HI Scramsax/Seax/Saex Design Thread

Re: scabbard

It appears that the straps were put on backwards. The loops should allow a blade-up carry rather than a blade-down carry.

That said, it's still a fun-looking sheath that could easily be strapped to just about anything. I'll probably switch it around when mine gets home. (or make an entirely new one - who knows... :rolleyes: )

One thing's for sure - I'm quite excited to see it!!!


Re: runes

I think that the runes/etching would look best right under the fuller. Plus that would allow the freedom to make decent sized characters.
 
Originally posted by pendentive
Here's a new timeline:

  • Apr. 9 - wood model arrives in Nepal
  • ~May 5-10 - scrams arrive in NV - (8 to Keith)
  • ~May 12 - scrams arrive in IN
  • ~May 19-23 - scrams arrive at your home
Click to expand...

This was my post on 04-07-2003 12:09 PM

Not bad, eh?

Only a week off...:rolleyes: :footinmou
 
Keith

Now that the cute lil' buggers are in - do you have a time estimate for getting the work done?

Dan
 
Re: Scabbard

I'm hoping the ones I'll make turn out something like these

Knives1.jpg



Sarge
 
Sarge - going to be add the tooling as well?
 
I'm thinking about making one similar to the above sheath, but with a slightly angled mount - intended for cross draw carry.

I still think a small-of-the-back belt sheath would have been best. *sigh*
 
Sarge, that regia.org pic was the exact pic I was working off of for the model scabbard I sent out.

Only difference was that the model sheath was made out of beer cans and the cardboard from a six pack of heineken, instead of brass and leather like the real thing.:p

Still wondering what Uncle thought of that sheath...

-Dave
 
Dave, just for grins I'll try modifying one of the supplied scabbards by reversing the straps and losing the snap. Might work, can't hurt, besides the sarki put a lot of work into 'em, it'd be wasteful just to toss 'em (call me sick, but I actually like chapes). My homemade sheaths won't be a problem, leather from Tandy, brass strip and brass rod for rivets from Lowe's, piece of cake.:D

Sarge
 
What I like the most about seax sheath is that there is no real need for stitching or gluing to hold it together, just folded metal and some rivets.

The only hard part is trying to bend the folded leather to match the "break" in the spine of the blade...

BTW, anyone have any feelings as to chiruwa vs. stick tang on these things? Pendentive?

-Dave
 
Well, I'm probably to blame for the chiruwa. I intended it to look stick tang and I think that was in the list I gave to Pala.

However, the handle of the wood model was made by laminating several short layers of 1/4" basswood onto one long piece (for the blade).

Essentially, I put it together as you would if it were a chiruwa - but intended it to look like a stick tang.

The kamis read it how they wanted to and that's why we got what we've got.

Frankly, I don't think the chiruwa looks as good as a stick tang would have. However, I do like the idea that it's faster in the hand and better balanced. After all, it was never meant to be a chopper.

Keep in mind, too, that the blade is at most 1/4" thick. So, it shouldn't be heavy in the hand.

Hope Sarge likes the beefy handle. Anybody who wants to complain about it being too big - send 'em to Sarge. :p

:D


Re: sheath

I had no idea that was supposed to actually be metal at the edge of the sheath. I thought it was just supposed another piece of leather. :confused:

Keith says the knives lock up pretty good, so here's my thoughts for an easy mod - to keep the sheath:

1. remove snap-n-flap (just the overlapping part)
2. remove hanging straps - save for later
3. add metal/brass/copper ;) strip to the sheath and peen.
4. make smaller loops out of straps (poss. include in one of the pins to be peened - for sturdiness and pivoting)
5. (optional) remove the chape

All in all, I think this could be done in an hour or two by even the most clumsy of any of us.
 
Hope Sarge likes the beefy handle. Anybody who wants to complain about it being too big - send 'em to Sarge.
Click to expand...

Don't reckon I'll get too many takers, that beefy handle looks well contoured and comfortable. If I'd been told they were going to be made chiruwa, I would have squalled like a scalded alley cat. But having now seen them, I'm pretty happy they were done as they are. Puts more weight in the handle for a more neutral balance. These aren't "weight forward" choppers, they're fighting knives, meant for slashing and piercing in a quick and efficient manner. Even chiruwa handles can be prettied up with mosaic pins, inlays, and such, so they might be more limited to mods than enlosed tang, but they can still be decorated to suit individual tastes.

The sheaths may not have turned out "perzactly" right, but given no direct channel of feedback between designer and craftsman, I'm impressed with how close to the mark the sarki got it.

All in all, I think the scramaseaxes turned out well enough, and certainly generated enough interest, to warrant asking for another possible production run in the near future. I call that a success and think kudos are in order for Dan, Dave, Keith, Sher, and last but not least Uncle Bill, for making this fine blade a reality.

Sarge
 
Hi, All:

I'll be beginning the etching this weekend, and I'll have an update early next week on the progress.

As I was discussing with Pen, the fullers are tiny and deep, which would obscure the runes pretty bad, If I could get the maks to stick there in the first place. Soo, the fix is to etch the rune lines just under the fuller, using the fuller as a line guide.

Since the fittings are steel, I was thinking the buttcap would be a good alternate location for the T-rune. If I don't hear from anyone regarding this, I will just etch the Tiw rune on the blade.

Also, There are 4 horn and 4 wood, not 3horn and 4wood. Sarge had expressed interest in having one of each (he ordered 2) handle material. Sarge--is that cool? If not, Pen has said that he'd be fine with a horn handle as well. Get back to me on that.

More updates to follow.

Keith

P.S. Check out this link for info on the ancient god of the Seax, Seaxnot (or Seaxneat):
http://www.englishheathenism.homestead.com/seaxneat.html
 
Originally posted by Ferrous Wheel
Since the fittings are steel, I was thinking the buttcap would be a good alternate location for the T-rune.
Click to expand...
I really like this idea. Count me in!

Also, requesting my ogham to be on the left side of the blade, wherever it fits best - under the fuller sounds perfect.

Dan
 
Hey Keith instead of the Tiw Rune on the buttcap of mine can you place the Sow Rune?
B
 
Uh Keith, remember this one?

Keith, regarding handles, some buffalo shin bone would be outrageous, but realistically speaking, I'd like both of mine in wood if possible. If the "wood" turns out being black, glossy, former head adornment of a bovine, I won't cry none about that either. Just figured wood would be more proper for a Scram handle.

Sarge


I'd still like 'em both in wood if possible, the horn wouldn't be the best choice for reenactment purposes. Not really that big a deal, so I'll trust in your judgement.

Sarge
 
then it is settled. You can have one of each!

Keith

Sweet: I'll make that adjustment to my work order list. Good choice! S is for Sweet...

Keith
 
The pen knife model originally had the same slab style construction, but the kamis made it properly with a stick tang.

Looks like I should have gone the extra mile and built a wooden (!) stick tang model for the seax. :eek:

BTW, modifying those sheaths is not a bad idea at all.:)

-Dave
 
Hey Keith, thanks on the Rune change
I actually like the way everything looks, Im not arse retentive about historical looks anyways...I'm glad I got in on one cool looking blade and sheath, if one wanted to change it to look historical it would be a simple thing since the tang is already thick and wide...no clue what the Kamis would have done with the tang if they sticked it
Thanks Keith
Ben
 
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