Help me with this knife design and build - Take 2

Joined
Oct 19, 2017
Messages
325
Hi again my friends,

In case you haven’t seen it and if you’d like to, here is my previous build where I started my journey with your invaluable help and support.

https://www.bladeforums.com/threads/help-me-with-the-knife-design-please.1628204/

So this is a new build and I am really exited.

Here are two bowie type knifes and I’m also working on a more kitchen/camp type knife more friendly when used on a cutting board for food preparation. Once I have the preliminary design I will also add it here for your consideration.

I want to mention that these designs have been hugely influenced by knifes I have seen on this site and on the web, that were made by some of the greatest blade smiths of current times, my opinion of course just in case some disagree.

So let’s get to it. The blades are 7” long measured from tip to guard, 3/16" thickness and handle is close to 5”, measured on top of the handle from where the hand would contact the guard to the end of the handle.

Knife 1: Hidden tang
IMG-1760.jpg



Knife 2: Full Tang
IMG-1759.jpg



Update:-------------------------------------------------------------------------

See Post #17 for another update.

Knife 3:
Kitchen-V1-1.png


And the measurements:
Kitchen-V1-2.png



As I mentioned in the begining, here is the additional knife design I just finished.
I know, it is not the usual kitchen knife shape, but I wanted to incorporate a guard, which I may shape it a bit in the end to make it better looking and add a throat between the guard and handle for some pizazz.

Now, I did strive to make the belly of the knife, a hopefully proper kitchen knife with influences from a more camping knife I suppose.

I checked my already bought knives in the kitchen to see how they were shaped in terms of the belly of the blade, obviously an already proven design.
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So here are some preliminary questions:

a. What’s your opinion on the overall designs? What would you change.

b. Is the blade long enough? If longer how much longer?
I would like to stay “around" this length, with some variation, for this rendition, if it makes sense.

c. How about the blade shape? Too much belly? Should it be pointier?


Thank you in advance and looking forward to hear from you again,
Constantin
 
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I like it. I think a 7 inch blade is way to long for a "pocket" anything, but as a belt knife...go for it!
 
I like it. I think a 7 inch blade is way to long for a "pocket" anything, but as a belt knife...go for it!

Thank you.

Oh, I meant to say "vest bowie", not pocket bowie, my bad. I think that's what they are called, the shorter ones. Or maybe just a "medium" size bowie style is a better description.

Updated the original post and removed the word "pocket".

Constantin
 
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In regards knife 2 pic
What is your handle material ?

I can only assume the “guard” will be made from the scales and a integral spur on the tang, that’s a very thin area.
 
In regards knife 2 pic
What is your handle material ?

I can only assume the “guard” will be made from the scales and a integral spur on the tang, that’s a very thin area.

Now that you've mentioned, composite would be the best option for strength, maybe G10 or micarta, thanks!

So yes, the guard width, while looking at the knife from behind the handle, would be made up from the 3/16" of the blade stock plus the thickness of the scales.

When looking from the angle perspective of the picture above, it will be a little thicker than on Knife 1, so I say strong enough for a guard and no way would it be possible to be bent by the finger.

Does this makes sense?

Thanks,
Constantin
 
I’d loose the little “thumb ramp” guard thingy on the spine. I think it looks goofy, and I really don’t have much use for thumb ramps on any knife really.

“Thumb on spine” is a less secure grip and doesn’t really add to control of the blade at all. At least that’s my view on it anyway...
 
Yes, I was looking at the profile prospective, as pictured, and wondering what scale material I would trust not to crack or break away. I couldn’t come up with much.
 
I'll start out by saying your last knife came out really nice. Now, about these drawings.

A - I am not a big fan of the harpoon top on the spine. I think it looks cleaner with the straight line you drew under the harpoon. Especially on a smaller "vest Bowie".
B - I like handle #1 better. It is cleaner with the single pin. The fish-tail butt on #2 looks too much. #1 also has a bolster, which eliminates the problem of the scales going down the tips. The #2 scales and guard will not work as drawn.
C - I like the amount of ricasso you used. It is just right.
D - I think the transition from the ricasso bottom to the heel would look better ( and be stronger) if it was a slight radius, and not a 90° angle.

Redraw the blade without the harpoon and add the radius at the drop and I think you have a winner.
 
I’d loose the little “thumb ramp” guard thingy on the spine. I think it looks goofy, and I really don’t have much use for thumb ramps on any knife really.

“Thumb on spine” is a less secure grip and doesn’t really add to control of the blade at all. At least that’s my view on it anyway...

