How do you feel about overtravel?

The problem, as has been stated is the height of the kick. :D It can be adjusted either way, up by filing the bottom of the kick if the blade sits to high or down if the blade is hitting the back spring, as in this case. If you place the tang on the edge of an anvil, vice or something else that is hard and stable then take a flat nosed punch, placing it towards the bottom of the kick and hit it with a hammer. By smashing the tang sideways it elongates the very end where it rests on the backspring. You will have to experiment with how much force, how big a hammer to use in order to get the required results, I personally start out with less force and work my way up until the blade no longer hits the backspring. BUT by moving the height of the kick, in either direction you are also changing where the backspring sits in the closed position!!

Dave
 
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It is a very annoying problem to me. I don't like removing any more steel from the edge than I have to for a very sharp clean apex. It's really a pretty easy fix, I just don't like doing it.

My current carry is an old imperial, the main blade hit in two spots and I took the edge back a little. It wasn't enough after repeated closings. Next time I sharpen the knife I will remove the problem once and for all.
 
knowtracks said:
The problem, as has been stated is the height of the kick. :D It can be adjusted either way, up by filing the bottom of the kick if the blade sits to high or down if the blade is hitting the back spring, as in this case. If you place the tang on the edge of an anvil, vice or something else that is hard and stable then take a flat nosed punch, placing it towards the bottom of the kick and stick it with a hammer. By smashing the tang sideways it elongates the very end where it rests on the backspring. You will have to experiment with how much force, how big a hammer to use in order to get the required results, I personally start out with less force and work my way up until the blade no longer hits the backspring. BUT by moving the height of the kick, in either direction you are also changing where the backspring sits in the closed position!!

Dave
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Thanks for providing a detailed explanation on how to do it I've seen references to this procedure before, but no instructions.
 
Carboniferous said:
Hearing so many people resolve the problem with sharpening does give me a bit of hope that it will resolve itself. I've sharpened the dull spot out three times now and it still strikes, but I've been removing as little metal each time as I can so maybe it just needs a bit more.

The knife is a Queen teardrop, I don't know if it's typical for the pattern or if I just got unlucky. Can't return the knife now since I've messed with the edge, and if the solution is to grind away at the edge then I'd honestly rather not let Queen do it (not that it's an option either way at this point).
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Don't think sending it back to Queen is going to be on the cards now, unfortunately...

My BEM Queen Teardrop really sits low in the frame, rather too much as the nail nick's almost inaccessible and I don't have Jeff's skills or tools to remedy it.

The overtravel thing doesn't bother me much, if I have a knife with it I just close it with caution. Mind you, who doesn't like hearing a good thwack as part of the music of W&T ? :D:cool:

Regards, Will
 
neal70 said:
Idk if this was already said specifically, but I’ve read here of folks using the tiniest, thin strip of leather, similarly to the rubber mentioned above, to cushion the blade. Where does it rap?(hit the spring?).
Thanks, Neal
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Leather will certainly work, I’d be a little worried about moisture sitting in the leather and causing corrosion however. Plus many have had issue with knife slips causing corrosion due to the tanning treatment. I’ve got a bunch of recycled rubber mats, got them from work a few years back. They were anti slip mats used to stop pallets from sliding in trailers. Turns out they are the perfect thickness to just cut a sliver and press in between the liners and they stay put. I’d be happy to mail a small piece to anyone that is in need and cant find a suitable solution. An envelope sized piece would be enough for like 100 knives!
 
Well I sharpened it a bit more and still got a bit of spring strike, so I took the advice to put a small strip of rubber down against the spring and the problem . If I don't let it snap open I don't even see a mark on the rubber, if I let it snap closed I see where the blade makes contact but the blade has no damage. I'm going to continue closing it gently . . . most of the time anyway, as the blade is going to cut through the rubber before long, but this will save the edge from the occasional full snap.

black mamba said:
It is a fairly common occurrence with the Queen teardrop. One of the great features of the pattern is the low-lying blade, so it seems to be a tradeoff. Sharpening has always corrected the situation for me, with little noticeable blade loss. One of mine sits so low in the frame that I put a little notch in the cover to access the nick.

TyZbrRj.jpg
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Yes, that's a good point. The low-lying blade really does add to the look of the knife, and I guess they figured having to close the knife with two hands was a fair compromise. That little notch on yours looks great!


knowtracks said:
The problem, as has been stated is the height of the kick. :D It can be adjusted either way, up by filing the bottom of the kick if the blade sits to high or down if the blade is hitting the back spring, as in this case. If you place the tang on the edge of an anvil, vice or something else that is hard and stable then take a flat nosed punch, placing it towards the bottom of the kick and hit it with a hammer. By smashing the tang sideways it elongates the very end where it rests on the backspring. You will have to experiment with how much force, how big a hammer to use in order to get the required results, I personally start out with less force and work my way up until the blade no longer hits the backspring. BUT by moving the height of the kick, in either direction you are also changing where the backspring sits in the closed position!!

Dave
Click to expand...

Thanks for explaining that method, it sounds reasonable but I see two possible issues:

1. Can you introduce play in the lock/blade doing this?
2. The spring is perfectly flush in the closed position and peening the tang would result, as you mentioned, in the spring riding high.

For now, I think a strip of rubber inside the handle is what I'll stick with, not ideal but I really like this knife.
 
Again I could be wrong :D(very good points about the leather, btw:rolleyes:), but high springs will eventually sink, albeit with lots of use. I think. But I’m wrong lots. Wife can and will confirm;)
Thanks, Neal
 
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