Hot beeswax and mink oil for leather?

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Jan 24, 2001
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I have noticed a couple of references of folks using a hot beeswax and mink oil combo on their sheaths. I would sure like to know more about this method of finishing and waterproofing sheaths. Someone give me more information please. What portions of each? Beeswax is common, what type mink oil and where are you getting it? How are you heating it and how hot? Dyed leather OK? I typically wet my leather and mold in a pocket for the knife is this OK? Any info appreciated.
 
Hey Bill,

Good results can be had with a commercial product known as "Snow Seal"...beeswax base...use a hair dyer or a heat gun to get it to sink in...good stuff...but it will darken leather pretty substantially...

Use Gum Tracanth to finish edges to a slick finish...leaves them just dandy...that tip may not be well known among knife makers...but is among leather workers...

Shane
 
Bill-

I like the way Sandy put it to me once. He referenced the amount of time a hunting knife is actually carried vs. how often a police officer carries their gear on their belt.

Then asked, do you think they still treat police officers' gear with oil and wax etc.

"Uh, I dunno." I said.

"NO! They use the treatments that are now commercially available."

Seemed pretty convincing to me. Now one could argue that they don't use those things anymore due to convenience factors, I don't know for sure.

But I've been using Tandy Satin Sheen, or Fiebings Leather Sheen with really good results.

Nothing wrong with trying something new though. :)

-Nick-
 
Hi Bill


I'm no expert but I use beeswax (or sometimes parrafin) with mink oil. The mink oil can be found at any shoe shoe and boot store. 2 blocks wax to 1 small bottle or can of mink oil. I sacraficed an old loaf pan for the mix and I heat it in boiling water - so I guess to about 212 degrees. I dip twice (Quickly pouring out extra back into the pan) and finish off with a hair dryer and a buff with an old dish cloth. I can't say about dyed leather because I only use vehetable tan leather (kinder to steel) and it doesn't dye all that well.

To be honest, I'm not sure if it's any better than modern commercial preparations, but the kind of person that buys a handmade knife likes the sound of traditional treatments. The sound of 'long chain polymerized pertroleum bases pfiphistate' just doesn't impress them no matter how good it performs.:rolleyes:

I think it was Bruce Evans' site where I found the method I use.

My 2 cents.
 
Nick if Sandy doesn't use the beeswax and mink oil that is pretty well all I need to know. That ol goat (grin) has forgot more about leather and knife sheaths than you and I put together will ever learn. I have started using Briwax on the outsides of mine and really like the finish.

My primary concern was the inside of the sheaths since we can't get in there with anything. Nick are you pouring or getting the stuff inside somehow or is it even needed on the inside?? Hmmm - maybe I need to coat the inside while it is still flat huh - DUH? The last sheath finished up really nice Nick.
 
Bill, I coat the inside with the same stuff.

I took a 3/32" 416 pin (12" long) and bent it around into an eye on one end. Then I can run a sponge or rag down into the sheath with the Sheen on it. Sort of like running a patch down into a rifle barrel.

-Nick-
 
Treat the inside before you stitch it up. Just stay off the glue line.
Sandy stains the inside surface prior to gluing and stitching. I've never seen him use a "sealer" on the inside just the stain (not saying he doesen't, just never seen him do it, and I've watched him many, many times). The man is fast and efficient to say the least, and he knows his stuff.
 
I bought some bees wax and was all set to use it until I talked to Tess Neilson. She told me that the treatment works, but it the blade is left with a film on the blade that potential customers don't seem to like. I don't make knives to be sold, however I still have not used it yet.
 
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