Hotwax Leather

[k_estela]

During the peak of Roman civilization, it was not uncommon to see armor made out of hotwaxed leather. This leather was not supple or soft but hardened and a better defense against a blade than bare skin alone. Over time, other civilizations picked up this technique and it helped make leather more resistant to moisture and abuse. Though time has passed, the method of producing hot waxed leather is virtually unchanged. Heat leather to open the pores then expose to melted beeswax and polish smooth. If you wish to have a more durable and water resistant sheath or one more resistant to accidentally cutting follow this quick tutorial how to hotwax and achieve the same results. I'm using pure beeswax to treat my edge cover for my Gransfors Bruks mini-hatchet.

Step 1, you'll need the following. Beeswax, toothbrush, a container to melt wax in, pot with water and some old rags

Step 2, melt beeswax in an old pot and preheat your oven to anywhere between 225 degrees to 300. You won't be cooking your leather, just warming it.

Step 3, put your leather in the oven to open the pores. You can also use a hair dryer or heat gun but the oven works best in my opinion. About 5 to 10 minutes is sufficient.

Step 4, coat your leather with as much beeswax as it can take. Don't worry if it dries on the leather. You will be placing it back in the oven shortly.

Step 5, place your beeswax covered sheath or axe cover in this case back in the oven. This will help the leather soak up all the beeswax. Don't remove it from the oven until the wax all melts.

Step 6, make sure both sides of your sheath are coated. Careful touching any exposed metal parts as they will be hot from the oven. Place back in the oven.

Step 7, remove your sheath from the oven and attempt to put more wax on it. Recoat as much as necessary. Handle with care. The leather will appear damp and much darker during the process.

Step 8, use an old rag to handle the sheath. You can better shape it to the contours of the blade this way.

Step 9, you can use a synthetic cloth to polish the leather and buff it to a better shine. I use an old synthetic running shirt and it really makes it smooth and brings it to a nice finish.

Remember, when hotwaxing, you will likely change the color of your leather. If you can live with the change, you'll end up with one hell of a durable sheath. If it was good enough for the gladiators, beeswaxed leather is good enough for me!

 

[Chris_Norden]

Nice one. I do this too but replace the oven with a heat gun. I'll have to try the oven next time.

Chris

 

[untamed]

Cool and very INFORMATIVE article!

 

[bushman14]

Would it be any more effective to immerse the sheath in the wax? Let it soak for a bit? I am curious because in some old books on armor I have read, the ancient greeks also used what was referred to as "boiled leather" boiled in either wax or oil. Does that make it TOO hard?

 

[m. wohlwend]

I have used an old crock pot for years to heat candle wax, pariffin, and neats foot oil. I then drop the sheath in and submerge it. If the wax is too hot or leather left in too long it WILL ruin the sheath. A quick dip in and hot is best and use a wire to handle the sheath...

 

[Bushman5]

great pics! \


I use the full immersion in hot beeswax method...let it soak, pull it out, buff the leather dry.

 

[rayban]

great pics! \


I use the full immersion in hot beeswax method...let it soak, pull it out, buff the leather dry.

You wet form the sheath b4 you immerse, correct? Should you let it dry completely first?
Is there access wax to let drip off after you immerse? Do you scrape it off with something?
Does the wax in the inside of the sheath keep scraping off on the blade?

 

[Rick Marchand]

If your wax is hot enough and the sheath is preheated... dipping works well. I keep everything at about 160F and can let even 3-4oz leather soak with no distortion. You are entering the danger zone at 180F. 10-13oz can take the heat but anything less will begin to deform.

My mixture is (in order of quantity, most to least)

Beeswax
Raw Linseed Oil
Pine Pitch
Honey
Tea Tree oil

The more oil you add, the more supple the leather will be. Using a heavy paraffin mix will turn your leather into wood!

 

[Diomedes Industries]

Rick,

Is this the wax mixture you use to get those silky smooth legs too?

TF

 

[MrCoffee]

Ok, stupid question: Can this be done to other materials other then leather? Canvas? Etc.

 

[Sparljo]

I don't think thats a stupid question.

My first thoughts are that it wouldn't work with canvas.... but I am curious as to what would happen.

Epoxy could be applied to canvas to make it rock solid if that is the goal.

 

[Diomedes Industries]

I know you can buy 'Wax coated canvas' but I am not sure if they mean actual wax - or another compound.

TF

 

[Col. Cornelius]

Howdy,

I have a rifle scabbard that someone hot waxed incorrectly.

The waxing ruined the scabbard. It is hard as a rock/wood. You can actually knock on it. I tried to soften it up by warming in the sun and applying neatsfoot oil, but it did not soften at all. In the warmth of the sun, it start to behave right, but as soon as it cools to room temp, hard as a rock.

It actually damages the finish on a rifle taking it in and out of the scabbard because it is so hard and stiff.



Thanks for showing the correct way to wax leather for an axe sheath.

 

[k_estela]

Thanks for all the added comments. I should add the sheath doesn't reach the full heat of the oven. I just use it at this heat for convenience.Quickly in and out doesn't damage the leather.

Magnussen, that is a real old combo dip. Haven't heard too many people using pine pitch but the old timers swear by it.

 

[CWL]

Ok, stupid question: Can this be done to other materials other then leather? Canvas? Etc.

Not stupid since the Greeks also made armor out of hardened layered linen. It was good enough to stop a spear thrust. Probably had similar capabilities to kevlar and spectra material.

I think that there is a great difference between ancient armor and modern leather sheaths since leather cuirass' needed to be very stiff so it would also resist blunt force while modern sheaths need to retain some flexibility. Directly following old formulas for leather armor probably wouldn't give the best results for a sheath.

Some of the best sheaths I have were made by NWA using good leather and pure beeswax. They have a 'kydex' feel to them, but still retain some qualities of leather.

 

[Bushman5]

You wet form the sheath b4 you immerse, correct? Should you let it dry completely first?
Is there access wax to let drip off after you immerse? Do you scrape it off with something?
Does the wax in the inside of the sheath keep scraping off on the blade?

no i just dip it in the melted wax (sometimes with pitch added too) then remove, fling off the hot excess wax, put the ax head into the sheath and then buff it dry and shiny. It forms itself nicely to the shape of the axehead, and the excess wax INSIDE the sheath protects the stitching and welt nicely form damage.

 

[Gossman Knives]

Thanks for that tutitoral Kev. I'll have to give that a try. BTW, where did you get the chunk of beeswax?
Scott

 

[wintermute]

I click on "Hotwax Leather" and all I saw was a bunch of hatchet photos? What's the deal?

Thanks for the tutorial Kev! I have a wimpy Wetterlings sheath that needs some toughening up.

 

[k_estela]

Joezilla gave me that chunk of beeswax years ago.

 

[samhain73]

You can get beeswax at any craft store, or even a hardware store. + It's what toilet wax plugs are made of.