Help with a screwed up band saw that won't shut off.

R

Randydb

Joined
Sep 27, 2014
Messages
1,107
Electricity is my bane and I know very little despite being quite handy with wood work and other things.
Last night I was ripping with my band saw and the motor started sounding like it was labouring. I pulled the stock back and it still sounded like it was labouring heavily. I hit the stop switch (basically a light switch) and it kept running. I headed for the circuit breaker and it tripped before I could turn it off. When I turned the breaker on the saw started up even though the switch was off and sounded like it was labouring. Motor was pretty hot. But when I turned it by hand it turned easily.

So I pulled the switch out and removed the two leads. Plugged the bandsaw in and it started up...without the on/off switch even attached and the leads separated. What is going on? Here are a couple pics. I have a pic of the motor plate too but it isn't very good because I cant really get in there to look directly. From what I see it looks like the motor can be wired 110 or 220.

Today when I plug it in and it starts it doesn't sound like it is labouring to me, but obviously something is wrong if it is running with the on off switch removed.

Thanks
Randy
 

Attachments

  • IMG_4671.jpg
    IMG_4671.jpg
    36.1 KB · Views: 44
  • IMG_4676.jpg
    IMG_4676.jpg
    64.2 KB · Views: 43
  • IMG_4677.jpg
    IMG_4677.jpg
    49.7 KB · Views: 44
Could be the centrifal starting coil switch, which is inside the motor, could have gotten stuck and kept the starting coil in the circuit.

I would search some in the woodworking forums (shhhhh . . . FWW) I would post links but that would cause a melt down. Funny . . . I used to post links to other forums when I practically lived in that forum and there were no nuclear events.

Probably best to remove the motor and take it to a "Tool Doctor". That is a business that repairs power tools here. I don't know if you have a similar business where you are.

Some times the ON/OFF power switches have starters in them but that is for higher horse power tools than yours probably is. My big floor standing drill press, bought brand new, has a screwy switch problem; sometimes it won't go off when the OFF button is pressed in. Really it has broken in and I don't recall this happening for some time but was a regular occurrence when new. I can reach over and flip a switch on a power strip that is within arms reach so I don't get too excited about pursuing it but maybe you need to buy a better switch and install it. Brace yourself, a good one could be surprisingly pricy.

One other thought but this applies more on automatic switches that go OFF when a preset condition is reached like in an air compressor for example, is the contacts can melt and fuse together. Think soft metal like solder or silver. Probalby not the case on yours but you might look at the "points" of the contacts in your switch. Who knows what mongrel components could have been substituted on a second hand tool etc.

PS: it is a bad idea to back out of a cut on a bandsaw with the blade traveling; it can pull the blade off the wheels because there is no roller/guide supporting the blade in that direction of work travel.
Best to turn off the saw, let the blade come to a stop, and then back out of the cut.
Oh wait . . . you couldn't turn off the saw.
thassss a problem !

Be careful mon ami
 
Last edited:
It wont be the switch because it keeps running with the switch completely removed and the leads separated.

I have a buddy who is an electrician...I am sure he can point me to a tool doctor type place.
 
I know it isn't addressing the root of the problem but you could use one of those foot peddle on/off switches.

These Delta bandsaws are awesome but can be a pain to get working right. I rehabed a wood-metal Delta saw a little while back and all of a sudden it's having issues switching gears. I'm to the point that I'm just gonna tear it all apart, clean it, and reassemble. Urghh... good luck with yours.
 
I suspect the switch was wired wrong, using a switched neutral. This is not uncommon at all with light circuits, but never should be used to run an outlet. The motor capacitor is grounded out somehow, and the motor is running through ground and the unswitched hot wire. This is very dangerous. Shut off the breaker and don't turn it back on until a qualified electrician checks everything out. Tell him what I said here.
 
Thanks Stacey. It's unplugged and I will pull the motor this morning and find somewhere to get it looked at. I will be looking for a bit of advice in a week or so on how to wire it properly.
 
Stacy's suspicion sounds quite plausible. There's a slight chance it could also just be some bad wiring, and conductors are making contact with each other where they're not meant to. If you can get pic of inside the motor's peckerhead with the cover plate removed, you may see something obvious. Still best to get somebody who knows motors to look at it.
 
