How do you finish wood handles?

childzplay said:
I'd like to cast my vote for a sticky! Just when I'm in awe of Backwoods, Bruce shows up. Two questions, the first is what is the handle material on the third picture from Backwoods? It looks like a flame. Second is how did Mr. Bump get that texture on his handle? Amazing! Nathan, I'm glad you showed too. I'm a big fan!
Click to expand...

The 3rd one from Backwoods is cactus impregnated with colored epoxy.

The texture on the Bruce Bump handle is called checkering. It is cut into the wood using checkering files. That is an art in and of itself usually done by talented gunstock makers.
 
childzplay said:
i'd like to cast my vote for a sticky! Just when i'm in awe of backwoods, bruce shows up. Two questions, the first is what is the handle material on the third picture from backwoods? It looks like a flame. Second is how did mr. Bump get that texture on his handle? Amazing! Nathan, i'm glad you showed too. I'm a big fan!
Click to expand...

the third pic is of some intense dyed stabilized cactus! I hav mor pics in a copper color and black and white if you would like to see! Thanks bill
 
Burl Source said:
The 3rd one from Backwoods is cactus impregnated with colored epoxy.

The texture on the Bruce Bump handle is called checkering. It is cut into the wood using checkering files. That is an art in and of itself usually done by talented gunstock makers.
Click to expand...

(The texture on the Bruce Bump handle is called checkering. It is cut into the wood using checkering files. That is an art in and of itself usually done by talented gunstock makers. )

HE IS AN ARTIST,IN HIS OWN WORLD!!! NICE BRUCE
 
Well I don't know that I'm qualified to be called out with those other guys, but since you went and put my name in there I better step up to the plate. :eek: :)

I hand sand Ironwood with a hard backed surface (usually a steel sanding stick) up to 1000 grit. Then I move onto 1200 and 2000 grit with a hard rubber block. I actually have several different blocks for getting into whatever area I'm trying to reach.

After 2,000X, I've tried several different methods.... the 3M micropolishing paper is something I've been messing with lately.

But my old standby is to take it to 2000X and it has to be CLEAN. Meaning I sand one direction and then switch directions with the next grit. I don't want a 2000x finish with some 320 scratches hiding somewhere.

Anyway, once it's at 2000X, I do a REALLY REALLY light and quick buff with a semi-hard sewn wheel and white rouge. I'm talking a matter of seconds for the entire knife handle... just skimming over it lightly. If you buff it very hard, you'll either smear the grain, or get an orange peel type of finish.

Finally I like to hand rub a couple coats of wax into the wood with my bare fingers....let it dry to a haze and then buff it with a flannel cloth.

Some blocks of Ironwood only seem to smear with buffing, and then you have to buff them by hand.
 
BTW- If you really look at Nathan's pics... his Ironwood looks just as clean and vibrant as you can get it. THAT'S what you should be shooting for (IMH) O) :)
 
Johnson's paste wax... you can get it almost anywhere. I know my local hardware store sells it, Lowes, Home Depot, etc. :)
 
I know the mods probably don't want a full page of stickies, so they're kinda picky. But I would also vote to "Sticky" this thread. Some of the best in the business are represented here; thank you, gentlemen!
 
According to Paul Valere, an artist never finishes his work, he simply abandons it....

I'm sorry, I've been trying NOT to post that for 2 days!

All I've ever finished is dense hardwoods, but I really like hand-rubbed tung oil. Slather it on, let it set up for a day, sand back to wood, repeat. It takes a few coats and a long time but it makes an amazingly durable finish. My uncle carved custom gun stocks, and this was his method.
 
Wow. Thanks for the tremendous compliment, Nick. From what I've seen online and in person, I'd put your handle finish up against anyone's.

I've picked up some renaissance wax I think I'm going to try out on future hardwood handles.

--nathan
 
I will step up mark im sure theres many ways, ive always used "thin" ca glue, i hold the block or scales in an up and down position,starting at the top i squirt the glue on and let it run to the bottom,then shoot it with accelerator to harden it immediatly,go to the 4x36 with some 240 grit sand it off smooth and repeat the step again,then sand with 400 grit to make sure all the voids and porus spots are filled & sealed,just my way im sure there is other ways this is one of those thing everyone does diffrent and has opinions on,this is jsut mine,you see how my finnish turns out:>
 
Last edited:
Burl Source said:
Is there anyone willing to post how they fill and finish voids, bark pockets or open eyes.
Click to expand...