Thank you, Sir!

It wasn't intended as a thumb ramp. In that case I would have moved it lower down, on the spine. At least that's what my understanding of what a thumb ramp was, and thanks for the clarification.

In this case it was just part of the guard, more like a 1 1/2 guard style I guess.

But I totally get and like your point, so here is the updated version.

Is this more in line with what you were thinking?

Full-Tang-Bowie-V3.png


Thanks again for your invaluable feedback! This is helping me so much and I'm very appreciative.

Constantin
 
I'll start out by saying your last knife came out really nice. Now, about these drawings.

A - I am not a big fan of the harpoon top on the spine. I think it looks cleaner with the straight line you drew under the harpoon. Especially on a smaller "vest Bowie".
B - I like handle #1 better. It is cleaner with the single pin. The fish-tail butt on #2 looks too much. #1 also has a bolster, which eliminates the problem of the scales going down the tips. The #2 scales and guard will not work as drawn.
C - I like the amount of ricasso you used. It is just right.
D - I think the transition from the ricasso bottom to the heel would look better ( and be stronger) if it was a slight radius, and not a 90° angle.

Redraw the blade without the harpoon and add the radius at the drop and I think you have a winner.

Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith , thanks you, Sir!

Here is the update, if I understood you correctly, in particular to feedback D.
Please let me know.

I also agree, on feedback B, the fish-tail butt looks too much.
I will adjust that as well, thanks.

Regarding "The #2 scales and guard will not work as drawn".

Why do you think so? Maybe I wasn't clear in my drawing, but what you see in the picture as the profile of the knife is how the actual blank will be cut. I would then attach the scales over and they would be glued and pinned on the 3/16" blank. The guard underneath the scales is hardened 3/16" steel, not just scales.

Also, the double line at the butt, just ignore it. It is just an artifact. It was there to say that the but is rounded, but I didn't draw it properly.

I'm not sure if I explained this properly, sorry about it.

Does this makes sense?

Feedback A:

Bowie-V3.png


Feedback D close up:

Bowie-V3-2.png


Thanks again for your invaluable feedback!

Constantin
 
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Yes, I was looking at the profile prospective, as pictured, and wondering what scale material I would trust not to crack or break away. I couldn’t come up with much.

3fifty7 3fifty7 , that was great feedback, it brought to my attention that it is imperative to use a hard material for the scales, as in perhaps a composite material.

Thanks for bringing it up! Do you think G10 or micarta would do the job?
 
I like the sketch #2. Will you be sketching a top & front view? Just wondering if the scales would have some belly & what sort of grind on the blade. As for adding anything, I prefer a simpler design & you pretty much nailed that.
 
I’d try to cut out a sample to size and see how solid it felt by itself. If you are confident there you should be fine once it’s glued and backed up by the tang.
 
I like the sketch #2. Will you be sketching a top & front view? Just wondering if the scales would have some belly & what sort of grind on the blade. As for adding anything, I prefer a simpler design & you pretty much nailed that.

Thank you!

Yes, the handle would be contoured with proper palm swell and the butt as well. The blade would be a full flat grind.

Thanks,
Constantin
 
As I have mentioned in the original post, I just got around and updated it with the promised new knife. Please have a look.

Thanks again,
Constantin
 
Awww, no love for Knife 3 ? Maybe I know why... Here is another version, maybe more interesting :).

Knife 3 Update:

IMG-1780.jpg


Thanks,
Constantin
 
I Like the pic in post #11 (assuming that the little kinks in the guard will be smooth).
This last one in post #17 looks (to me) like a chef knife with a too-narrow Bowie handle.
 
I Like the pic in post #11 (assuming that the little kinks in the guard will be smooth).
This last one in post #17 looks (to me) like a chef knife with a too-narrow Bowie handle.

Thanks. Yes the guard will be rounded off.
Regarding the post #17, you are right, the blade is inspired by a chef knife, but with a Bowie influence.
The handle is the same size as the knife in #11, it just looks narower because the blade in #17 is wider.

Constantin
 
Awww, no love for Knife 3 ? Maybe I know why... Here is another version, maybe more interesting :).

Knife 3 Update:

IMG-1780.jpg


Thanks,
Constantin

That looks nice, but I would shorten the finger guard a tad. It looks too long. The curvature form handle to guard looks a bit angular. I like it an arc. If you leave it the length it is now, it may look good to have the guard tip curve back a bit.
Also, add the radius at the ricasso.
 
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