I just got my DLT 20cv dlc paramilitary 2 and once the edge runs out I’m not sure what kind of edge to put on it. I am new to higher end steels and have never had a sprint run. I’m decent at sharpening and can get my s30v manix 2 xl and para 3 shaving sharp just didn’t know what I should do for this one.
Help with PM2 20CV
- Thread starter 8thWonder
- Start date
- Joined
- Sep 20, 2015
- Messages
- 6,975
Sharpen it with the factory bevel angles to start. In other words don't reprofile it or overly steepen the final bevel angle. Most of my Para2s I just sharpen that way and use.
I don't have this knife steel but I have a few in M390 and for all practical purposes it is the same alloy.
For stones look toward Shapton Glass stones. Of coarse diamond will do it. I like a bit more polish on the edge for this alloy than for say S30V.
All depends on how rough you use it and on what materials you need to cut. I'm fairly easy on my knives but do cut abrasive and challenging materials.
PS: if you are sharpening by hand or there is a chance of scratching the DLT in a sharpening jig you might want to tape the sides of the blade before sharpening. Thick clear box tape is the latest choice I know of (over painter's tape). It is possible to scratch the DLT; true the coating is super hard but it is fairly easy to dig under it with a bit of hard coarse grit. I have reground blades to thin out the blade and the coating comes right off on a power grinder; no prob. Careful.
I don't have this knife steel but I have a few in M390 and for all practical purposes it is the same alloy.
For stones look toward Shapton Glass stones. Of coarse diamond will do it. I like a bit more polish on the edge for this alloy than for say S30V.
All depends on how rough you use it and on what materials you need to cut. I'm fairly easy on my knives but do cut abrasive and challenging materials.
PS: if you are sharpening by hand or there is a chance of scratching the DLT in a sharpening jig you might want to tape the sides of the blade before sharpening. Thick clear box tape is the latest choice I know of (over painter's tape). It is possible to scratch the DLT; true the coating is super hard but it is fairly easy to dig under it with a bit of hard coarse grit. I have reground blades to thin out the blade and the coating comes right off on a power grinder; no prob. Careful.
I have a lansky and I’m assuming they come around a 20 degree edge and I’ll have to get some higher grits because right now the highest I have is a 1000 grit ceramic. After a few times sharpening it I’ll probably drop it down to that 17 degree
- Joined
- Apr 3, 2013
- Messages
- 1,105
I agree with Wowbagger it all depends what your going to be cutting and hard hard on the edge you plan on being with it.
If you are going to be using it a lot and don't want to touch it up all the time try stopping at around 1K to 5K and if you don't like that then you can always go higher in grit.
If your starting to get into higher knifes and think your going to want to get more you should look at a Hapstone system that has clamp's if you want a clamping system for a reasonable price.
I look at this way if I'm going to own knifes 150 and up you might as well get a system to match them plus you won't regret the access to better stones either.
If you are going to be using it a lot and don't want to touch it up all the time try stopping at around 1K to 5K and if you don't like that then you can always go higher in grit.
If your starting to get into higher knifes and think your going to want to get more you should look at a Hapstone system that has clamp's if you want a clamping system for a reasonable price.
I look at this way if I'm going to own knifes 150 and up you might as well get a system to match them plus you won't regret the access to better stones either.
- Joined
- Apr 5, 2019
- Messages
- 1,874
I'd keep the factory angle, supposed to be 15 a side, and get a spyderco sharpmaker and the extra diamond and ultra fine rods. Watch the DVD and do what Sal says. Keep the edge maintained and don't let it get butter knife dull and you'll be good for the life of the knife.
I've found 20cv is a great steel and isn't hard to sharpen at all. Reprofiled my zt 0562cf and it was a breeze compared to my 0770cf in s35vn. Doing my 0470 now and it's going great. I use a Lansky system to get my 15 dps (roughly) and then my sharpmaker to put on a 40 degree microbevel and I have no problem with sharpness.
Just what works for me. Ymmv.
I've found 20cv is a great steel and isn't hard to sharpen at all. Reprofiled my zt 0562cf and it was a breeze compared to my 0770cf in s35vn. Doing my 0470 now and it's going great. I use a Lansky system to get my 15 dps (roughly) and then my sharpmaker to put on a 40 degree microbevel and I have no problem with sharpness.
Just what works for me. Ymmv.