batoned some wood and it left some small nicks in it. So it was pretty dull. I cant even get it to cut paper. Ive never had this problem with 1095, I can get 1095 shaving sharp and cutting phone book paper.

So now im frustrated and pissed off I cant get this knife sharp. Its my favorite. Any help would be appreciated. Right now im thinking ill buy a ken onion work sharp and just convex it.

 

[Rasco]

There are some pretty good vids on YouTube on how to sharpen using a stone like the one you have, but if you spent 2 hours, I assume you're somewhat familiar with how it's done.
WorkSharp KO would probably be good, but I don't have one, so I can't really speak on that.

My GSO 4.1 is 3V and it's held up pretty well, but I haven't had to sharpen it yet

 

[jjsmith]

I have a little DMT diafold fine/extra fine. It's cheap and it does a great job on touching up the edges on my 3V and 20CV. It works real fast. I have also used a little Fallkniven DC4 stone with very good quick results.

 

[wolverine_173]

I also have the DC4, do you use the diamond side?

So what im doing is working on one side until a bur develops then doing the other side. Probably 20 stokes per side. then ill do 3 strokes per side then switch to the fine side of the india stone and repeat the process then i strop. I dont know why I cant do it with this steel. Maybe im not keeping my angle good or maybe im applying too much pressure. I do add some pressure while sharpening

 

[wolverine_173]

double post

 

[Riz!]

Pressure is probably the problem. Let the stone do the work. Do not push the blade onto the stone. Use only the weight of the blade. I recommend coloring the edge with a sharpee marker so you can see exactly where you are making contact on the stone.

 

[jjsmith]

I use very very light pressure especially when using the diamond stones. I do use the diamond side first with the DC4 with very light pressure just until it's back to a nice sharp working edge then finish on the ceramic side. I prefer the DMT. It seems to work faster for me and I like the extra fine side to finish. I think the extra fine side is 1200 mesh 9 micron on the DMT. The DC4 is 600 25 micron. I haven't used these on a extremely dull knife with chips or damage. Just for touch ups.

 

[calc]

Sharpening 20CV is going to take quite a while with an India stone. 1095 is much easier to sharpen since it's much less wear resistant.

 

[B34NS]

Pressure is probably the problem. Let the stone do the work. Do not push the blade onto the stone. Use only the weight of the blade. I recommend coloring the edge with a sharpee marker so you can see exactly where you are making contact on the stone.

Second this. Got a photo of the edge?

 

[chiral.grolim]

I also use the sharpie technique to let me know how much work I'll need to do to get the angle where I want it. After beating on my M390 GSO-4.1 for a couple months, brought down the shoulder on one side and touched up the edge on a DMT hone. With the proper tool (diamonds) it shouldn't take too long.

 

[calc]

With the proper tool (diamonds) it shouldn't take too long.

Exactly this. 20CV, M390 and the like aren't incredibly hard to sharpen given the right equipment.

 

[Fanglekai]

You could use a Norton Crystolon silicon carbide stone. They are $20 or so. They work on pretty much anything. India stones are better for low wear resistance steels in my experience.

 

[Brommeland]

I just reprofiled mine (3V) with a Lansky system (used with diamond stones @ 17 degrees), then worked it on alumina rods (20 degrees) and finished the edge on a strop loaded with diamond paste.

 

[SURVIVE! Ellie]

I have a 4.1 in 20cv and I just spend two hours trying to sharpen it on an india stone this one http://www.amazon.com/Norton-614636...F8&qid=1410038436&sr=8-1&keywords=india+stone

I used it on a backpacking trip, batoned some wood and it left some small nicks in it. So it was pretty dull. I cant even get it to cut paper. Ive never had this problem with 1095, I can get 1095 shaving sharp and cutting phone book paper.

So now im frustrated and pissed off I cant get this knife sharp. Its my favorite. Any help would be appreciated. Right now im thinking ill buy a ken onion work sharp and just convex it.

I know it isn't as much fun but you can always send it back to us. Free lifetime resharpening for only the cost of return shipping! Usually only takes a day or two to get it back in the mail. Shoot us an email at Workshop@SurviveKnives.com if you're interested in that route.

 

[Alberta Ed]

Diamond hones work much better than conventional hones such as India stones on super-steels with high carbide content.

 

[wolverine_173]

Pressure is probably the problem. Let the stone do the work. Do not push the blade onto the stone. Use only the weight of the blade. I recommend coloring the edge with a sharpee marker so you can see exactly where you are making contact on the stone.

I think I was pushing too hard. and ill probably try a dmt stone. I considered sending it back to survive but I need to learn how to do it. I did use a marker to see if I was doing the correct angle and I was.

I actually watched some youtube videos and got some sand paper and a mouse pad and convexed it. I knocked off the shoulder with the dc4 diamond side. it now cuts phone book paper almost as good as my 3v which has only cut paper. It also shaves hair. I still need to do a little work on it but Convexing just seemed like it required less technique and seemed to work for me.

If i decide I dont like it convexed ill ship it to survive

 

[Brasso3]

A $45 strop from one of our vendors along with their stropping paste will sharpen just about anything pretty fast. If you like a convex edge.

 

[Riz!]

Free hand sharpening will creat a slightly convexed edge anyway. No person can hold the knife in exactly the same position for each pass on the stone. Convex sharpening on a mousepad is too soft and most people will push too had, rounding the edge. I recommend a think peice of leather for your backing material. It gives you a convex edge but maintains the proper amount of curve in the final bevel, without rounding the edge.

 

[wolverine_173]

Free hand sharpening will creat a slightly convexed edge anyway. No person can hold the knife in exactly the same position for each pass on the stone. Convex sharpening on a mousepad is too soft and most people will push too had, rounding the edge. I recommend a think peice of leather for your backing material. It gives you a convex edge but maintains the proper amount of curve in the final bevel, without rounding the edge.

are you suppose to hold the knife at the same angle you would sharpen a plane edge? I held mine at a shallow angle until the shoulder was knocked off then I went back to a normal 20 degree angle

 

[wolverine_173]

I use very very light pressure especially when using the diamond stones. I do use the diamond side first with the DC4 with very light pressure just until it's back to a nice sharp working edge then finish on the ceramic side. I prefer the DMT. It seems to work faster for me and I like the extra fine side to finish. I think the extra fine side is 1200 mesh 9 micron on the DMT. The DC4 is 600 25 micron. I haven't used these on a extremely dull knife with chips or damage. Just for touch ups.

Should I get this DMT stone? Fine and extra fine? http://www.amazon.com/DMT-WM8EF-WB-...8&qid=undefined&sr=8-3&keywords=dmt+sharpener

or Fine and Corse? http://www.amazon.com/DMT-WM8FC-WB-...qid=1410502438&sr=8-11&keywords=dmt+sharpener