Horizontal Grinder Building - Thinking it through...

KMG has a good looking rubber coated 4" tracking wheel for $98 plus shipping - isn't that what you're looking for? One advantage of the rubber coated wheel it can be used for grinding. Rubber/poly coated wheels grind so much nicer than solid metal.
 
KMG has a good looking rubber coated 4" tracking wheel for $98 plus shipping - isn't that what you're looking for? One advantage of the rubber coated wheel it can be used for grinding. Rubber/poly coated wheels grind so much nicer than solid metal.

Looking for a rubber drive wheel to eliminate slipping, but it's probably not that big a deal. I know I won't be hogging on this grinder.
 
I most likely will get my tracking and drive wheels from Beaumont. I wanted a rubberized drive, but I just can't find a good one. Saw one guy on youtube case a resin/rubber compound of some sort on a drive wheel (or was it a contact wheel?). Anyway, it didn't look very convincing as a solution.

I bought some 2 part polyurethane 80 durometer to try this once upon a time. I was going to cut some channels or something in the wheel to help lock it in and turn the OD concentric after it set up. Still haven't tried it.
 
I most likely will get my tracking and drive wheels from Beaumont. I wanted a rubberized drive, but I just can't find a good one. Saw one guy on youtube case a resin/rubber compound of some sort on a drive wheel (or was it a contact wheel?). Anyway, it didn't look very convincing as a solution.

yes I'm saying get a rubber drive wheel form KMG, that's what I have on my horizontal
 
yes I'm saying get a rubber drive wheel form KMG, that's what I have on my horizontal

I didn't see it on their site. I'll have to drop them an email. Thanks H!

So I am thinking of cutting a hole in my 5/8 plate and then cut a steel plate to fit over it and mount the motor to the steel plate. Something like this... There are a couple of reasons for this with my design.
If I don't have a mill, how can I cut that hole in the thick aluminum? Rotozip with some special bit? Jig saw? :\
 
Jig saw will do it. Router would do it. If you used a router you could control your depth of cut.

You could skip all that and just drill a clearance hole for the shaft, use a router and a jig to mill a channel for the C-Face ring, who cares what kind of fit it has. Four 3/8-16 bolts is plenty to keep it from moving around and you don't require precise location like most things C-face motors are used for.
 
Jig saw will do it. Router would do it. If you used a router you could control your depth of cut.

You could skip all that and just drill a clearance hole for the shaft, use a router and a jig to mill a channel for the C-Face ring, who cares what kind of fit it has. Four 3/8-16 bolts is plenty to keep it from moving around and you don't require precise location like most things C-face motors are used for.


what kind of bit would you use you if you used a router? carbide burr?
 
I'm making progress on my horizontal grinder also - got VFD drive, got 1-1/2 hp motor, got tracking assembly built (mostly copied KMG tracking setup. Got aluminum metal on order for the baseplate. Here's the idea I've got for layout at this time. I'm not sure about the slack belt portion, I do a good bit on vertical grinder, both when sharpening and shaping handles.

I'm hoping the small wheel section will allow me to put the 1/2" small wheel in place, and have enough turn over ends of the two platens for the lengthwise grinding of blade flats we've talked about before. Right now, I've got a 2.5" aluminum tracking wheel in the tension setup, but plan to replace with a 4" UHWM plastic wheel. I'm using a 4" UHWM wheel for tracking on my vertical grinder and it's working pretty good. I'm not sure how well it would work for a production grinder that's in use 40 to 50 hrs/wk, but for my hobby use, I think it's going to work ok. I've got the small wheel system made along with wheels. Got 3 more 4" UHMW wheels turned, just need to machine for bearings.

I've not got details worked out on how to make the adjustable work rests, but do plan for them to be adjustable rather than fixed.

Horizontal_Grinder.jpg
@Ken H , every time when you change dia. on small wheel on your grinder you will need to readjust platen behind belt .I still thinking how to build my future horizontal grinder but in on thing I m sure..........I think this is best solution for small wheel change . Just turn wheel you need and lock .No need to adjust platen . I think that worth effort to make this .
sXFfaGT.jpg
 
what kind of bit would you use you if you used a router? carbide burr?

A regular carbide trim bit. One with the guide on top would be easier to make a jig for. Otherwise unguided and a jig for your routers table/platen.
 
Four 3/8-16 bolts is plenty to keep it from moving around and you don't require precise location like most things C-face motors are used for.

Exactly correct - location is pretty general, the only critical thing is for the shaft to be exact vertical, and the plate will hold that just fine.

@Ken H , every time when you change dia. on small wheel on your grinder you will need to readjust platen behind belt .I still thinking how to build my future horizontal grinder but in on thing I m sure..........I think this is best solution for small wheel change . Just turn wheel you need and lock .No need to adjust platen . I think that worth effort to make this .

That rotary small wheel setup is slick for sure. I've been considering how much changing wheels was going to affect, and best way to correct. I was thinking the platen might be easy to move, another issue still working on.
 
why don't u just come over one day and use my mill and do all your stuff? ;)

I appreciate that H, and I might take you up on it. The problem is I don't have it all dialed in quite yet. I am getting there, but there are still variables in the design I am working out.
But thanks buddy. I just might! :)
 
Or AC model.. I'm kind of stuck / confused on 1800 RMP vs 3600? The Esteem runs 1800 motor.
And I think 1 HP will suite me. I could go ether 1 or 2, but I think 1 is plenty for this application.
 
Rather than building a dedicated horizontal grinder I think it is more practical to build a standard 2 x 72 grinder and flip it on a hinge when you need horizontal applications. Just my opinion. Larry

v9rW1lFh.jpg
 
Rather than building a dedicated horizontal grinder I think it is more practical to build a standard 2 x 72 grinder and flip it on a hinge when you need horizontal applications. Just my opinion. Larry

I get that Larry. I want another grinder so I don't have to flip and change constantly. :)
Get it before I retire eh? When that day comes things will be a little bit tighter.
 
I understand about not wanting to flip and change constantly...in fact I left this grinder in the horizontal position with a Travis Wuertz surface grinder attachment on it for the last couple years. I use my regular 2x72 for everything else. If you can do it having two grinders is really great. Larry
 
I understand about not wanting to flip and change constantly...in fact I left this grinder in the horizontal position with a Travis Wuertz surface grinder attachment on it for the last couple years. I use my regular 2x72 for everything else. If you can do it having two grinders is really great. Larry

This is how I do it. In fact, I'm waiting for my third grinder now, two of them will have the horizontal mode option. All three are are direct drive 3 HP, connected to VFD.
  • I use one for vertical work, heavy hogging, grinding bevels etc.
  • One is almost always horizontal, for use with the small wheels, horizontal flat platen profiling and my lengthwise grinding platen.
  • The third is going to be in horizontal mode for the most, with the SGA attached
 
Brock, nobody had responded to your question about 1800 vs 3600 rpm motor. If price where the same, I'd go with 1800 rpm for the horizontal grinder. From your discussion it seems you're not planning to hog with the grinder, but use it same as I will, low rpm and low torque requirements, hence the 1hp motor. With a 4" drive wheel and 1800 you'll be running around 2,000 sfpm belt speed which should be just fine. I went with 1-1/2 hp - don't think I'll need that much power, and on reflection maybe I should have went with 1800 rpm 1hp motor. The cost of a 1 hp, 1800 rpm motor is only $11 more than the 3600 rpm 1-1/2 hp motor so I did get the 1-1/2 hp motor.

Not considering the price, I'd go with 1800 rpm.
 
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