Higonokami knives

nozh2002

nozh2002

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I got them in Yokohama in Kikuhide shop. This is traditional knives know for at least 100 years in modern design. With very simple handle they have laminated blade with Yosuki Special Steels - Shirogami or Aogami steel in core (top custom makers steel in Japan).
Shirogami (Hitachi White Label (paper) or Hitachi White Steel):
C=1.3 Mn=0.2 P=0.025 Si=0.1 S=0.04
Aogami (Hitachi Blue Label (paper) or Hitachi Blue Steel) - same but with Tungsten and Cromium:
C=1.3 Mn=0.2 P=0.025 Si=0.1 S=0.04 Cr=0.2-0.5% W=1-1.5%

Higonokami-01.jpg


Higonokami-11.jpg


Higonokami-13.jpg


Higonokami-08.jpg


Higonokami-12.jpg


Higonokami-15.jpg


This cool knives cost:

Kikuhide-04.jpg


...nothing!

This is real working knives widely used in Japan for at least last century. I am really excited about them!

Thanks, Vassili.
 
This deserves a response.

Great pictures. I'd like to pick up one of these at some point. Any comments on cutting/edge holding/strength or anything else?
 
I have been using one for several years,made by this gentleman:
http://www.ehamono.com/master/repo/nagao.html
I sharpen it without the secondary edge bevel and it works well on dry bamboo.The edge-holding ability is comparable to my VG10 Calypso,but I use it on wood and bamboo only.Mine is made of blue paper steel laminated in wrought iron,even so,sharpening takes about an hour when completely dull.I'm thinking about putting a secondary edge bevel on it.
 
I might be able to help a bit here :D I purchased 2 of the brass ones from Lee Valley Tools of all places :D (www.leevalley.com) They have the 4 inch blade one with the brass handle (the top one) I purchased them about a month ago. For those interested it called a Japanese Carpenter's Knife, part 06D07.01.They are very crudely finished, in one sense, but then again, they are designed as work knives. For $16.50 CDN plus tax, pretty hard to go wrong :) They were easily as sharp, if not sharper than my Delica and Endura. It was actually really hard to tell, in one sense, by touching the edge, but you can tell it's sharp!! The first thing I did was just cut a piece of copier paper (20 lb bond)and you know when you do the paper cutting test (hold the paper in the air and do that 30 deg. cut thing?), if you inspect the cut edge, even with VG-10 and S30V you get the most minute edges sticking up? You have to look close, but it's there. With these blades it was cleaner :eek: Like using a scalpel or razor blade.

I haven't really beat up on them or used them to any great extent yet, just the odd cutting task. The only recent comparison I can give you is when I was working with leather and cutting the waxed stitching thread - it's only anecdotal, but I normally will use my Delica or M16 because of the point, when you finish. When they are sharp it doesn't take a lot of pressure to cut that thread - the carpenter knife cut it easier and cleaner, if that's an indicator. You can't really pocket it, because there is no locking mechanism - the lever on the top actually rests on the top of the cover and you put your thumb on it to hold the blade in place. Cutting always downwards - if I remember, there are even instructions in box. I find that these types of things are quite fun to collect or accumulate - it's a departure from the production styles that we are used to seeing - just something different. If you like "toys" for the shop/garden/whatever, Lee Valley Tools can be an expensive place. I swear it costs me an average of $70.00 (CDN) each time I go to "just look" :D

Hope this helps -gord
 
gordonk hello i was wondering how well the knives purchased from lee valley stay closed in your pocket or how "easy" it is to open or close the blade a response would be greatly appreciated
 
Iv got a couple of those too, there actually pretty handy wee knives.
 
Nozh, in case you don't know, the meanings of the various characters on the box are as follows:

first row of three characters - literally means 'this blade attached'

second and third rows, to be read vertically from right to left - means 'registered trademark'

the three prominent characters in a vertical column - name of the knifemaker

the last row of two characters - means 'specially made'

So the whole lot, read together, means 'this blade attached [in the box], bears the registered trademark of knifemaker xxx, and is specially made by him'.
 
White and blue steel is pretty good, high carbon steel. They like to heat treat it pretty hard, above 60rc most of the time.
I've had 2, think of them as little, crude straight razors.

I know some of the knifemakers in japan use Ao-ko, and shiro-ko steel mostly for kitchen cutlery and straight razors. I have to say from what I saw at the Tokyo guild show, ATS34 was probablt the most popular steel. A few of the traditional guys were useing tamahagnae.
 
Garrett Wade actually sells a knife of this kind for $21.20. I was on the fence about buying it, but now I'm gonna get it as soon as they have it in stock again.
 
I bought a higonikami knife at a hardware store in Little Tokyo for $10. It has a silver stainless handle without the finger grooves. Blade is about 2 3/4" and handle is about 3 5/8". It's a neat knife and dosn't take up a lot of pocket space.
 
Can i carry it freely in my pocket or should i make a pocket sheath the one from lee valley that is does anynoe have experience with this particular model
 
Nice to see so old thread coming back.

bchan77 said:
Nozh, in case you don't know, the meanings of the various characters on the box are as follows:

first row of three characters - literally means 'this blade attached'

second and third rows, to be read vertically from right to left - means 'registered trademark'

the three prominent characters in a vertical column - name of the knifemaker

the last row of two characters - means 'specially made'

So the whole lot, read together, means 'this blade attached [in the box], bears the registered trademark of knifemaker xxx, and is specially made by him'.
Click to expand...

Can you tell me who is maker xxx?

After 4 years I can add that of course this price does not came for free. Brass handle touch the edge and make it dull, but most important make it corrodes because of bi metal chemestry or something... Some of the blade where over hardened and can be sharpened only with water stones (which all Japanese uses anyway).

But as I understad this is more or less disposable knife with best steel but without everything else - little wrap of brass around does not really make it handle. But if you like tailor and have it all the time on the table like scizlers - it is not a problem.

Thanks, Vassili.
 
What I mean is that '肥後守'is the name of the knifemaker (manufacturer). Also, the words '菊秀' on the handles is the name of the shop.

I also understand that the present owner is the fourth generation of his family involved in making these folders. Unfortunately a fifth-generation owner is unlikely because his children are not interested in making knives. What you had bought you may not be able to buy it again (at least under the family name).
 
I understand that - my question is what is maker name in English transcription. I just like to know who make it.

Thanks, Vassili.
 
I had asked from BF member about this knives - so I bump it up.

Thanks, Vassili.
 
Thanks for postin noz ive been eyeing these knives for years now in various magazines and now i know alot more aobut them.
 
Hmm, very interesting. I'll definitely have a look when I am in Japan. I am primarily interested in Japanes swords, especially wakizashis (the 'backup swords') and iaitos for training purposes. I have several aluminum-zinc alloied iaitos but I am looking for real katanas/shinkens.
 
Just a heads up Nohz, it is well documented that only waterstones will cut white/blue steel because it is at around 67 HRC. The steel is not over hardened, that is exactly how it's supposed to be.
 
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