I think there are a lot of ways to look at this, but I think some of the offerings out there specifically targeted at bushcraft are off base. Especially the enormous Tops BOB folder. If a folder is a bad idea because of the inherent weakness of the joint and lock, why increase the leverage with a long blade and handle?
Why a folder as a standalone? Traveling with a fixed blade isn't always a good idea, and you can't predict when those skills might become useful. An in-pocket bushcraft system isn't stupid, and it might be a good idea to actually give it a try before you have no choice.
Locks: An important feature on a knife that you are carving with the tip a lot. This type of stabbing motion is the reason lock backs became useful. The lock doesn't have to be the strongest on in the universe, but being there helps.
Some candidates:
Any really strong locking knife, mainly because you might be able to use it as a fixed blade replacement. When I say strong, I mean that the lock is strong, the blade stop is strong and blade pivot area is strong. When I look for knife failures on Google images, it is clear that the classic long lever lockback can be fragile when push cutting and the lock will fail backwards because it is acting as the blade stop. The CS Triad fixes the problem by adding a stop pin instead of forcing the lock arm to take that force. Liner locks may or may not be strong enough, depending on who you talk to. But there are definitely locks like the Triad, Bushman, Hogue button lock, Axis lock and Eka's special lock that are known to be very strong. As long as the rest of the knife is reasonably stout, you might be able to get away with some more adventuresome use for awhile.
Example of a weak blade pivot area:
Opinel. Some folks have a tough time with these antiques, but they offer a very useful and maintainable blade in a very light package. It is easy to shape, drill or add a clip to the handles. One of the finest features of the current Opinel is the lock. It is great because it can lock the blade closed for worry free carrying on a neck lanyard, and it is optional whether you lock the blade open. If you feel the need to baton with it, the technique of leaving the blade unlocked seems to work best. Additionally, if you do push the knife too hard, the lock will pop, but not break. Push it back on and you're back in business.
Another thing to consider with Opinels is that the larger the knife, the thicker the blade stock. One of these days I'm going to get a No. 10, spear point the blade (which will shorten it), then cut the handles down to match. You end up with a heftier blade in a No. 8 length package.
Finally, the sawblade equipped multitool or folder. Many bushcraft tasks the normally really on carving, chopping or batoning can be performed with little force by sawing. For instance, you could baton firewood using a wood wedge inserted into a sawn channel on the end. Or side cut a sapling or branch by sawing. The Evo/Wenger SAKs that came with a locking blade and saw also have an awl and tweezers - all mighty useful. The Rucksack by Victorinox also is available with a lock and larger blade. I have also seen people making a double ended Opinel out of their No. 12 locking saw.
For the most part, I really don't think most of the tactical folders would be the best choice. Stouter blades seem attractive, but a thinner blade for detail work combined with a strong pivot and mechanism is better from a brute force standpoint, and the saw carrying alternative may make even the toughest folder a second choice.
Those are my thoughts. I'd love to hear yours.
Why a folder as a standalone? Traveling with a fixed blade isn't always a good idea, and you can't predict when those skills might become useful. An in-pocket bushcraft system isn't stupid, and it might be a good idea to actually give it a try before you have no choice.
Locks: An important feature on a knife that you are carving with the tip a lot. This type of stabbing motion is the reason lock backs became useful. The lock doesn't have to be the strongest on in the universe, but being there helps.
Some candidates:
Any really strong locking knife, mainly because you might be able to use it as a fixed blade replacement. When I say strong, I mean that the lock is strong, the blade stop is strong and blade pivot area is strong. When I look for knife failures on Google images, it is clear that the classic long lever lockback can be fragile when push cutting and the lock will fail backwards because it is acting as the blade stop. The CS Triad fixes the problem by adding a stop pin instead of forcing the lock arm to take that force. Liner locks may or may not be strong enough, depending on who you talk to. But there are definitely locks like the Triad, Bushman, Hogue button lock, Axis lock and Eka's special lock that are known to be very strong. As long as the rest of the knife is reasonably stout, you might be able to get away with some more adventuresome use for awhile.
Example of a weak blade pivot area:
Opinel. Some folks have a tough time with these antiques, but they offer a very useful and maintainable blade in a very light package. It is easy to shape, drill or add a clip to the handles. One of the finest features of the current Opinel is the lock. It is great because it can lock the blade closed for worry free carrying on a neck lanyard, and it is optional whether you lock the blade open. If you feel the need to baton with it, the technique of leaving the blade unlocked seems to work best. Additionally, if you do push the knife too hard, the lock will pop, but not break. Push it back on and you're back in business.
Another thing to consider with Opinels is that the larger the knife, the thicker the blade stock. One of these days I'm going to get a No. 10, spear point the blade (which will shorten it), then cut the handles down to match. You end up with a heftier blade in a No. 8 length package.
Finally, the sawblade equipped multitool or folder. Many bushcraft tasks the normally really on carving, chopping or batoning can be performed with little force by sawing. For instance, you could baton firewood using a wood wedge inserted into a sawn channel on the end. Or side cut a sapling or branch by sawing. The Evo/Wenger SAKs that came with a locking blade and saw also have an awl and tweezers - all mighty useful. The Rucksack by Victorinox also is available with a lock and larger blade. I have also seen people making a double ended Opinel out of their No. 12 locking saw.
For the most part, I really don't think most of the tactical folders would be the best choice. Stouter blades seem attractive, but a thinner blade for detail work combined with a strong pivot and mechanism is better from a brute force standpoint, and the saw carrying alternative may make even the toughest folder a second choice.
Those are my thoughts. I'd love to hear yours.