I took a second look at the photo of the removed switch and saw it was on the saw. This indicates one of several things
1) The socket on the wall is reverse wired
2) The plug on the saw is reverse wired
3) The whole circuit from the breaker panel is reverse wired. ( or gets reversed somewhere along the path)

Most likely it is #1 or #2.
 
Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith said:
I suspect the switch was wired wrong, using a switched neutral. This is not uncommon at all with light circuits, but never should be used to run an outlet. The motor capacitor is grounded out somehow, and the motor is running through ground and the unswitched hot wire. This is very dangerous. Shut off the breaker and don't turn it back on until a qualified electrician checks everything out. Tell him what I said here.
Click to expand...

That's my answer also

That's why I recommend using double pole switches and switching both black and white
 
Not only is the wrong leg switched but you're also finding a return path for power through ground if your neutral is disconnected. Something else has failed. <br />
Do you have an ohm meter to check continuity between neutral and ground?
 
Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith said:
I took a second look at the photo of the removed switch and saw it was on the saw. This indicates one of several things
1) The socket on the wall is reverse wired
2) The plug on the saw is reverse wired
3) The whole circuit from the breaker panel is reverse wired. ( or gets reversed somewhere along the path)

Most likely it is #1 or #2.
Click to expand...

Not likely #1. I know the guy who wired the plugs in my garage and he knows his stuff and is very meticulous.

Thought I found a company who I could take the motor to but he just told me to buy another one. I will keep looking. I bought a double pole switch to use when I get this sorted out.

I will get the guy who wired my garage to come and make sure the motor is wired properly when I get it fixed.
 
There is a 2hp Baldor L3605T single phase motor I can pick up locally for about $150obo second hand. Here is the specs.
http://www.electricmotorwholesale.com/BALDOR-L3605T/

This would be a SIGNIFICANT upgrade from the 1/2 hp motor that was there.

The frame is different but it would still fit in my motor housing without making changes. There is a range of holes drilled for motors. Rpm the same.

Only thing that looks like it would need to be dealt with is that the shaft is bigger and I would have to change my pulley wheel which isn't a biggie. Would need to change the belt because of different height of motor too...no prob either.

Is there anything else I am missing? Is there an issue between 110 and 115v?
Thanks
Randy
 
Last edited:
Randydb said:
Is there an issue between 110 and 115v?
Randy
Click to expand...
Nope. Two different names for the same thing. 110, 115, 120, all the same thing. If you measure the actual voltage you're getting you'll see it actually fluctuates within that general range.
 
Last edited:
The baldor is off an old compressor. I should grab the switch and motor. Anything else I should be looking for?

It's running through my head that I could always use this motor for my first kick at building my first grinder too. I know it isn't variable speed...but the price is right.
 
Thought I found a company who I could take the motor to but he just told me to buy another one.
Click to expand...
Sure seems wrong when many people in this country are looking for work.
Probably too hard to get parts so he doesn't want to get mixed up with it but still . . . a shame.

Baldor
Click to expand...

:thumbup: :thumbup: :thumbup:
I am very happy with my Baldor motor used to resaw wood planks the hard way (through the widest dimension).

No prob 110v or 115v

Do you have a volt / test meter
Click to expand...

I was just about to ask that.
Guess not
A quick look at the instructions and a bit of a poke around could answer many of these questions quickly.

One thing about the motor : some of these you can wire for 220v or 110v. If you are cutting metal only you won't need the 220 option so if there is a less expensive Baldor motor that is just 110 then get that all things being equal.

For my woodworking the 220v is pretty important for more oomph. Sorry to throw technical terms like that around.

PS: for the question about wiring in the house/garge maybe try an entirely different plug coming from another part of the house. Use some extension cord(s). ;)
Just as a test not a working option.

Oops I forgot we were talking woodworking I am so used to talking metal in the knife forum.
Yah 220 is critical for WW.
 
Last edited:
Its more likely this [edit] poster didn't't read the OP very well.[/edit]

Apologies gents.
 
Last edited:
I have one of those tester things somewhere that tell you if the plug is wired properly or not. I will track it down.

I know my old motor has some tube thing on it (capacitor?) and I can see one on the Baldor. Does this help when it starts up? Like I noticed the bandsaw starts up easy and takes a second to run up to speed. Not like my chop saw that gives a good jolt and is going. Is there anything like that I should be paying attention to? Seems to me starting a compressor is harder than starting a bandsaw.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top