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Honing oil for arkansas stone?
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Bill DeShivs
Knifemaker / Craftsman / Service Provider
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I use WD 40 on mine.
David Martin
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I've heard many different oils being used.Mineral oil,kerosene, I use olive oil.But they all recommend the stone be washed after use.I would'nt use an Arkansas stone for knife steels that contain vanaduim.DM
I was always taught that with an arkansas stone you can use pretty much any light oil but once you start with oil you must continue with oil only. (and keep it clean) The last three arkansas stones I bought I have used water only from the start and it's working very well. Easier to clean up, no clogging and less messy especially if I'm in the kitchen doing all of the kitchen knives. In the shop I still use oil on arkansas stones that I've had forever. I am really starting to like using diamond stones with just a little water also.
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I use water less mess,growing up oil was always used on stones,seems it clogs them up and makes a mess...........
David Martin
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Yes, it will clog the stone depending on the oil used.DM
hmm never heard using water.. i may try that or somekind of oil. i dont mind scrubbing comet onto a stone. only takes a few minutes. the reason why i asked was bc before i came to this board i had already ordered an ark stone (funny i cant remember if its fine or medium-- uh oh lol).. i wish i would have waited and bought some diamond stones
can you list those steels? i have 1095 carbon and different stainless steels
Vanadium is mostly used in "stainless" steels. Increases strength and controls carbide formation size.
Some steels containing Vanadium are 440C (not 440A or 440B), AUS8, CPM-S30V (Also called S30V), CPM440V, D-2, M-2, M-4, O-1, Z60CDV14 are a few.
I wouldn't worry about it too much. Your Arkansas stone will work on them just slower on the harder steels. Especially if you are only using the one grit (stone). I just don't really like an Arkansas stone that much. They usually have small anomalies of harder and softer areas, variable grit size, open pockets with no stone, and other irregularities in them. I prefer Japanese water stones. Synthetic ones are good. I like to progress through graduated stones of known grit. I like my Shapton Glass stones. Most here seem to like diamond plates. Most natural stones produced today are either irregular or very very expensive. Synthetic stones are usually very consistent and a lot cheaper.
Oil or water is supposedly used to float the swarf from sharpening out of the stone and keep it clean. Water is also be used to make a grit past (mud) slurry on some stones that aids in cutting and polishing. Some also use stones dry and swear they work better that way (Razor Edge Systems). You then have to clean the stone after each use by brushing and taping it off.
I grew up with oil stones too. I have always heard and read that you should stay with oil if you start with oil. Water doesn't work on a stone that is saturated with oil. I have never tried switching. Water works fine on an Arkansas stone but maybe not after using it with oil. You should avoid getting even trace amounts of oil on water stones or any stone used with water.
Water is all the things mentioned in the previous posts and also much more readily available. If you do try it, try adding a drop of dish washing detergent into the water. Make yourself up a little squirt (squeeze) bottle (like the bottle the dish washing liquid came in) with a few drops of dish washing detergent in the water and use it on your stone. It breaks down the surface tension of the water, makes it feel better and spread over and into the stone easier.
I have heard of folks changing from oil to water with Arkansas or aluminum Oxide and other bench stones after soaking the stone in mineral spirits (paint thinner) and then soapy water. Sounds like a PITA.
Gary
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good info man. this stone has never been used. ill use water and maybe some dawn to go with it.. one day ill break down and get diamond stones but i want to learn how to hand sharpen first imo
I probably shouldn't have said "Stainless Steels". Alloy steels would be a better term for those that contain Vanadium, but many of those are so called Stainless as well.
Your 1095 is considered a plain carbon steel. Doesn't hold an edge as well as some but takes an edge better then most with few headaches. I like it and A2 very much. A2 is an alloy steel and does have Chromium and Vanadium in it but is not considered "Stainless". It is probably more corrosion resistant then 1095 but it does patina well and can rust. It also holds an edge a little better at the same hardness and is probably a little harder to sharpen but I don't really notice the difference.
Don't get carried away with the Dawn. Just a drop or so to a cup of water will do the job. You don't want suds. You might also try soaking the stone in the water before sharpening and add more as necessary while sharpening.
With the oil stone you would be oiling your knife automatically when you sharpened. When sharpening with water you probably want to oil the knife after sharpening. Mineral oil works fine. Most of it is food grade, the stuff you find in the pharmacy, is nontoxic and available about every where. It is preferred by many in the kitchen and also works well on wood handles and wood cutting boards so it is versatile. Baby oil is mineral oil + fragrance. I use boiled linseed oil on handles because it is more durable, but most folks recommend mineral oil because linseed oil is not food grade and used to have lead or other heavy metals in it as drying agents. It doesn't anymore. Tru oil works well on wood handles too and even more durable.
Most any oil will probably do, WD-40, motor oil, etc although some have toxic additives in them if you are using around food. I use Break Free on out door knives and mineral oil on knives, handles, and cutting boards in the kitchen, although I sometimes use outdoor knives on food. I just oil them and wipe them off with a dry cloth or paper towel.
Gary
Your 1095 is considered a plain carbon steel. Doesn't hold an edge as well as some but takes an edge better then most with few headaches. I like it and A2 very much. A2 is an alloy steel and does have Chromium and Vanadium in it but is not considered "Stainless". It is probably more corrosion resistant then 1095 but it does patina well and can rust. It also holds an edge a little better at the same hardness and is probably a little harder to sharpen but I don't really notice the difference.
Don't get carried away with the Dawn. Just a drop or so to a cup of water will do the job. You don't want suds. You might also try soaking the stone in the water before sharpening and add more as necessary while sharpening.
With the oil stone you would be oiling your knife automatically when you sharpened. When sharpening with water you probably want to oil the knife after sharpening. Mineral oil works fine. Most of it is food grade, the stuff you find in the pharmacy, is nontoxic and available about every where. It is preferred by many in the kitchen and also works well on wood handles and wood cutting boards so it is versatile. Baby oil is mineral oil + fragrance. I use boiled linseed oil on handles because it is more durable, but most folks recommend mineral oil because linseed oil is not food grade and used to have lead or other heavy metals in it as drying agents. It doesn't anymore. Tru oil works well on wood handles too and even more durable.
Most any oil will probably do, WD-40, motor oil, etc although some have toxic additives in them if you are using around food. I use Break Free on out door knives and mineral oil on knives, handles, and cutting boards in the kitchen, although I sometimes use outdoor knives on food. I just oil them and wipe them off with a dry cloth or paper towel.
Gary
Last edited:
David Martin
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440C does not contain vanadium.440V is a CPM designation thats been long since done away.Its S60V, S90V, S30V, ect..Arkansas stones will NOT work on those steels. The carbides in them are just too hard to be sharpened by a Arkansas stone.AUS8, AUS6, 425M are examples of stainless steels containing small amounts of vanadium which because of their very small amounts CAN still be sharpened by Arkansas stones.Its when the steel gets up to 1% vanadium (like D2)that gives Arkansas stones problems.The CPM steels contain more than that.Using AO stones has no problem cutting it.Diamonds do it faster but other stones will cut it as well.DM
i have an aus8 (ontario RAT 1) and the soft stone did well puting the edge back on (blade folded over) and i stroped it with an old brown leather belt (inside of the belt) and its sharper now..
Than, not then.
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