Help picking a leather skiving tool

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Feb 1, 2014
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Hey guys, haven't posted anything on here in a while :p. Got a question. I need a skiving tool for leather working, which would mostly be used for straps and belt loops and such. Tandy's having a sale this weekend and I'm not sure what tool to buy. There's two options (price isn't a problem since there on sale anyways, I just want the better tool for my intended purpose).

This one, the safety beveler:
http://www.tandyleatherfactory.com/en-usd/search/searchresults/3001-00.aspx

And the super skiver:
http://www.tandyleatherfactory.com/en-usd/search/searchresults/3025-00.aspx

Any info would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
 
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I have the safety skiver and like it. It does have a little learning curve so practice getting smooth cuts. I've seen more than one person that didn't care for the other one, although I have no experience with it. Either way, get some of extra blades. Neither will perform well dull.
 
I have the safety skiver and like it. It does have a little learning curve so practice getting smooth cuts. I've seen more than one person that didn't care for the other one, although I have no experience with it. Either way, get some of extra blades. Neither will perform well dull.

Thanks for the input. I'll probably end up going with the safety beveler, seems a little simpler, but I'll wait to see what other people will say. That would also save me some extra money to spend on replacement blades.
 
I have both and can't say I'm fond of either. New blades are a must and they use the same blade. I had both and quit em some years back. Couple moves and life etc and I'd lost em. Recently bought both again and a hundred pack of blades but have quit em again. I keep going back to my roundknife it just does a better job on a wider variety of leathers. Quicker, better, no blade changing, more accurate, the roundkinfe is always ready to go. My wife does use the safety beveler for a couple spots on her purses (round knife on everything else). But even for that specific purpose she's been looking hard at the Cobra skivving machine. That probably doesn't help ya much. So I'd say the safety beveler is the better of the two, easier to change blades, get lots of blades.
 
Well if a round knife is an option, I say go with that. :)

Round knife takes a bit of practice but it's probably already at hand if you have one. If not and you'd like to try one I'd recommend staying away from the Tandy foreign made knives and new Osborne (1075 steel). Buy vintage if you can find a good one, or custom if you have the dough.

Regardless of which knife/tool you go with, you'll need it sharp, especially for soft or thin leather. If you can't sharpen a head knife (not terribly hard) then replaceable blades are gonna work better than a dull knife. Hyde and others make straight knives for skiving as well.
 
I use the Hyde number 2 skiving knife which I cannot find any more anywhere, but Murphy Shoe Knives (google) has a very similar model with a green handle. They are not sharp out of the box so you'll have to take care of that yourself.

I have had, tried an discarded both the models you posted from Tandy. If you are like me, you'll destroy as much as you skive. In short I don't like them at all.

Paul
 
Maybe I'll have to give a shot at building something similar Paul. They have much flex in the blade?
 
I think I'll go for the safety beveler, since its not that important of a tool for me right now (I've gotten away with not having any skiving tool other than a knife for a while). If I really get into serious leather working in the future, I'd definitely invest in something better. But for now I think that'll do. Thanks guys. :thumbup:
 
Yes, they are really flexible.

Blade is about 50 thousandths. The Murphy knife is about $10/$12. Don't know if with time considered it would be worth making one.

Paul
 
No it wouldn't be worth it but I could make a very nice one. I can gurantee better edge holding. I'll be ordering some thin stock here next day or two (got to build a couple hoof knives for the vet), maybe give er a try. Flat on one side and beveled on the other?
 
equal bevel each side. Not a chisel grind. Razor sharp and stropped frequently. Don't know what the HRC or heat treat is on these, but it could probably be a heck of a lot better as far as edge holding goes.

Paul
 
Homemade knife kind of like Paul Long's , made from a old Sheffield kitchen knife .
I've also nearly perfected my technique using a belt sander , but it's not for the faint hearted :)
I bought one of those safety skiver and used it a few times , but didn't like the results .
It is one of a handful of tools that I've purchased that was a dirty great big waste of time .
I made my kitchen knife - skiver after Paul Long answered one of my questions and as usual , he was right :thumbup:

Ken
 
I got the saftey beveler, with ten extra "non-stainless" blades (I'm guessing their carbon steel? I went with the non-stainless over the stainless, because I thought the carbon steel would be sharper and hold an edge better. Am I wrong?).
 
I've had very poor experiences with the Safety Beveler and the Super Skiver. Neither one has worked at all for me. Maybe it is operator technique, but two different Safety Bevelers bent almost immediately; I couldn't bend them back into any functional cutting angle. The Super Skiver simply never skived. The replacement blades for both of these knives are poor, at best, and even new ones wouldn't cut.

As a result, I purchased a C.S. Osborne French Edger/Skiver in the widest (#8) width and have been using this with success. I mostly skive relative narrow pieces such as strap ends, etc.

L_130.jpg


I really need to upgrade my round knife and learn to use it for these types of jobs.
 
I think you are on the right track Michael. I've got some French Edgers and have never had much success with em, glad that one is working out for ya. I also have a very high end French skivving knife. It sucks. Roundknife works for me. I am particular fond of the non symetrical shaped ones for skivving. That longer edge just gets to places that are hard to get too with the regular round knife. Paul ordered some steel for our experimental skiving knife from Alpha yeserday.
 
The main reason I switched to the Hyde #2 skiving knife (or the Murphy clone) pictured above is that it lets me get into any place, curve, corner, strap end or anywhere else I want be with relative ease. That and an old time master saddle and boot maker preferred that and taught me how to use it. There is a short learning curve which is navigated by continued PRACTICE.

Now it would really be nice if a better quality blade with better edge holding capability that would flex and do the same job was available, but until that happens…………..Dave????:confused:;)

Paul
 
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