I sand it with coarse sandpaper and leave the sanding dust in the cracks as filled as possible and dribble the super glue in. The dust becomes solid and appears to be a smaller crack or void. Its almost a neccesity when working mammoth tooth. I have went so far as to catch the ivory dust in a clean paper towell and packed it into the cracks. Is that cheating? :eek:
 
bruce bump said:
i sand it with coarse sandpaper and leave the sanding dust in the cracks as filled as possible and dribble the super glue in. The dust becomes solid and appears to be a smaller crack or void. Its almost a neccesity when working mammoth tooth. I have went so far as to catch the ivory dust in a clean paper towell and packed it into the cracks. Is that cheating? :eek:
Click to expand...


cheating,hmmmm? Nah i do it too, on tooth if i have a void gap,or crack,i use my cut off scrap, i fill the gap with ca leave it wet and hold the handle behind my disk sander and sand the scrap right on the glue shoot it with acelerator and resand it when it hardENs!,i guess every lil trick works!
 
Can someone please tell me what kind of wood is pictured in bacustomknives first post. The ones I'm looking to find out about are the first three and the fifth. Thanks
 
quick kill said:
can someone please tell me what kind of wood is pictured in bacustomknives first post. The ones i'm looking to find out about are the first three and the fifth. Thanks
Click to expand...

1st pic--dyed stabilized box elder burl
3rd pic- inpregnated dyed cactus
5th pic- dyed stabilized box elder burl
 
OK, can I go "low brow" for a second? Do the same general finishing suggestions above also apply to simple red oak or white oak (I also have some amazing walnut with incredible marbling/grain) on kitchen knives that get wet on a regular basis? I have made these knives - paring knives, 8" chef's knives, etc - for a few years. I keep the mistakes and give away the others to friends, family members, charity auctions, etc. Nice, functional knives in 440C, but light years away from the photos pictured above. I enjoy it and keep improving my skills. Anyway, I have noticed that my oak handles are getting pretty weathered looking after only 6 months to a year - thus my searching through this thread. We only hand wash the knives. I will not embarrass myself in telling you how I finished those handles. I am grinding bevels on another batch of paring knives right now and wanted to get ideas to make the finish last longer on this batch. Thanks in advance!
 
Burl Source said:
I was hoping some of the makers who are really good at finishing wood handles might share some of their techniques for finishing wood handles. There is not one method that works for all woods. Sometimes a method of finishing one wood that gives spectacular results will look just mediocre with another type of wood.
If enough of you post how you finish your wood handles, we should all be able to pick up a tip or two that will help us to get a better finish on our knife handles.

Some of the makers that come to mind are:
Butch Harner with stabilized Buckeye
Russ Andrews with Ringed Gidgee
Nick Wheeler with Ironwood Burl
Nathan Burgess with Ironwood Burl
Phillip Dobson with Maple Burl
Bruce Bump with Walnut
Fred Rowe with just about anything stabilized
Bill Akers with the bizarre stuff
These are just a few that jump to the forefront of my thoughts. There are a lot of others who are really good with these woods so please don't take offense if you are better than those I gave as examples. There will be a lot of you that I don't know about because I haven't seen many photos.

Lots of times it will be just one or 2 simple things that make a world of difference. Example some woods will have a smeared or muddy look when power buffed but will be 3 dimensional and crisp when hand buffed.

This should be a good source of info for all knifemakers if enough of you will share how you do things.

Thanks in advance, Mark
Click to expand...
I've noticed that no one is commenting on minwax wood hardener. Great stuff ! Deep penetration ,super hard, won't rub off, sandable- polishable. Just work fast!
 
Joshua Tree Forge said:
I've noticed that no one is commenting on minwax wood hardener. Great stuff ! Deep penetration ,super hard, won't rub off, sandable- polishable. Just work fast!
Click to expand...

First, thread necromany "commenting on very old threads" is generally not advised.

Second, miniwax wood hardener is a poor substitute for professional stabilizing, the monomer compound is of a low grade, and the curing is slow and often fails leading to product weeping. The low intramolecular forces also mean that capillary action will only pull the liquid in a short way, resulting in incomplete penetration.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top