Help with really Small blades Worksharp precision Adjust Knife Sharpener

L

lio

Joined
May 15, 2007
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I can't figure out how to sharpen small blades like a micra or a classic, the rods keeps taken material of the clamp not the blade... I can't hit the edge of the blade... There is no angle.... Any tips What to do?
 
i havent used one, but looking at pictures and knowing small blades sometimes cause trouble wtih clamped systems - you might try resting the blade on top of the clamp and adjusting the angle as needed to match the current angle on the bevel. it may not be possible, there might not be enough adjustment to get the right angle.
 
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lio said:
Really? thx For that wonderful answer...
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That wasn't much help to you was it. They have some updated stuff for their system, but i don't know if it will help you. Maybe contact them and see if they can help you. This was an issue that was pointed out by users when first released, wish i could be more help. 🤝
 
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That's an issue with every clamped guided system ever made, so far as I know. Any clamp used to secure the blade is going to get in the way, because these tiny blades are so narrow.

A 'table' system like the EdgePro might work, as it relies upon a flat surface underneath the blade and the user's free hand, to hold & steady the blade, and there's no upper half of a clamp to get in the way.

Some systems include a notch in the forward end of the clamps to aid in handling small blades. Lansky's clamp is an example. But even that one is probably limited down to maybe 1/4" or 5/16" blade width - anything narrower may not be sharpenable in it. Pic below, of a blade ~1/4" wide or so in the Lansky clamp. I was experimenting with the DMT Magna-Guide & Dia-Fold hone, in using it with the Lansky clamp. It was set to work in the 20° slot in the clamp. Anything lower, like the 17° slot in that clamp, would've been too low with the clamp getting in the way.
N9kXz0n.jpg


Having said that, Bill's answer above isn't necessarily off-base. It's issues like this that highlight the limitations of even the high-end guided systems. It can give one a gentle nudge to try freehand sharpening. And very tiny, narrow and thin blades can generally be sharpened more easily because the amount of metal removal needed is much less than with a bigger, thicker blade.

There are other makeshift tricks to aid as an angle guide. Something like taping or gluing a toothpick or other 'shim' to each side of the blade, near the spine, can serve as an angle guide. But again, when considering doing something like that, it's another encouragement to start practicing some freehand sharpening. And a 'shim' method can actually help train the hands for that as well, coming as close to freehand as you'll likely get while still being assisted with a guide.
 
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Obsessed with Edges said:
That's an issue with every clamped guided system ever made, so far as I know. Any clamp used to secure the blade is going to get in the way, because these tiny blades are so narrow.

A 'table' system like the EdgePro might work, as it relies upon a flat surface underneath the blade and the user's free hand, to hold & steady the blade, and there's no upper half of a clamp to get in the way.

Having said that, Bill's answer above isn't necessarily off-base. It's issues like this that highlight the limitations of even the high-end guided systems. It can give one a gentle nudge to try freehand sharpening. And very tiny, narrow and thin blades can generally be sharpened more easily because the amount of metal removal needed is much less than with a bigger, thicker blade.

There are other makeshift tricks to aid as an angle guide. Something like taping or gluing a toothpick or other 'shim' to each side of the blade, near the spine, can serve as an angle guide. But again, when considering doing something like that, it's another encouragement to start practicing some freehand sharpening.
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I have other sharpeners like a sharpmaker that will work ok with small blades... My anwser here was if there is a way to make it work(trick or maybe a 3d print accessory ) with worksharp,not how to sharpen a small blade whatsoever ... That why his answer was a little impolite...but thx for your feedback... I will use other sharpener for the small ones.
 
I know the KME have a clamp option designed for small blades I believe it is longer and thinner clamp than the standard one you might could design some type of modified extension for the systems clamp you are using to allow you to extend the clamp to permit more clearance for the clamp and stone.
 
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There are sellers on ebay selling attachments that essentially replace the clamping system with a magnetic table. I have one on order. This would make sharpening small narrow blades possible
 
ricklee4570 said:
There are sellers on ebay selling attachments that essentially replace the clamping system with a magnetic table. I have one on order. This would make sharpening small narrow blades possible
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Could u share a link pls
 
Bill DeShivs said:
You could do what millions of people have done for hundreds of years-learn to sharpen by hand.
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This!

