Help with kalashnikov Aus 8 dagger blade

[Darryl D..]

Hey what’s up guys .. I’m having a hell of a time sharpening this Boker Kal dagger blade! I’m able t get a burr but as I refine it I can’t keep the apex . I know, well 90% sure it’s the angle cause of the way the blasé has that peak down the middle I seem t be wobbly.. I am jus wondering if anyone else has come across this or has an idea of what angle is best to set and maintain.. the knife came dull as dull cld be also ..thanks in advance for any and every reply/ advice

 

[brando555]

What kind of stone are you using?

Sometimes with large stubborn burr I like to just ease up and use very light pressure at the same angle, switching sides a few times to knock the burr down a bit and then move onto a finer stone. Repeat the process until the apex is cleaned up and razor sharp.

Some knives can just be a pita to sharpen and deburr on a single coarse stone. Not sure if that's the case but it's something to consider.

 

[Darryl D..]

I tried a few stones but best results is a coarse diamond then I jumped to 1k king ... the spine down the middle of the blade is kicking my ass

 

[Obsessed with Edges]

Dagger-profile blades are usually difficult to make very sharp, due to the thicker cross-sectional geometry which is diamond-shaped, rather than wedge-shaped. They're not made for slicing sharpness, but for piercing with the tip. The strength in the blade is from the thicker center, rather than from the spine. This means the thickest portion is half the distance away from the cutting edge, as compared to a conventionally ground blade of the same width. The primary grind of the blade starts out already being pretty obtuse to the edge; then, the secondary bevel at the edge has to be at an even wider angle. And any variation in held angle during sharpening will widen and/or round the cutting edge further. So, the most one can do is to minimize or eliminate the variation in held angle. Use a guide to do so, if need be.

 

[Darryl D..]

Dagger-profile blades are usually difficult to make very sharp, due to the thicker cross-sectional geometry which is diamond-shaped, rather than wedge-shaped. They're not made for slicing sharpness, but for piercing with the tip. The strength in the blade is from the thicker center, rather than from the spine. This means the thickest portion is half the distance away from the cutting edge, as compared to a conventionally ground blade of the same width. The primary grind of the blade starts out already being pretty obtuse to the edge; then, the secondary bevel at the edge has to be at an even wider angle. And any variation in held angle during sharpening will widen and/or round the cutting edge further. So, the most one can do is to minimize or eliminate the variation in held angle. Use a guide to do so, if need be.

Hey yea thanks for the help, I actually did somreading of older threads on here n poked around online and found that out last night, I was sorta relieved it was that but bummed out cause I didn’t want a blade like that but ohh well , I can’t be upset over that , anyway it’s a cool automatic! .. cheers man ! Thanks