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Hidden tang design question
- Thread starter coop7
- Start date
Hengelo_77
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- Mar 2, 2006
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looks a bit short to me.
Try and start the top line of the tang a bit higher and draw it more horisontal.
That should give you a tang app. 3/4 lenght
Try and start the top line of the tang a bit higher and draw it more horisontal.
That should give you a tang app. 3/4 lenght
It looks a bit short to me as well. Might I recommend giving the handle a little less drop, this would allow you to easily extend the tang a bit further. Also, draw your knife with the guard flush to near flush with the spine and see if you like it. It helps with the flow of the knife in my opinion.
Good luck!
Chris
Edited to add...
I see you are also from Kansas, but unsure where as the whole state is the middle of nowhere!
There is a get together this weekend in Alta Vista put on by KCKA (http://www.kansasknives.org/). I'm not sure if I'll be able to make it or not, but you would most certainly be welcome to come by, visit and get advice from some really skilled individuals.
Chris
Good luck!
Chris
Edited to add...
I see you are also from Kansas, but unsure where as the whole state is the middle of nowhere!
There is a get together this weekend in Alta Vista put on by KCKA (http://www.kansasknives.org/). I'm not sure if I'll be able to make it or not, but you would most certainly be welcome to come by, visit and get advice from some really skilled individuals.Chris
Last edited:
- Joined
- Apr 9, 2012
- Messages
- 318
It looks a bit short to me as well. Might I recommend giving the handle a little less drop, this would allow you to easily extend the tang a bit further. Also, draw your knife with the guard flush to near flush with the spine and see if you like it. It helps with the flow of the knife in my opinion.
Good luck!
Chris
Edited to add...
I see you are also from Kansas, but unsure where as the whole state is the middle of nowhere!
Chris
Thanks for tips! I was actually on the website the other day to see if anyone lived close to me to see if I could bug them. Probably won't be able to make meeting but thanks for the heads up!
Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith
ilmarinen - MODERATOR
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- Aug 20, 2004
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- 37,721
Curve the tang. Drill the hole half way from the bottom angle and then deeper from the top side and it will make a "curved" hole. Look at your first drawing and you will see what I mean.
The way you drew it the second time has a high risk of sanding into the epoxy filled channel when finishing the handle. That is why many of use dye the epoxy to match the wood
Ask any maker who has done hidden tang knives and you will find everyone has accidentally done this.
The transition from the shoulders to the tang should be a 1/4" radius. Do not make it a 90 degree angle as drawn ... unless you like broken blades.
The way you drew it the second time has a high risk of sanding into the epoxy filled channel when finishing the handle. That is why many of use dye the epoxy to match the wood
Ask any maker who has done hidden tang knives and you will find everyone has accidentally done this.
The transition from the shoulders to the tang should be a 1/4" radius. Do not make it a 90 degree angle as drawn ... unless you like broken blades.
- Joined
- Jun 30, 2004
- Messages
- 376
yea, curve the tang. drilling the handle hole can make for some extra work but it is worth it. A segmented, multi-piece handle can make dealing with curved tangs much easier if you are into that look.
I know some folks who make special tools for reaming the hole for the curvature.. Imagine a small bar of hardened steel with a chisel like birds beak on the end that is used to scrape on the draw stroke.. scrape until it fits.. The bar can be curved a bit to help access around the curve of the hole.
I know some folks who make special tools for reaming the hole for the curvature.. Imagine a small bar of hardened steel with a chisel like birds beak on the end that is used to scrape on the draw stroke.. scrape until it fits.. The bar can be curved a bit to help access around the curve of the hole.
Drew Riley
Knifemaker / Craftsman / Service Provider
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- Oct 17, 2007
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- 4,227
Those are called handle broaches. There used to be a couple of makers who sold them, although they're easy enough to make out of some flat stock that matches the tang thickness.
Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith
ilmarinen - MODERATOR
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I don't have the stuff at work to show it in a sketch, but using your first drawing:
Lay a flat edge from the top tang/ricasso junction through the rivet hole. Draw that line down the handle. That is the upper drill hole.
The existing line of the bottom of the tang is the lower drill hole.
Drill the upper hole straight back into the handle about 3-4" deep.
Drill the lower hole until it hits the upper hole. Wallow out the web with a drill bit or use a broach. Open up the back end of the hole as needed.
Grind or forge the tang to make the appropriate curve. If the fit is tight, it will burn in easily by heating the tang red and sticking it in and out.
Tips:
1) Your drills make round holes, so why does your tang have square edges? Round over the tang all along the top and bottom sides. This makes fitting the blade easier.
2) The tang on a knife does not need to be a wide slab of steel. After the first inch or so it can be nothing more than a round piece of rod. Make the shoulders and carry the tang back the first inch and a half, and then reduce to about 1/4" wide. (There is no need for a continuous taper as your second drawing shows. )
This stepped shaping will allow the use of a 1/4" drill to fit the longer part of the tang ... including through tangs. It also greatly helps making and fitting curved tangs.
On a damascus blade, make a 1.5" tang and weld a piece of 1/4" round stock on it. This will make a long and strong tang and save expensive damascus.
Lay a flat edge from the top tang/ricasso junction through the rivet hole. Draw that line down the handle. That is the upper drill hole.
The existing line of the bottom of the tang is the lower drill hole.
Drill the upper hole straight back into the handle about 3-4" deep.
Drill the lower hole until it hits the upper hole. Wallow out the web with a drill bit or use a broach. Open up the back end of the hole as needed.
Grind or forge the tang to make the appropriate curve. If the fit is tight, it will burn in easily by heating the tang red and sticking it in and out.
Tips:
1) Your drills make round holes, so why does your tang have square edges? Round over the tang all along the top and bottom sides. This makes fitting the blade easier.
2) The tang on a knife does not need to be a wide slab of steel. After the first inch or so it can be nothing more than a round piece of rod. Make the shoulders and carry the tang back the first inch and a half, and then reduce to about 1/4" wide. (There is no need for a continuous taper as your second drawing shows. )
This stepped shaping will allow the use of a 1/4" drill to fit the longer part of the tang ... including through tangs. It also greatly helps making and fitting curved tangs.
On a damascus blade, make a 1.5" tang and weld a piece of 1/4" round stock on it. This will make a long and strong tang and save expensive damascus.