I know it's not helping you with your current problem but in the long run, why not doing it by (free)hand. I never used some system with clamps and whatnot because the time it takes just to set it up.... I am finished with sharpening prolly before you can even start and i also can vary the angle on the edge as well. You can't do that with something like that!
 
I'd mentioned earlier, how much simpler very tiny blades are to sharpen, in terms of metal removal - therefore done with speed and a minimum of passes needed. I can't emphasize that enough. Very tiny blades like this are already inherently thin - so, oftentimes, sharpening them amounts to little more than applying what is essentially a microbevel in maybe 2 passes or less per side. And making use of something like a Fine diamond hone (600) can set a completely new bevel very quickly in a handful of passes on these tiny, thin blades in simple steels.

So, with all that said, when you start comparing the time, effort and gear improvisation devoted to getting it done with a guide vs. just going ahead and giving it a light pass or three on a diamond hone, maybe with a simple shim attached to the blade for angle control, you'll start to realize it's much simpler than originally assumed.

I still periodically ponder ideas for doing it in a guided fashion. But ultimately, I've always decided it's more work and mental distraction than necessary for these tiny blades.
 
ricklee4570 said:
There are sellers on ebay selling attachments that essentially replace the clamping system with a magnetic table. I have one on order. This would make sharpening small narrow blades possible
Click to expand...
A report on one of these would be good when you receive it.
 
Obsessed with Edges said:
I'd mentioned earlier, how much simpler very tiny blades are to sharpen, in terms of metal removal - therefore done with speed and a minimum of passes needed. I can't emphasize that enough. Very tiny blades like this are already inherently thin - so, oftentimes, sharpening them amounts to little more than applying what is essentially a microbevel in maybe 2 passes or less per side. And making use of something like a Fine diamond hone (600) can set a completely new bevel very quickly in a handful of passes on these tiny, thin blades in simple steels.

So, with all that said, when you start comparing the time, effort and gear improvisation devoted to getting it done with a guide vs. just going ahead and giving it a light pass or three on a diamond hone, maybe with a simple shim attached to the blade for angle control, you'll start to realize it's much simpler than originally assumed.

I still periodically ponder ideas for doing it in a guided fashion. But ultimately, I've always decided it's more work and mental distraction than necessary for these tiny blades.
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Very valid points, i have had good success using ceramic rod systems for small blades, might not be the perfect solution, but for my needs and the fact that i don't use the smaller secondary blades all that often they do a very acceptable job. I have a few that i have aquired over the years that give me angles from 15degress up 25degress, they are also handy for quick touch ups. Have a good weekend.
 
L lio In answer to your original post and question, have a look at some ceramic rod V sharpeners. I have a few, they are good for really small blades to get a sharp edge on. I don't want to mention actual companies, don't know the protocols of sponsors of BladeForums, but you can message me if you like.:thumbsup:
 
ricklee4570 said:
Really? Thats the best answer he will get?
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Well in the long term, yes.
Each system has it's drawbacks, which means getting another system or rigging something up.
Ultimately freehand sharpening gives the most flexibility. Every blade known to man has been sharpened with stone or file. People themselves are still the most flexible system.
Coming up on the limits of a rig, or being aware of them is a sign to take that step.
 
Ourorboros said:
Well in the long term, yes.
Each system has it's drawbacks, which means getting another system or rigging something up.
Ultimately freehand sharpening gives the most flexibility. Every blade known to man has been sharpened with stone or file. People themselves are still the most flexible system.
Coming up on the limits of a rig, or being aware of them is a sign to take that step.
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^^That's exactly how I made the jump to freehand. When I noticed that the 'rig' was holding me back and literally getting in the way of what my hands wanted to do, I decided that was enough.

After using a guided rig for awhile, the hands get the feel for the process and for maintaining flush contact on the bevels. For me, it happened without my being consciously aware of it. At some point, everything 'clicked' with the hands and the awareness of it came suddenly like an epiphany. The hands develop the muscle memory and learn what to do intuitively, even while the conscious mind might still be struggling with the concept of it all. That's when you know the lesson is going to 'stick' forever, like learning to ride a bicycle after using training wheels for awhile.
 
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