KMG has a good looking rubber coated 4" tracking wheel for $98 plus shipping - isn't that what you're looking for? One advantage of the rubber coated wheel it can be used for grinding. Rubber/poly coated wheels grind so much nicer than solid metal.
I most likely will get my tracking and drive wheels from Beaumont. I wanted a rubberized drive, but I just can't find a good one. Saw one guy on youtube case a resin/rubber compound of some sort on a drive wheel (or was it a contact wheel?). Anyway, it didn't look very convincing as a solution.
I most likely will get my tracking and drive wheels from Beaumont. I wanted a rubberized drive, but I just can't find a good one. Saw one guy on youtube case a resin/rubber compound of some sort on a drive wheel (or was it a contact wheel?). Anyway, it didn't look very convincing as a solution.
yes I'm saying get a rubber drive wheel form KMG, that's what I have on my horizontal
Jig saw will do it. Router would do it. If you used a router you could control your depth of cut.
You could skip all that and just drill a clearance hole for the shaft, use a router and a jig to mill a channel for the C-Face ring, who cares what kind of fit it has. Four 3/8-16 bolts is plenty to keep it from moving around and you don't require precise location like most things C-face motors are used for.
@Ken H , every time when you change dia. on small wheel on your grinder you will need to readjust platen behind belt .I still thinking how to build my future horizontal grinder but in on thing I m sure..........I think this is best solution for small wheel change . Just turn wheel you need and lock .No need to adjust platen . I think that worth effort to make this .I'm making progress on my horizontal grinder also - got VFD drive, got 1-1/2 hp motor, got tracking assembly built (mostly copied KMG tracking setup. Got aluminum metal on order for the baseplate. Here's the idea I've got for layout at this time. I'm not sure about the slack belt portion, I do a good bit on vertical grinder, both when sharpening and shaping handles.
I'm hoping the small wheel section will allow me to put the 1/2" small wheel in place, and have enough turn over ends of the two platens for the lengthwise grinding of blade flats we've talked about before. Right now, I've got a 2.5" aluminum tracking wheel in the tension setup, but plan to replace with a 4" UHWM plastic wheel. I'm using a 4" UHWM wheel for tracking on my vertical grinder and it's working pretty good. I'm not sure how well it would work for a production grinder that's in use 40 to 50 hrs/wk, but for my hobby use, I think it's going to work ok. I've got the small wheel system made along with wheels. Got 3 more 4" UHMW wheels turned, just need to machine for bearings.
I've not got details worked out on how to make the adjustable work rests, but do plan for them to be adjustable rather than fixed.
what kind of bit would you use you if you used a router? carbide burr?
Four 3/8-16 bolts is plenty to keep it from moving around and you don't require precise location like most things C-face motors are used for.
@Ken H , every time when you change dia. on small wheel on your grinder you will need to readjust platen behind belt .I still thinking how to build my future horizontal grinder but in on thing I m sure..........I think this is best solution for small wheel change . Just turn wheel you need and lock .No need to adjust platen . I think that worth effort to make this .
why don't u just come over one day and use my mill and do all your stuff?
Rather than building a dedicated horizontal grinder I think it is more practical to build a standard 2 x 72 grinder and flip it on a hinge when you need horizontal applications. Just my opinion. Larry
I understand about not wanting to flip and change constantly...in fact I left this grinder in the horizontal position with a Travis Wuertz surface grinder attachment on it for the last couple years. I use my regular 2x72 for everything else. If you can do it having two grinders is really great. Larry