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- Dec 21, 2006
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Since Hitachi White and Blue steel are available from a couple of different online vendors, Dictum and Workshopheaven, I thought about starting a thread that talked about these steels, particularly the heat treat requirements they need. Super Blue isn't available to us yet, AFAIK. Wish it was! I did a few quick searches to locate heat treat data on Shiro (white) and Ao (blue)...but about all I can find is the PDF file that has a couple of charts for hardening and tempering the two different steels, and the austenitizing temps have a wide margin. I don't think there are any real special requirements to consider when heat treating white or blue steels, but if anyone has experience with either, I would love your input.
White steel is much like 1095, just carbon, manganese, and some silicon. Blue steel is much like O7, with vanadium and tungsten. White steel being a super fine grained steel, and blue steel being not quite as fine grained but has the vanadium and tungsten carbides. White steel can take a super sharp edge....but loses that edge faster than blue. Blue steel can't take quite as fine an edge, and that edge lasts longer than White steel. When I say "not quite as sharp", or "doesn't last as long", this is relative to each other, not meaning to compare to other steels. I think we all know the Hitachi steels are super performers.
White steel can be quenched in water or oil, whereas the blue steel must be oil quenched. I don't know much more about Hitachi steels, other than their impurity level is very low. The sulfur and phosphorous levels are lower than most any other steel out there. Not sure what that translates to in real world use, tho.
If I was heat treating White steel, I would treat it like I would 1095, with an austenitizing temp of 1475F with a 10-15 minute soak. Tempering temp of 400F should get 61 hrc. However, with Blue steel, I'm curious as to other peoples thoughts on what temp they would pick for hardening. If no normalizing/grain refining was done....I might be inclined to go with 1530F. But if normalizing was done...I might stay with 1475F and treat it like I would White steel.
Would you care to add? Thanks so much
Stu
White steel is much like 1095, just carbon, manganese, and some silicon. Blue steel is much like O7, with vanadium and tungsten. White steel being a super fine grained steel, and blue steel being not quite as fine grained but has the vanadium and tungsten carbides. White steel can take a super sharp edge....but loses that edge faster than blue. Blue steel can't take quite as fine an edge, and that edge lasts longer than White steel. When I say "not quite as sharp", or "doesn't last as long", this is relative to each other, not meaning to compare to other steels. I think we all know the Hitachi steels are super performers.
White steel can be quenched in water or oil, whereas the blue steel must be oil quenched. I don't know much more about Hitachi steels, other than their impurity level is very low. The sulfur and phosphorous levels are lower than most any other steel out there. Not sure what that translates to in real world use, tho.
If I was heat treating White steel, I would treat it like I would 1095, with an austenitizing temp of 1475F with a 10-15 minute soak. Tempering temp of 400F should get 61 hrc. However, with Blue steel, I'm curious as to other peoples thoughts on what temp they would pick for hardening. If no normalizing/grain refining was done....I might be inclined to go with 1530F. But if normalizing was done...I might stay with 1475F and treat it like I would White steel.
Would you care to add? Thanks so much
Stu